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Aglaonema Red (Aglaonema Siam Aurora)

Aglaonema Red

Aglaonema Siam Aurora · Araceae

Easy Toxic to pets Low-light tolerant

Aglaonema 'Siam Aurora', commonly sold as Aglaonema Red, is a cultivated hybrid of the Chinese Evergreen group, noted for its lance-shaped leaves marked with vivid pink-red margins and green centres. It is one of the more colourful aglaonema cultivars and has become popular as an indoor foliage plant in homes and offices. Despite its striking appearance it is tolerant of low-light conditions and relatively forgiving of irregular care.

☀ Light
Bright indirect light; tolerates low light
💧 Water
Allow top 2-3 cm of soil to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
18-27 C
💦 Humidity
Medium to high; 50-70% preferred
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, peat-free multipurpose or aroid mix
🍽 Feeding
Monthly during spring and summer

Photo: Mbigul / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Aglaonema Red

Light

Aglaonema 'Siam Aurora' performs best in bright, indirect light, which encourages the most vivid pink-red colouration in its leaves. It will tolerate low light better than many houseplants, though the red pigmentation may fade and growth will slow noticeably. Direct sunlight, particularly through south-facing glass, should be avoided as it scorches the foliage. An east- or north-facing windowsill, or a position a metre or so back from a bright south- or west-facing window, is typically ideal.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top 2-3 cm of compost has dried out, then allow excess water to drain freely from the pot. In autumn and winter, reduce watering frequency as growth slows. Aglaonemas are sensitive to both overwatering, which causes root rot, and to fluoride and chlorine in tap water, which can cause brown leaf tips. Using room-temperature filtered or rainwater, or leaving tap water to stand overnight before use, is advisable.

Soil and potting

A well-draining, moisture-retentive compost is ideal. A mix of good-quality peat-free multipurpose compost combined with perlite or coarse grit in roughly a 2:1 ratio works well. Dedicated aroid mixes are also suitable. The key requirement is that the mix does not become waterlogged, as the roots are prone to rot in poorly aerated, compacted compost.

Feeding

Feed once a month during the growing season from April to September using a balanced liquid fertiliser diluted to half the recommended strength. Aglaonemas are not heavy feeders and overfeeding causes salt build-up in the compost, which leads to brown leaf tips. Do not feed during autumn and winter when the plant is resting.

Humidity and temperature

This cultivar prefers moderate to high humidity, ideally between 50 and 70 per cent. In centrally heated homes with dry air, humidity can be increased by grouping plants together, placing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, or using a room humidifier. Misting is a common practice but has limited lasting effect and can encourage fungal issues if air circulation is poor. Temperatures between 18 and 27 C are ideal; the plant should never be exposed to temperatures below 13 C or to cold draughts, as chilling causes rapid leaf damage.

Repotting

Repot every two to three years in spring when the plant has become root-bound, moving it into a pot one size larger. Aglaonemas do not object to slightly restricted roots and are not in a hurry to be repotted. Use fresh compost each time and handle the roots gently, as they are somewhat brittle. Terracotta pots are beneficial as they allow the compost to dry more evenly.

Pruning

Little pruning is required. Remove any yellowing or damaged leaves by cutting them cleanly at the base of their petiole with clean scissors or a blade. If the plant produces a flower spathe, which is inconspicuous and similar to that of other aroids, it is best removed promptly as it drains energy the plant could direct into foliage. Leggy older stems can be cut back in spring to encourage bushier growth, though this is seldom necessary in younger plants.

Is Aglaonema Red toxic?

Pets: Toxic. Contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to cats and dogs according to ASPCA classifications. Ingestion causes oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. The sap can also irritate the skin and eyes of both animals and humans.
People: The sap is an irritant; contact with skin or eyes should be avoided and hands should be washed after handling. Ingestion by children can cause mouth and throat irritation. The plant should be kept out of reach of children and pets.

Common problems

Yellow leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged compost leading to root rot  Fix: Allow compost to partially dry before watering again; check drainage holes are clear; if root rot is present, remove rotten roots and repot into fresh, dry compost.
Brown leaf tips
Likely cause: Low humidity, fluoride or chlorine sensitivity from tap water, or fertiliser salt build-up  Fix: Use filtered or rainwater; flush compost occasionally to remove salt build-up; increase ambient humidity; reduce fertiliser concentration.
Pale or faded leaf colour
Likely cause: Insufficient light, particularly for the red pigmentation  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with more indirect light, avoiding direct sun.
Drooping or wilting leaves
Likely cause: Either underwatering or overwatering; also cold draughts or temperatures below 13 C  Fix: Check compost moisture; water if dry, or allow to dry if wet; move away from draughts or cold windowsills.
Brown or mushy stem base
Likely cause: Root or stem rot caused by chronic overwatering  Fix: Remove affected tissue, treat with a fungicide if available, allow compost to dry, and repot if necessary; consider taking stem cuttings from healthy growth.
Sticky residue or visible insects on leaves
Likely cause: Infestation by mealybugs, spider mites, or scale insects  Fix: Wipe leaves with a damp cloth or cotton wool soaked in isopropyl alcohol; treat with neem oil or an insecticidal soap spray; repeat weekly until the infestation is resolved.

How to propagate

Stem cuttings

Take a healthy stem cutting of 10-15 cm with at least two nodes and allow the cut end to callous for an hour before placing it in water or moist compost. Roots typically develop within four to six weeks in warm conditions.

Division

When repotting, separate offsets or basal shoots that have developed their own root systems from the parent plant and pot them individually into fresh compost. This is the most reliable method and causes minimal stress to the plant.

Seed

Seeds can be collected from the berries produced after flowering, though germination is slow and variable, and seedlings rarely resemble the parent cultivar reliably. Division or cuttings are strongly preferred for propagating named cultivars.

Where Aglaonema Red comes from

Native to southern China, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Philippines, northeastern India.

Story and origins

The genus name Aglaonema derives from the Greek words 'aglaos', meaning bright or clear, and 'nema', meaning thread or filament, referring to the conspicuous stamens of the flowers. The cultivar name 'Siam Aurora' reflects its origins in Thailand (historically Siam) and 'aurora', the Latin word for dawn, alluding to the rosy-red colouration of its foliage. The common name Chinese Evergreen reflects both the plant's broad Asian distribution and its evergreen nature as a houseplant.

Aglaonema species are native to the tropical and subtropical forests of South and Southeast Asia and have been grown as ornamental plants in China, Japan, and across Southeast Asia for many centuries, long before they became popular in Western horticulture. The genus was first formally described by the German botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott in 1829. Colourful hybrids such as Siam Aurora were developed primarily by Thai horticulturalists in the latter decades of the twentieth century, who created a wide range of pink and red-leaved cultivars by selective breeding. These cultivars reached mainstream European and American houseplant markets in the early 2000s and rapidly became popular due to their unusual colouration combined with tolerance of indoor conditions.

Varieties to know

Aglaonema 'Red Anjamani'

A similar red-leafed cultivar with deeper, more uniform red colouration across the leaf surface.

Aglaonema 'Creta'

Features vivid pink-red leaves with narrow green margins, offering a more intense overall colour than Siam Aurora.

Aglaonema 'Wishes'

A cultivar with predominantly red-pink foliage and minimal green patterning, popular for its bold appearance.

Aglaonema 'Silver Bay'

A contrasting cultivar with silvery-green variegation rather than red colouration, widely grown for offices.

Aglaonema 'Cutlass'

A green-and-silver cultivar with long, narrow leaves, useful for comparison with the broader, coloured forms.

Fun facts

Aglaonema Red FAQ

Why are my Aglaonema Red's leaves turning green?
The red and pink pigmentation in this cultivar intensifies in brighter indirect light. If the plant is moved to a lower-light position, chlorophyll production increases and the leaves will gradually become more green. Moving the plant closer to a bright, indirect light source should restore the colour over several weeks.
How often should I water my Aglaonema Red?
There is no fixed schedule; water when the top 2-3 cm of compost has dried out. In a warm room during summer this may be every seven to ten days, while in winter watering every two to three weeks may be sufficient. Always check the compost rather than watering to a calendar.
Is Aglaonema Red safe for cats and dogs?
No. Aglaonema contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals and is listed as toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA. Ingestion causes oral irritation, excessive drooling, and vomiting. Keep the plant out of reach of pets.
Can I grow Aglaonema Red in a room with no natural light?
It can survive in very low light but will grow slowly, and the distinctive red colouration will fade significantly as the leaves produce more chlorophyll to compensate for low light. A fluorescent or full-spectrum LED grow light can supplement natural light effectively if no window light is available.
Why does my Aglaonema Red have brown leaf tips?
Brown tips are most commonly caused by low humidity, sensitivity to fluoride or chlorine in tap water, or excess fertiliser salts in the compost. Try using filtered or rainwater, reduce feeding frequency, and increase humidity around the plant by grouping it with other plants or using a pebble tray.
How do I propagate Aglaonema Red?
The easiest method is division: when repotting, carefully separate rooted offsets from the base of the parent plant and pot them individually. Stem cuttings with at least two nodes can also be rooted in water or moist compost, though this takes longer and the cuttings need warmth and humidity to succeed.
Should I remove the flowers from my Aglaonema Red?
It is generally advisable to remove the flower spathes as soon as they appear. The flowers are inconspicuous and not ornamentally significant, and allowing them to develop and set seed diverts considerable energy from the plant that would otherwise support foliage growth. Cutting them off at the base as soon as they appear keeps the plant looking its best.