HomePlants › Christmas Cactus
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii)

Christmas Cactus

Schlumbergera bridgesii · Cactaceae

Easy Toxic to pets

Schlumbergera bridgesii is a epiphytic cactus native to the coastal mountains of south-eastern Brazil, where it grows in humid, shaded forest environments rather than arid deserts. It produces flattened, leaf-like stem segments and bears pendulous, tubular flowers in shades of red, pink, white, purple, and orange during late autumn and winter. Unlike desert cacti, it requires moderate humidity, indirect light, and more regular watering, making it a forgiving and rewarding houseplant.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light
💧 Water
Moderate; allow top third to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
15-21 C (59-70 F); cooler in autumn to trigger blooming
💦 Humidity
Moderate to high, 50-60%
🌿 Soil
Free-draining, slightly acidic mix
🍽 Feeding
Monthly with balanced fertiliser, spring to early autumn

Photo: Cactus_de_noël.jpg: Empereur Day derivative work: Peter coxhead (talk) / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Christmas Cactus

Light

Schlumbergera bridgesii thrives in bright, indirect light throughout the year. A position near an east or north-facing window is ideal; direct summer sun can scorch the flattened stem segments (phylloclades). In autumn, reducing light exposure to around 12 hours or fewer per day and keeping nights cool helps initiate flower bud development, which the plant relies on as a photoperiod-sensitive species.

Watering

During the active growing season in spring and summer, water moderately and allow the top third of the compost to dry out between waterings. From late summer through to early autumn, reduce watering to encourage bud set. Once buds appear, resume moderate watering and maintain consistency, as sudden changes in moisture levels can cause buds or flowers to drop. Always use room-temperature water and ensure the pot drains freely, as waterlogged roots lead rapidly to rot.

Soil and potting

A free-draining, slightly acidic compost is essential. A blend of two parts peat-free multi-purpose compost and one part perlite or coarse grit works well, as it mimics the loose, organic matter the plant grows in naturally among tree bark and leaf litter in its native habitat. Avoid heavy, moisture-retentive composts designed for tropical foliage plants, as these increase the risk of root rot.

Feeding

Feed monthly from spring through to early autumn with a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser diluted to half strength. As buds begin to form in autumn, switch to a fertiliser lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium to support flowering. Stop feeding altogether during winter once the plant is in full bloom, then resume in spring as new growth begins.

Humidity and temperature

Schlumbergera bridgesii prefers moderate to high humidity of around 50 to 60 per cent, reflecting its origins in humid Brazilian cloud forests. Misting occasionally or placing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles can help in centrally heated homes. Temperatures between 15 and 21 C suit the plant during its growing season, but a deliberate drop to around 10 to 15 C in early autumn for four to six weeks is the most reliable way to trigger flower bud initiation. Avoid placing the plant near radiators, cold draughts, or open windows in winter.

Repotting

Repot every two to three years in spring, moving up only one pot size at a time. Schlumbergera bridgesii actually blooms more freely when slightly pot-bound, so there is no benefit in rushing to a larger container. Use a clean pot with drainage holes and fresh free-draining compost. After repotting, water sparingly for a couple of weeks to allow any disturbed roots to recover.

Pruning

Pruning is not strictly necessary but helps maintain a bushy, compact shape and encourages more flowering stems. The best time to prune is shortly after flowering ends, in late winter or early spring. Stem segments can be removed by simply twisting them off at the joint between two segments; no tools are needed. Segments removed this way can be propagated as cuttings. Remove any dead, shrivelled, or damaged segments at any time of year.

Is Christmas Cactus toxic?

Pets: Mildly toxic. According to the ASPCA, Schlumbergera bridgesii is considered mildly toxic to cats and dogs. Ingestion may cause vomiting, diarrhoea, and lethargy. The toxicity is low compared to many houseplants, but it is advisable to keep the plant out of reach of pets as a precaution.
People: Not considered toxic to humans, though ingestion is not recommended. Handling the plant does not typically cause skin irritation.

Common problems

Flower buds dropping before opening
Likely cause: Sudden changes in temperature, light levels, or watering; low humidity; moving the plant once buds have set  Fix: Keep the plant in a stable position once buds appear, maintain consistent watering and humidity, and avoid placing it near draughts or heat sources.
Limp, wrinkled, or discoloured stem segments
Likely cause: Overwatering leading to root rot, or conversely severe underwatering; also possible damage from direct sun  Fix: Check the roots for rot and remove affected tissue if necessary, repot into fresh free-draining compost, and allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Move the plant out of direct sunlight.
Failure to produce flower buds
Likely cause: Insufficient cool temperatures or darkness in autumn; too much artificial light at night interrupting the short-day cycle  Fix: Move the plant to a cool room (10 to 15 C) with 12 to 14 hours of darkness per night from early autumn for four to six weeks to initiate bud set. Ensure no artificial light reaches the plant during dark periods.
Small, slow-moving insects on stems and in soil
Likely cause: Fungus gnats (larvae in compost) or sciarid flies, encouraged by consistently damp, peat-rich compost  Fix: Allow the compost surface to dry between waterings, use sticky yellow traps for adults, and apply a nematode drench (Steinernema feltiae) to the compost to target larvae.
Sticky residue or white cottony deposits on stems
Likely cause: Mealybugs, which congregate at the junctions between stem segments  Fix: Remove visible mealybugs with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol, then treat the plant with an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray, repeating weekly for three to four weeks.
Stem segments turning yellow or pale
Likely cause: Overexposure to direct sunlight causing sun scorch, or magnesium deficiency in plants that have not been fed for a long time  Fix: Move the plant to a position with bright but indirect light. If yellowing persists after improving light conditions, apply a dilute feed containing magnesium (such as Epsom salt solution at 1 teaspoon per litre) once a month during the growing season.

How to propagate

Stem cutting

Twist off a section of two to three stem segments at a joint in late spring or summer. Allow the cut end to callous over for 24 hours, then insert it approximately one segment deep into a small pot of barely moist, free-draining compost. Keep warm and in indirect light, watering very sparingly until new growth indicates rooting has occurred, usually within four to six weeks.

Grafting

More commonly used commercially than domestically, Schlumbergera bridgesii can be grafted onto a rootstock cactus such as Selenicereus (formerly Hylocereus) to produce a standard or to improve vigour. A flat or wedge graft is made, the scion and rootstock are held together with a spine or grafting clip, and the union is kept humid and warm until secure.

Where Christmas Cactus comes from

Native to Serra dos Órgãos mountains of south-eastern Brazil.

Story and origins

The genus name Schlumbergera was established by the French botanist Charles Lemaire in 1858, honouring Frederic Schlumberger (1823 to 1893), a Belgian horticulturist and enthusiastic collector of cacti and succulents. The species epithet bridgesii commemorates Thomas Bridges (1807 to 1865), a British plant collector who gathered specimens in South America, including Brazil, during the mid-nineteenth century. The common name Christmas Cactus refers to the plant's habit of flowering around the Christmas period in the Northern Hemisphere, which coincides with the height of summer in its native Brazil.

Schlumbergera bridgesii was first described scientifically in the mid-nineteenth century following the collection of specimens from the coastal mountain ranges of south-eastern Brazil. Thomas Bridges sent plant material to Europe, where it was cultivated and described by botanists. The plant became popular in Victorian Britain and continental Europe as a winter-flowering houseplant at a time when flowering plants were especially prized during the cold, dark months. In Brazil, where it flowers in summer, it holds no particular festive association, but in the Northern Hemisphere its winter blooming made it a natural emblem of the Christmas season. It has since become one of the most widely sold houseplants in the world, with tens of millions of specimens sold globally each year.

Varieties to know

Schlumbergera bridgesii 'White Christmas'

Produces pure white flowers with a slightly pink flush at the base; one of the most popular white-flowering selections.

Schlumbergera bridgesii 'Red Flame'

Bears vivid deep-red flowers and is a vigorous grower, frequently seen in garden centres during the festive season.

Schlumbergera bridgesii 'Gold Charm'

Notable for its unusual yellow-orange flowers, which are less common in the species; requires the same care as standard selections.

Schlumbergera bridgesii 'Lavender Doll'

Produces pale lilac to mauve flowers; a subtler, softer colour than the more common red and pink cultivars.

Fun facts

Christmas Cactus FAQ

Why is my Christmas Cactus not flowering?
The most common reason is that the plant has not experienced a sufficient period of cool temperatures and long nights in autumn. Move it to a room where temperatures drop to around 10 to 15 C at night and ensure it receives 12 to 14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each day for four to six weeks from around early to mid-autumn. Even brief exposure to artificial light during dark periods can disrupt bud set.
How often should I water my Christmas Cactus?
Water moderately during the growing season, allowing the top third of the compost to dry out between waterings. Reduce watering in late summer to early autumn to encourage flowering, then maintain consistent moderate moisture once buds appear. Always empty saucers after watering to prevent roots sitting in standing water.
What is the difference between a Christmas Cactus and a Thanksgiving Cactus?
The Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) has stem segments with rounded, scalloped edges, while the Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) has sharply pointed, claw-like teeth along the edges of its segments. The Thanksgiving Cactus also typically flowers two to four weeks earlier. Most plants sold as Christmas Cacti in garden centres are actually Schlumbergera truncata or hybrids between the two species.
Can I put my Christmas Cactus outside in summer?
Yes, moving the plant outdoors to a sheltered, shaded or semi-shaded spot in summer can benefit it, as the natural fluctuation of temperatures and light helps prepare it for autumn flowering. Avoid direct sun, which will scorch the stems, and bring it back indoors before temperatures fall below 10 C in early autumn.
Is Christmas Cactus safe for cats and dogs?
The ASPCA classifies Schlumbergera bridgesii as mildly toxic to cats and dogs. Ingestion may cause vomiting, diarrhoea, and lethargy. While the risk is low, it is sensible to keep the plant out of reach of pets, particularly those that chew houseplants.
How do I get a leggy Christmas Cactus to look bushier?
After flowering ends in late winter or early spring, pinch or twist off one or two stem segments from the tips of the longer stems. This encourages branching and a fuller appearance. The removed segments can be used as cuttings to propagate new plants.
Why are the stem segments on my Christmas Cactus turning red or purple?
Reddening or purpling of the stem segments is usually a stress response caused by exposure to too much direct sunlight, extreme temperature fluctuations, or drought stress. Move the plant to a position with bright but indirect light, ensure consistent watering, and avoid draughts. Some slight purpling in autumn is normal and does not indicate a serious problem.