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Anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum)

Anthurium

Anthurium andraeanum · Araceae

Moderate Toxic to pets

Anthurium andraeanum is a tropical flowering perennial native to Colombia and Ecuador, widely cultivated as a houseplant for its striking, long-lasting spathes and glossy foliage. The colourful 'flower' is in fact a waxy, modified leaf called a spathe, from which emerges a slender spadix bearing the true tiny flowers. It is one of the most popular flowering houseplants in the UK, valued for its year-round blooming potential under suitable conditions.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light
💧 Water
Allow top 2-3 cm of compost to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
18-28°C
💦 Humidity
High, ideally 60-80%
🌿 Soil
Free-draining, chunky, aroid mix
🍽 Feeding
Balanced or high-phosphorus fertiliser every 4-6 weeks in growing season

Photo: Taken by Fanghong / CC BY 2.5 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Anthurium

Light

Anthurium andraeanum thrives in bright, indirect light, such as that found a metre or so back from an east- or west-facing window. Direct summer sun will scorch the leaves and bleach the spathes, while deep shade suppresses flowering and causes the plant to produce only foliage. A north-facing windowsill is generally too dim unless supplemented with a grow light during winter months.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top 2-3 cm of compost has dried out, then allow excess to drain freely. Anthuriums are susceptible to root rot if left sitting in waterlogged compost, so always empty saucers after 30 minutes. Reduce watering frequency in autumn and winter, when growth slows, but never allow the root ball to dry out completely.

Soil and potting

A loose, well-aerated mix is essential. A blend of two parts perlite or orchid bark to one part peat-free compost works well, as it replicates the plant's epiphytic origins in the wild. Standard houseplant compost used alone is typically too dense and retentive for long-term health.

Feeding

Feed every four to six weeks from spring to early autumn using a balanced liquid fertiliser diluted to half strength, or use a fertiliser with a slightly higher phosphorus content to encourage flowering. Avoid feeding in winter when the plant is resting. Over-fertilising, particularly with excess nitrogen, promotes lush foliage at the expense of blooms and can cause salt build-up that damages roots.

Humidity and temperature

As a tropical species, Anthurium andraeanum prefers temperatures between 18 and 28°C and humidity levels of 60-80%. It will tolerate the drier air of a typical UK home, but growth and flowering are markedly improved when humidity is raised by using a pebble tray filled with water, grouping plants together, or running a room humidifier. Temperatures below 15°C cause chilling stress, while cold draughts and proximity to radiators should both be avoided.

Repotting

Repot every two to three years, or when roots visibly circle the base of the pot or emerge from drainage holes. Choose a pot only one size larger, as too large a container encourages waterlogging. Spring is the best time to repot. Anthurium roots are fleshy and relatively fragile, so handle them gently and use fresh aroid compost to restore drainage and nutrient levels.

Pruning

Pruning requirements are minimal. Remove spent spathes and yellowing leaves at the base using clean, sharp scissors or secateurs. Cutting away old blooms once the spadix has finished producing flowers keeps the plant looking tidy and may encourage new flower development. Always wear gloves when handling the plant, as the sap contains calcium oxalate crystals that irritate skin.

Is Anthurium toxic?

Pets: Toxic. Anthurium andraeanum contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals throughout all parts of the plant, including the leaves, stems, and spathe. According to ASPCA classifications, it is toxic to dogs and cats, causing oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing if chewed or ingested. It is also listed as toxic to horses.
People: The sap causes skin and mucous membrane irritation on contact. Ingestion by children may cause mouth and throat pain, nausea, and swelling. Gloves should be worn when handling the plant, and hands washed thoroughly afterwards.

Common problems

Yellow leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering, waterlogged compost, or natural ageing of lower leaves  Fix: Check soil moisture before each watering; ensure the pot drains freely and the compost is appropriately open. Remove affected leaves cleanly.
Brown leaf tips or edges
Likely cause: Low humidity, exposure to draughts, cold air, or fluoride in tap water  Fix: Increase humidity, move the plant away from draughts and heat sources, and switch to filtered or rainwater for irrigation.
No flowers or poor flowering
Likely cause: Insufficient light, low phosphorus, or pot-bound roots that have been neglected  Fix: Move to a brighter position, supplement feeding with a phosphorus-rich fertiliser, and repot if the plant is severely root-bound.
Root rot
Likely cause: Consistently overwatered compost or poorly draining soil mix  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, trim away blackened or mushy roots with sterile scissors, allow to air briefly, and repot into fresh, free-draining aroid compost.
Spider mites or mealybugs
Likely cause: Low humidity and warm, dry indoor conditions create favourable conditions for these pests  Fix: Treat spider mites by increasing humidity and wiping leaves with a damp cloth or neem oil solution; tackle mealybugs by removing them manually with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol, followed by a neem oil spray.
Pale or bleached spathes
Likely cause: Exposure to direct sunlight  Fix: Move the plant to a position with bright but diffused light, shielded from direct sun rays.

How to propagate

Division

When repotting a mature plant, carefully separate offsets or side shoots that have developed their own roots from the parent plant. Pot each division individually into fresh aroid compost and keep warm and humid until established.

Stem cuttings

Take a cutting with at least two nodes and one aerial root, allow the cut end to callous for an hour, then pot into moist perlite or sphagnum moss. Maintain high humidity and temperatures around 22-25°C until roots develop, typically within four to eight weeks.

Seed

Seeds must be sown fresh, as viability declines rapidly. Press seeds onto the surface of moist sphagnum moss or a fine seed compost, maintain temperatures above 22°C, and keep consistently moist under cover. Germination is slow and seedlings take several years to reach flowering size, making this method impractical for most home growers.

Where Anthurium comes from

Native to Colombia, Ecuador. Now naturalised or cultivated in 3 other regions worldwide.

Story and origins

The genus name Anthurium derives from the Greek words 'anthos', meaning flower, and 'oura', meaning tail, referring to the characteristic tail-like spadix that protrudes from the spathe. The species epithet 'andraeanum' honours Edouard Andre, a French botanist and landscape architect who collected specimens in Colombia during the 1870s and is credited with introducing the species to European horticulture.

Anthurium andraeanum was formally described by the Belgian botanist Jean Jules Linden in 1876, based on material collected in Colombia. Edouard Andre collected living specimens during his South American expeditions and brought them to Europe, where the plant rapidly attracted the attention of horticulturists for its unusual and showy spathes. By the late nineteenth century it was being cultivated in glasshouses across Europe, and formal commercial breeding programmes developed particularly in the Netherlands and Hawaii during the twentieth century, producing the wide range of cultivated colours available today. In its native Colombia, the anthurium has cultural significance and is associated with hospitality and warmth. It remains one of the world's most commercially important cut-flower crops, with the Netherlands, Hawaii, and Costa Rica among the principal producers.

Varieties to know

Anthurium andraeanum 'Alabama'

Produces large, deep red spathes and is among the most commonly available cultivars in the UK.

Anthurium andraeanum 'White Champion'

Bears pure white spathes with a contrasting cream to yellow spadix, valued for its clean, minimal appearance.

Anthurium andraeanum 'Pink Champion'

Produces soft pink spathes and is a popular choice for interior decoration.

Anthurium andraeanum 'Purple Plum'

Offers deep burgundy to purple-toned spathes, less common than red forms but widely admired.

Anthurium andraeanum 'Midori'

Unusual cultivar producing green spathes, making it distinctive among anthurium selections.

Fun facts

Anthurium FAQ

Why is my anthurium not flowering?
The most common reasons are insufficient light, low phosphorus nutrition, or a pot-bound root system. Move the plant to a brighter position away from direct sun, feed with a phosphorus-rich fertiliser during the growing season, and check whether repotting is overdue. Temperatures consistently below 18°C can also suppress flowering.
How often should I water my anthurium?
Water when the top 2-3 cm of compost has dried out, typically every seven to ten days in summer and less frequently in winter. Always water thoroughly so excess drains from the pot, and never leave the pot standing in water, as this leads to root rot.
Is anthurium safe to keep around cats and dogs?
No. Anthurium andraeanum is toxic to cats and dogs according to ASPCA classifications. All parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate crystals, which cause oral pain, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing if chewed or ingested. It should be kept out of reach of pets.
Why are the leaves on my anthurium turning yellow?
Yellowing is most commonly caused by overwatering or waterlogged compost, which starves roots of oxygen. It can also result from direct sunlight, cold draughts, or nutrient deficiency. Check soil moisture levels, ensure drainage is adequate, and review the plant's position before adjusting your watering habits.
What humidity does an anthurium need and how can I provide it indoors?
Anthurium andraeanum prefers humidity of 60-80%. In a typical UK home, this can be increased by placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water (ensuring the base of the pot sits above the waterline), grouping it with other houseplants, or using a room humidifier nearby. Regular misting provides only temporary benefit and can encourage fungal issues if water sits on the foliage.
Can I put my anthurium outside in summer?
In the UK, anthuriums can be placed outdoors in a warm, sheltered spot during summer if night temperatures remain consistently above 15°C, which is rarely reliable outside of the warmest regions. They must be positioned in full shade, as direct sun will scorch the leaves. Bring them back indoors well before autumn temperatures drop.
What type of compost is best for anthurium?
A chunky, free-draining aroid mix is ideal, such as a blend of perlite, orchid bark, and a small proportion of peat-free compost. Standard multipurpose compost used alone retains too much moisture and is likely to cause root rot over time. Good aeration around the roots is more important than nutrient-rich compost, as the plant can be fed separately.