Monstera
Monstera deliciosa
Toxic to pets
Blue Star Fern
Phlebodium aureum · Polypodiaceae
Easy
Pet-safe
Low-light tolerant
Phlebodium aureum is a tropical epiphytic fern native to the Americas, ranging from Florida and Mexico through to Argentina, where it commonly grows on palm trunks and in the forks of trees. It is distinguished by its blue-green to silvery-grey fronds, which can reach 60 cm or more in length, and by its creeping, orange-brown rhizomes that often trail over the edge of the pot. It has become a popular houseplant owing to its tolerance of lower light levels and drier air than many ferns require.
☀ Light
Bright indirect light; tolerates low light
💧 Water
Allow top third of soil to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
16-24 C
💦 Humidity
Moderate; 40-60% preferred
🌿 Soil
Free-draining, peat-free mix with perlite or bark
🍽 Feeding
Half-strength liquid fertiliser monthly in spring and summer
Photo: Forest & Kim Starr / CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
How to care for Blue Star Fern
Light
Blue Star Fern performs best in bright, indirect light, such as a spot a metre or so back from an east- or north-facing window. It will tolerate lower light better than most ferns, though growth will slow noticeably in very dim conditions. Direct summer sun should be avoided, as it bleaches and scorches the delicate fronds.
Watering
Water moderately, allowing the top third of the compost to dry out before watering again. Overwatering is the most common cause of decline; the roots are prone to rot if kept consistently wet. Use room-temperature water, preferably rainwater or filtered water, as the fronds can show sensitivity to fluoride and other tap water additives. Reduce watering frequency in winter when growth slows.
Soil and potting
A light, well-draining mix is essential. A blend of two parts peat-free potting compost with one part perlite and one part orchid bark works well, replicating the loose, aerated substrate the plant encounters as an epiphyte. Avoid dense, moisture-retentive composts that stay wet for prolonged periods.
Feeding
Feed with a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser diluted to half the recommended strength, once a month during the active growing season from spring through to early autumn. Do not feed in winter. Over-fertilising can cause brown leaf tips and salt build-up in the soil.
Humidity and temperature
Although more tolerant of average household humidity than many ferns, Phlebodium aureum still appreciates relative humidity around 40-60%. Placing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles or grouping it with other plants helps maintain humidity without misting, which can promote fungal issues. It prefers temperatures between 16 and 24 C and should not be exposed to temperatures below 10 C or to cold draughts.
Repotting
Repot every two to three years or when the rhizomes are clearly growing out of the drainage holes or over the rim of the pot. Choose a pot only one size larger, as excessively large pots hold too much moisture around the roots. Shallow, wide pots or hanging baskets suit the plant's creeping, surface-level rhizomes well. Spring is the best time to repot.
Pruning
Pruning is minimal. Remove old, yellowing, or damaged fronds by cutting them cleanly at the base with sterilised scissors. Do not remove the orange-brown rhizomes, as these are a normal and important part of the plant. Cutting back healthy fronds is unnecessary and does not encourage bushier growth.
Is Blue Star Fern toxic?
Pets: Non-toxic. Phlebodium aureum is listed by the ASPCA as non-toxic to dogs and cats. Ingestion is still likely to cause mild gastrointestinal upset such as vomiting in some animals, so access should be discouraged.
People: Not known to be toxic to humans. Safe to handle, though as with all plants, washing hands after contact is advisable.
People: Not known to be toxic to humans. Safe to handle, though as with all plants, washing hands after contact is advisable.
Common problems
Yellowing fronds
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged soil leading to root rot Fix: Allow compost to partially dry, improve drainage, and check roots; trim any blackened, mushy roots and repot into fresh, well-draining mix if necessary.
Brown, crispy frond tips or edges
Likely cause: Low humidity, fluoride or salt build-up in the soil, or direct sun exposure Fix: Increase ambient humidity, flush the soil with rainwater to remove salt build-up, switch to rainwater or filtered water, and move away from direct sunlight.
Pale or washed-out frond colour
Likely cause: Too much direct sunlight bleaching the foliage Fix: Move the plant to a position with bright but indirect light, out of direct sun.
Wilting or limp fronds despite moist soil
Likely cause: Root rot caused by prolonged waterlogging preventing uptake of water Fix: Unpot the plant, inspect and remove rotten roots, allow to air briefly, and repot into fresh, drier compost with improved drainage.
Small, sticky insects on fronds or rhizomes
Likely cause: Scale insects or mealybugs Fix: Remove visible insects manually with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol; treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, repeating every week for several weeks.
Slow or no new growth
Likely cause: Insufficient light, cold temperatures, or lack of nutrients during the growing season Fix: Move to a brighter position, ensure temperatures are above 16 C, and resume monthly feeding with a dilute balanced fertiliser through spring and summer.
How to propagate
Rhizome division
When repotting in spring, carefully separate sections of rhizome that each carry at least one growing tip and some roots, then pot each section individually into a small pot of moist, well-draining compost. This is the most reliable method for home growers.
Rhizome tip cuttings
Cut a length of healthy rhizome, approximately 5-8 cm, ensuring it has at least one growing tip. Pin it onto the surface of moist compost using a hairpin or small wire staple, keep warm and humid, and roots should develop within a few weeks.
Spore propagation
Collect the brown spore clusters (sori) from the underside of mature fronds, sow them onto the surface of moist, sterile compost, cover with a clear lid or bag, and keep at around 21 C in indirect light. This method is slow and requires patience, with viable fronds taking many months to develop.
Where Blue Star Fern comes from
Native to southern United States (Florida), Mexico, Central America, Caribbean, tropical and subtropical South America (including Brazil, Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Argentina).
Story and origins
The genus name Phlebodium derives from the Greek 'phlebodes', meaning 'full of veins', a reference to the conspicuous network of veins visible in the fronds. The species epithet 'aureum' is Latin for 'golden', referring to the golden-orange scales that clothe the creeping rhizomes. The combination of these two elements accurately describes the plant's most visually distinctive features.
Phlebodium aureum was formally described by the Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus in 1753, originally under the name Polypodium aureum, before being reclassified into the genus Phlebodium. It has a long history of use in parts of Central and South America, where indigenous peoples used preparations of the plant for various medicinal purposes. In the latter half of the twentieth century it gained traction as a houseplant in Europe and North America, prized for its unusual blue-grey colouration and its comparative ease of cultivation compared with other ferns. Its renewed popularity in the 2010s and 2020s coincides with broader interest in architectural, textural houseplants suited to modern interiors.
Varieties to know
Phlebodium aureum 'Glaucum'
Features strongly blue-grey fronds with a more intense silver sheen than the species; one of the most widely grown cultivated forms.
Phlebodium aureum 'Mandaianum'
Has distinctly ruffled and crested frond margins, giving a more ornate, decorative appearance.
Phlebodium aureum 'Blue Star'
The name most commonly applied in the houseplant trade to compact selections with notably blue-toned, undivided or shallowly lobed fronds.
Fun facts
- The orange-brown rhizomes are covered in golden scales, which give the species its epithet 'aureum', meaning golden in Latin.
- Phlebodium aureum has been investigated in scientific studies for potential immunomodulatory and photoprotective properties, particularly in relation to UV radiation exposure.
- As an epiphyte, it grows naturally without soil, anchoring itself to tree bark and obtaining moisture and nutrients from rain and organic debris.
- The creeping rhizomes can extend considerable distances from the original plant in the wild, colonising large sections of a host tree.
- It produces some of the largest fronds of any fern commonly grown as a houseplant, with fronds in ideal conditions exceeding 90 cm in length.
Blue Star Fern FAQ
Why are the tips of my Blue Star Fern turning brown?
Brown tips are most often caused by low humidity, fluoride or mineral salts in tap water, or irregular watering. Try switching to rainwater or filtered water, increasing humidity around the plant, and ensuring you water consistently without letting the plant sit in bone-dry compost for extended periods.
How often should I water my Blue Star Fern?
There is no fixed schedule; instead, check the compost and water when the top third feels dry. In a warm home during summer this might be every seven to ten days, while in winter it could be every two to three weeks. Always allow excess water to drain freely and never leave the pot sitting in a saucer of water.
Is the Blue Star Fern safe for cats and dogs?
Yes, Phlebodium aureum is listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA. However, ingestion of any plant material can cause mild stomach upset in some pets, so it is still sensible to keep the plant out of reach.
What are the orange, fuzzy roots growing on top of the soil?
Those are the plant's rhizomes, not roots. The creeping, orange-brown, scaly rhizomes are a completely normal and healthy feature of Phlebodium aureum. Do not bury or remove them; they store water and nutrients and are central to the plant's growth.
Can the Blue Star Fern grow in a bathroom?
Yes, bathrooms are often a good choice provided there is reasonable natural light available. The intermittent humidity from showers suits the plant well, though it does not require the very high humidity that many other ferns demand, so it is not limited to humid rooms.
Why is my Blue Star Fern not producing new fronds?
Slow or absent new growth is usually linked to low light, temperatures below 16 C, or the absence of feeding during the growing season. Move the plant to a brighter spot away from direct sun, ensure the room is adequately warm, and apply a diluted balanced fertiliser monthly from spring to early autumn.
How do I propagate a Blue Star Fern at home?
The simplest method is rhizome division when repotting in spring. Separate a section of rhizome that has at least one growing tip and some visible roots, and pot it into a small container of moist, free-draining compost. Keep it warm and in indirect light until new growth appears, which typically takes a few weeks.
