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Aeonium (Aeonium arboreum)

Aeonium

Aeonium arboreum · Crassulaceae

Easy Toxic to pets

Aeonium arboreum is a succulent subshrub native to the Canary Islands, particularly Tenerife, where it grows on rocky slopes and coastal cliffs. It forms striking rosettes of glossy, spoon-shaped leaves atop branching woody stems that can reach 90 cm or more indoors. It is widely grown as a houseplant and patio specimen for its architectural form and tolerance of mild neglect.

☀ Light
Bright indirect to full sun
💧 Water
Infrequent; allow soil to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
10 to 27 C
💦 Humidity
Low; tolerates dry air well
🌿 Soil
Free-draining cactus or succulent compost
🍽 Feeding
Monthly, spring and autumn only

Photo: Hedwig Storch / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Aeonium

Light

Aeonium arboreum thrives in bright light and will tolerate several hours of direct sun, particularly morning sun. A south- or west-facing windowsill is ideal indoors. Insufficient light causes the rosettes to become loose and etiolated, and the stems to lean strongly towards the light source. Unlike many succulents, aeoniums are winter growers and appreciate the brightest available light during the cooler months.

Watering

Water moderately during the active growing season in autumn through spring, allowing the top half of the compost to dry out between waterings. During summer dormancy, reduce watering significantly, giving just enough to prevent the leaves from shrivelling. Overwatering, especially in warm weather or poorly drained compost, is the most common cause of failure; always empty saucers after watering and never let the roots sit in standing water.

Soil and potting

Use a gritty, free-draining compost such as a proprietary cactus and succulent mix, or create your own by combining two parts peat-free multipurpose compost with one part horticultural grit or perlite. Good drainage is essential; heavy, moisture-retentive compost will cause root rot. Terracotta pots are preferable to plastic as they allow excess moisture to escape through the pot wall.

Feeding

Feed with a balanced, diluted liquid fertiliser at half strength once a month during the active growing period, broadly from September through to May. Avoid feeding during summer dormancy. A fertiliser formulated for cacti and succulents is suitable, as its lower nitrogen content reduces the risk of soft, weak growth.

Humidity and temperature

Aeonium arboreum tolerates the low humidity typical of centrally heated homes without difficulty. It prefers temperatures between 10 and 27 C and does not like prolonged exposure to temperatures below 5 C, though brief frost will damage it severely. In the UK it can be moved outdoors to a sheltered, sunny spot from late May to early September, but must be brought in before the first frost. Avoid placing it near radiators or heat vents, which can cause desiccation.

Repotting

Repot every two to three years in spring, or when roots visibly fill the pot or emerge from the drainage holes. Choose a new pot only one size larger, as aeoniums are somewhat tolerant of being slightly root-bound and oversized pots retain too much moisture. After repotting, wait one week before watering to allow any damaged roots to callous over.

Pruning

Pruning is not strictly necessary but can improve the plant's appearance and encourage bushier growth. Leggy stems can be cut back by one-third to one-half in early autumn. Individual rosettes can be removed and propagated. After flowering, the rosette that produced the flower spike will die; cut it away cleanly at the stem to allow side shoots to fill the space. Always use clean, sharp scissors or a knife to avoid introducing disease.

Is Aeonium toxic?

Pets: Mildly toxic. The ASPCA lists Aeonium arboreum as non-toxic to dogs and cats; however, some sources suggest mild gastrointestinal irritation is possible if large quantities are ingested. As a precaution, it is advisable to keep the plant out of reach of pets that habitually chew houseplants.
People: Not known to be toxic to humans; however, as with all houseplants, ingestion of any part is not recommended, and sap may cause mild skin irritation in sensitive individuals.

Common problems

Wilting or mushy stems at the base
Likely cause: Root or stem rot caused by overwatering, particularly during summer dormancy  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, cut away all blackened or mushy roots and stems, dust cuts with powdered cinnamon or fungicide, and allow to dry for 24 hours before repotting in fresh, dry, gritty compost. Hold off watering for one week.
Rosettes opening up loosely and stems stretching towards light
Likely cause: Insufficient light, a common problem on dim windowsills or in winter  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position, ideally a south- or west-facing windowsill. Leggy stems will not revert but can be cut back; new growth will be more compact in better light.
Leaves shrivelling or dropping
Likely cause: Either underwatering during the growing season or the plant entering normal summer dormancy  Fix: Check the calendar and soil moisture. If it is spring or autumn and the compost is completely dry, water thoroughly. If it is midsummer, some leaf drop is normal; maintain minimal watering.
White, cottony deposits in leaf axils
Likely cause: Mealybugs feeding on plant sap  Fix: Remove visible bugs with a cotton bud dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol, then treat the whole plant with an insecticidal soap spray or neem oil solution. Repeat every seven to ten days for a month.
Yellowing lower leaves falling from stems
Likely cause: Natural ageing of lower leaves, which is normal, or overwatering if yellowing is widespread  Fix: If only the lowest leaves are affected, this is normal and no action is needed. If yellowing is widespread, review watering frequency and check for root rot.
Brown, crispy leaf tips
Likely cause: Low humidity combined with heat, or direct midday summer sun scorching the foliage  Fix: Move the plant away from intense midday sun and ensure it is not positioned directly above a radiator. The damaged leaf tips will not recover but can be trimmed for appearance.

How to propagate

Stem cuttings

Cut a healthy rosette with 5 to 8 cm of stem using a clean, sharp knife, allow the cut end to callous in a dry location for 24 to 48 hours, then insert into barely moist, gritty compost. Roots typically develop within four to six weeks at around 18 to 20 C; avoid overwatering during this period.

Offsets

Mature plants produce side shoots or offsets at the base of stems; these can be cut away from the parent plant with a sharp knife once they are a few centimetres tall and have their own rosette, then treated as stem cuttings and potted individually.

Seed

Sow fresh seed on the surface of moist, gritty compost in spring, do not cover, and maintain a temperature of around 21 C. Germination is slow and variable, and seedlings take several years to reach a presentable size; this method is rarely used by hobbyists but is of interest to collectors seeking specific cultivars.

Where Aeonium comes from

Native to Canary Islands, Madeira, Morocco, Cape Verde.

Story and origins

The genus name Aeonium is derived from the ancient Greek word 'aionios', meaning eternal or everlasting, a reference to the plant's succulent nature and apparent ability to survive drought and adverse conditions. The specific epithet 'arboreum' comes from the Latin 'arbor', meaning tree, describing the plant's characteristic tree-like, branching woody stem that distinguishes it from lower-growing rosette succulents in the same genus.

Aeonium arboreum was first formally described and named by Philip Miller in his influential work 'The Gardeners Dictionary' in 1768, though European botanists had encountered Canarian succulents considerably earlier during Spanish colonisation of the Canary Islands in the 15th and 16th centuries. The plant was introduced to European gardens as a curiosity and ornamental specimen plant, valued for its exotic, architectural appearance. It became a popular conservatory and cool greenhouse subject in Victorian Britain, and by the 20th century it had naturalised in mild parts of western Europe, Australia and California. The dark-leaved cultivar 'Zwartkop', whose name is Afrikaans for black head, became one of the most commercially successful succulent cultivars of the late 20th century, widely associated with contemporary architectural planting design.

Varieties to know

Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop'

One of the most popular cultivars, with deep burgundy to near-black rosettes that intensify in colour in bright light; also sold as 'Schwarzkopf'.

Aeonium arboreum 'Atropurpureum'

Similar to 'Zwartkop' but with dark reddish-purple rather than black rosettes; slightly more tolerant of lower light levels.

Aeonium arboreum var. holochrysum

A green-leaved botanical variety with bright yellow-green rosettes; less widely available than the purple cultivars.

Aeonium arboreum 'Albovariegatum'

A variegated form with creamy white and green striped leaves; slower growing than the standard species.

Fun facts

Aeonium FAQ

Why are my aeonium's rosettes closing up and looking tight during summer?
This is a normal and protective response to heat and drought during summer dormancy. Aeoniums close their rosettes to reduce water loss when temperatures are high and water is scarce. Resume normal watering in early autumn when cooler temperatures return and the plant will open up and resume active growth.
Can I grow Aeonium arboreum outdoors in the UK?
In most of the UK it is best grown outdoors only in summer, brought in before the first frost. In very mild, sheltered locations such as the Isles of Scilly, coastal Cornwall, and parts of Ireland and west Wales, it can survive outside year-round, but even there a hard winter can kill it. It is not reliably hardy below about 5 C.
My aeonium has flowered. What do I do now?
Once the rosette finishes flowering it will die back naturally, which is normal. Cut the spent flower spike and dead rosette away cleanly at the stem. Side shoots or offsets around the base will fill in and the plant will continue to grow. You can use the healthy offsets as cuttings for propagation.
How do I keep my 'Zwartkop' aeonium dark purple or black?
The dark colouration of 'Zwartkop' and similar purple cultivars is most intense in bright, direct light. In low light conditions the leaves will revert to a greener or brownish colour. Place the plant in the sunniest available spot for the deepest colour, ideally with several hours of direct sunlight per day.
My aeonium is getting very tall and leggy with bare stems. What should I do?
This is natural as the plant matures, but legginess is often accelerated by insufficient light. You can cut the rosette stems back by up to half their length in early autumn; the stems will produce new side shoots, creating a bushier plant. The cut rosettes can be propagated as stem cuttings.
How often should I water my aeonium in winter?
Winter is the active growing season for aeoniums, so water more regularly than in summer, but still only when the top layer of compost has dried out. In a cool room (around 10 to 15 C) this may mean watering every two to three weeks. In a warm, centrally heated room you may need to water slightly more often, but always check the compost first rather than watering on a fixed schedule.
Is Aeonium arboreum safe to keep around cats and dogs?
The ASPCA does not list Aeonium arboreum as toxic to cats or dogs. However, individual animals may experience mild stomach upset if they eat significant quantities of any houseplant material. As a precaution, it is sensible to keep the plant out of reach of pets that regularly chew plants.