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Caladium (Caladium bicolor)

Caladium

Caladium bicolor · Araceae

Moderate Toxic to pets

Caladium bicolor is a tuberous perennial native to tropical South America, particularly Brazil and the Amazon basin, grown primarily for its spectacularly patterned foliage in combinations of white, pink, red, and green. The large, paper-thin leaves are arrow-shaped or heart-shaped and appear during a warm growing season, dying back completely in winter as the plant enters dormancy. It is widely cultivated as a houseplant and summer bedding plant in temperate regions, valued for the boldness and variety of its leaf markings.

☀ Light
Bright indirect light; no direct sun
💧 Water
Keep evenly moist during growth; reduce sharply in dormancy
🌡 Temp
18-29 C during growth; store tubers above 15 C
💦 Humidity
High, above 60% if possible
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, peat-free, moisture-retentive potting mix
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid feed every 2-4 weeks in the growing season

Photo: Photo by and (c)2006 Derek Ramsey (Ram-Man). Location credit to the Chanticleer Garden. / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Caladium

Light

Caladiums thrive in bright, indirect light. Direct sun will scorch the delicate leaves, causing bleached or brown patches. A position near an east or north-facing window, or set back from a south or west-facing one, works well. Varieties with more white or pink in the leaves tend to need slightly more light than predominantly green ones, which can tolerate dimmer conditions without losing vibrancy.

Watering

During active growth, water consistently to keep the compost evenly moist but never waterlogged, as tubers are prone to rotting in saturated soil. Allow the top centimetre of compost to dry slightly between waterings. As the leaves begin to die back in late summer or autumn, gradually reduce watering until the compost is almost dry. During dormancy, water only enough to prevent the tuber from completely shrivelling.

Soil and potting

Use a light, well-draining potting mix that retains some moisture without becoming compacted or waterlogged. A peat-free multipurpose compost blended with perlite at a ratio of roughly 2:1 is suitable. Good drainage is essential to prevent tuber rot. Slightly acidic to neutral pH, in the range of 5.5 to 6.5, is preferred.

Feeding

Feed with a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser every two to four weeks from the time new growth emerges in spring through to late summer. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds, which encourage leafy growth at the expense of colour intensity. Cease feeding entirely once the plant begins to enter dormancy and resume only when new shoots appear the following season.

Humidity and temperature

Caladiums require high humidity, ideally above 60%, to perform well indoors. Low humidity causes leaf edges to brown and curl. Misting, grouping plants together, or placing pots on a pebble tray filled with water are effective ways to raise ambient humidity. Maintain temperatures between 18 and 29 C during the growing season. Cold draughts and temperatures below 15 C will cause the leaves to collapse, and tubers stored below this threshold are liable to rot or fail to reshoot.

Repotting

Repot tubers each spring at the start of the growing season, or when starting tubers into growth after dormancy. Choose a pot only slightly larger than the tuber, as excessively large pots hold too much moisture and increase the risk of rot. Plant tubers with the knobbly side facing upwards, approximately 2.5 cm below the soil surface. Terracotta pots are helpful as they allow excess moisture to evaporate through the sides.

Pruning

Pruning is minimal. Remove individual leaves as they yellow or become damaged to keep the plant tidy and redirect energy. Do not remove leaves that are still green and functioning. As dormancy approaches, allow the foliage to die back naturally rather than cutting it prematurely, so the tuber can reabsorb nutrients from the dying leaves. Dead foliage can then be removed cleanly at soil level.

Is Caladium toxic?

Pets: Toxic. All parts of Caladium bicolor are toxic to cats, dogs, and horses according to ASPCA classifications. The plant contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which cause intense oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing if chewed or ingested. Contact with the sap can also irritate mucous membranes.
People: Toxic to humans, particularly children. Ingestion causes oral pain, burning, and swelling. Handle with gloves to avoid skin and eye irritation from the sap. Seek medical advice if ingestion occurs.

Common problems

Tuber rot; mushy base, collapsing stems
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged compost, particularly during cool temperatures  Fix: Remove the tuber, cut away any soft or discoloured sections with a clean knife, dust with sulphur powder or cinnamon, allow to dry briefly, and replant in fresh, well-draining compost. Adjust watering practices.
Brown, crispy leaf edges and tips
Likely cause: Low humidity, exposure to cold draughts, or underwatering  Fix: Increase humidity around the plant, move it away from draughts or air conditioning units, and ensure watering is consistent during the growing season.
Pale or washed-out leaf colour
Likely cause: Insufficient light, particularly for heavily white or pink variegated cultivars  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter location with indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which will cause scorching rather than improving colour.
Small, distorted new leaves or sticky residue on foliage
Likely cause: Infestation by aphids, mealybugs, or spider mites, the latter encouraged by low humidity  Fix: Inspect the plant and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, paying close attention to leaf undersides. Raise humidity to deter spider mites. Repeat treatment as needed at weekly intervals.
Leaves collapsing or wilting suddenly
Likely cause: Cold shock, draughts, or temperatures falling below 15 C  Fix: Move the plant to a warmer, draught-free position. If temperatures have been very low the tuber may be damaged; check for rot and store in a warm, dry place to recover.
Failure to reshoot after dormancy
Likely cause: Tuber stored at too low a temperature, kept too dry, or damaged by rot  Fix: Check the tuber for firmness; if still solid, place it in slightly moist compost in a warm spot of at least 21 C and be patient, as rehydrating can take several weeks. Discard any tubers that are completely soft or hollow.

How to propagate

Tuber division

At the start of the growing season, lift the dormant tuber and use a clean, sharp knife to divide it into sections, ensuring each piece has at least one growing bud or eye. Dust the cut surfaces with sulphur or cinnamon to prevent infection, allow them to callous for a few hours, then pot each section into moist compost and keep warm.

Offsets

Mature tubers often produce small offset tubers around their base. These can be gently detached at repotting time in spring and potted individually into suitable compost. Keep them warm and moist and they will typically sprout within a few weeks.

Where Caladium comes from

Native to Argentina Northwest, Bolivia, Brazil North, Brazil Northeast, Brazil South, Brazil Southeast, Brazil West-Central, Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, French Guiana, Guyana, Honduras, Nicaragua, Panamá, Peru, Suriname, Venezuela. Now naturalised or cultivated in 35 other regions worldwide.

Story and origins

The genus name Caladium is derived from the Malay word 'keladi', a term applied broadly to plants in the arum family that produce edible or ornamental corms and tubers. It was adopted into botanical Latin by the botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott in the nineteenth century. The species epithet bicolor means 'two-coloured' in Latin, a reference to the contrasting colours typically seen on the leaves, though in practice cultivated forms display far more than two colours.

Caladium bicolor was first described to European science following the botanical exploration of tropical South America in the eighteenth century. Plants were being cultivated in European glasshouses by the 1770s, and by the mid-nineteenth century caladiums had become enormously fashionable among wealthy collectors, who commissioned specialist growers to produce ever more elaborate colour patterns. Belgian and French nurseries were particularly prominent in developing new varieties during this period. In their native range in Brazil and surrounding countries, various caladium species have long been used in traditional medicine, though internal use is hazardous given their toxicity. The genus also carries symbolic associations in some South American cultures, where the vivid foliage is connected with celebration and decoration.

Varieties to know

Caladium bicolor 'White Queen'

Predominantly white leaves with red veining and green margins; one of the classic cultivars for indoor use.

Caladium bicolor 'Florida Sweetheart'

Compact habit with pink and white leaves edged in green; well suited to containers and lower light conditions.

Caladium bicolor 'Red Flash'

Bold red leaves with contrasting green edges and pink spots; a vigorous grower tolerating relatively bright conditions.

Caladium bicolor 'Candidum'

White leaves with vivid green veining; one of the oldest and most widely recognised cultivars in cultivation.

Caladium bicolor 'Rosebud'

Deep rose-pink centre fading to white and green margins; appreciated for its unusually deep colouration.

Fun facts

Caladium FAQ

Why are my caladium leaves turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves during the growing season most commonly indicate overwatering, poor drainage, or the start of natural dormancy in late summer. Check that the compost is not waterlogged and that the pot drains freely. If yellowing occurs progressively from late summer onwards, the plant is simply preparing for its annual dormant period, which is normal and expected.
Do caladiums need a period of dormancy?
Yes. Caladiums are tuberous perennials that naturally die back to their tuber each year, typically in autumn as day length shortens and temperatures drop. During this period, watering should be reduced sharply and the tuber kept in dry compost at a temperature above 15 C. Attempting to keep the plant growing year-round by maintaining heat and water often results in weaker growth the following season.
Can I grow caladiums outside in the UK?
Caladiums can be used as summer bedding plants or in outdoor containers in the UK during the warmer months, typically from late May to September, once all risk of frost has passed. They perform best in a sheltered, partially shaded spot. Tubers must be lifted before the first autumn frost and stored indoors in dry compost or paper bags above 15 C for the winter.
How do I start a caladium tuber into growth?
Plant the tuber with the knobbly, eye-bearing side facing upwards, approximately 2.5 cm below the surface of a well-draining potting mix. Place the pot in a warm position with a temperature of at least 21 C, ideally 24 to 27 C, and keep the compost barely moist. Sprouting typically takes two to four weeks. Avoid full watering until shoots are clearly visible.
Why does my caladium have small or plain-looking new leaves?
Small or poorly marked leaves are usually caused by insufficient light, excessively cool temperatures, or an underfed plant. Ensure the plant receives bright indirect light, maintain temperatures above 18 C, and feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser every two to four weeks during the growing season. New leaves often improve in size and colour as growing conditions become more favourable.
Are caladiums safe to keep around pets?
No. Caladiums are toxic to cats, dogs, and other pets due to insoluble calcium oxalate crystals present throughout the plant. Chewing any part of the plant causes immediate oral pain, drooling, swelling, and vomiting. Keep caladiums well out of reach of pets, or consider alternative plants in households where animals cannot be reliably prevented from accessing them.
How often should I repot my caladium?
Repot annually at the beginning of each growing season, when restarting the tuber after dormancy. Use a pot that is only a little larger than the tuber itself, as oversized pots retain excess moisture. Refresh the compost each year rather than leaving the tuber in old, exhausted soil.