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Christmas Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe Calandiva)

Christmas Kalanchoe

Kalanchoe Calandiva · Crassulaceae

Easy Toxic to pets

Kalanchoe Calandiva is a cultivar group of Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, selected for its fully double, rosette-like flowers that closely resemble miniature roses. It is a succulent perennial widely grown as a flowering houseplant, prized for its long-lasting blooms and low maintenance requirements. Available in a wide range of colours including red, pink, orange, yellow, white and purple, it is commonly sold as a gift plant, particularly around the Christmas period.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light; some direct morning sun tolerated
💧 Water
Allow top half of compost to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
15-25°C
💦 Humidity
Low to moderate; tolerates dry air well
🌿 Soil
Free-draining succulent or cactus compost
🍽 Feeding
Monthly with a balanced or low-nitrogen fertiliser during active growth

Photo: Claudio Bacchiani / CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Christmas Kalanchoe

Light

Calandiva performs best in a bright position with indirect light, such as a south- or east-facing windowsill where it receives several hours of bright light without prolonged harsh midday sun. Some gentle morning sun is beneficial and can intensify flower colour, but intense afternoon sun in summer may scorch the thick, glossy leaves. Low light will cause the plant to become leggy and reduce or prevent flowering.

Watering

As a succulent, Calandiva stores water in its leaves and stems, making it highly susceptible to root rot if overwatered. Allow the top half of the compost to dry out before watering again, then water thoroughly and allow excess to drain freely from the pot. Reduce watering during winter and the post-flowering rest period. Always water at the base rather than over the foliage, and never allow the pot to sit in standing water.

Soil and potting

A free-draining compost is essential. A ready-made cactus and succulent compost works well, or a standard peat-free houseplant compost can be amended with approximately 30-50% perlite or horticultural grit to improve drainage. Good aeration around the roots helps prevent fungal disease and encourages healthy growth.

Feeding

Feed monthly during spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertiliser diluted to half strength, or use a fertiliser formulated for succulents. A low-nitrogen, higher-potassium feed can be used when flower buds are forming to support blooming. Do not feed during autumn and winter, or immediately after repotting, as this can stress the plant.

Humidity and temperature

Calandiva is well adapted to the relatively dry air found in most centrally heated homes and does not require misting or additional humidity. It prefers temperatures between 15-25°C and should be kept away from cold draughts, frost, and sudden temperature fluctuations. Temperatures below 10°C can cause chilling damage, and the plant will not tolerate frost. Avoid positioning near radiators or heating vents, which cause excessive drying.

Repotting

Repot every one to two years in spring, or when roots visibly emerge from the drainage holes. Move up only one pot size at a time, as excessively large pots retain moisture and increase the risk of root rot. Use fresh, free-draining compost and water sparingly for the first week or two after repotting to allow any damaged roots to recover.

Pruning

Deadhead spent flower clusters promptly by cutting the stem back to the next set of leaves to keep the plant tidy. After the main flowering period, cut leggy stems back by up to one third to encourage a compact, bushy habit. Removing faded growth also helps redirect the plant's energy towards new development. Calandiva can become woody with age; propagation from stem cuttings is recommended when the plant loses vigour.

Is Christmas Kalanchoe toxic?

Pets: Toxic. Kalanchoe species, including Calandiva, contain bufadienolide cardiac glycosides, which are toxic to dogs, cats, and birds. Ingestion can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, lethargy, and, in significant quantities, abnormal heart rhythm. The ASPCA lists Kalanchoe as toxic to dogs and cats. Keep the plant out of reach of all pets.
People: Generally considered low risk for adults if skin contact occurs, though ingestion is not advisable and may cause mild gastrointestinal upset. Keep away from young children.

Common problems

Yellowing, mushy stems or leaves at the base
Likely cause: Root rot caused by overwatering or poorly draining compost  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, cut away any blackened or soft roots, allow to dry briefly, then repot into fresh, dry, free-draining compost. Water sparingly thereafter.
Leaves wrinkling or shrivelling
Likely cause: Underwatering or very low humidity causing excessive moisture loss  Fix: Water thoroughly, allowing excess to drain, and increase watering frequency slightly. Check the plant is not positioned near a heat source.
Failure to rebloom
Likely cause: Insufficient exposure to short day length, which is required to trigger flowering  Fix: Provide at least six weeks of 14 or more hours of darkness per night (for example by covering with a box or moving to a dark room each evening) to initiate bud formation, then return to normal light conditions.
Brown, crispy leaf edges or patches
Likely cause: Sunscorch from direct harsh sun, or excessively dry air near a heat source  Fix: Move the plant to a position with bright but indirect light, away from radiators and vents. Trim off badly damaged leaves.
Sticky residue or distorted new growth
Likely cause: Aphid or mealybug infestation  Fix: Remove visible insects by hand or with a damp cloth. Treat with an insecticidal soap spray or neem oil solution, repeating every seven to ten days until the infestation is resolved.
Pale, washed-out leaves and leggy, elongated stems
Likely cause: Insufficient light  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with more direct or indirect light. Prune back leggy stems to encourage compact regrowth.

How to propagate

Stem cuttings

Take a healthy, non-flowering stem cutting of 5-8 cm in length, remove the lower leaves, and allow the cut end to callous over for one to two days. Insert into barely moist, free-draining compost and place in a warm, bright position, avoiding direct sun; roots typically form within two to four weeks.

Leaf cuttings

Detach a healthy, mature leaf cleanly at the base and allow it to dry for a day. Lay it on the surface of barely moist cactus compost or press the cut end lightly into the mix. Tiny plantlets may develop at the base, though this method is slower and less reliable than stem cuttings for Calandiva.

Where Christmas Kalanchoe comes from

Native to Madagascar.

Story and origins

The genus name Kalanchoe is derived from a Chinese or Cantonese name for one of the plants in the group, thought to be 'Kalan Chauhuy', meaning 'that which falls and grows', a reference to the way some Kalanchoe species propagate from fallen leaves or plantlets. The cultivar name Calandiva is a trade name coined by the breeder and is not a Latin botanical epithet; it does not carry a classical meaning but was created to be distinctive and commercially memorable. The species epithet blossfeldiana, applied to the parent species, honours Robert Blossfeld, a German nurseryman and plant collector who introduced the species to European horticulture in the 1930s.

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana was first collected in Madagascar and introduced to European horticulture in 1932 by Robert Blossfeld, who sent specimens to Germany where it quickly gained popularity as a winter-flowering pot plant. The plant's ability to bloom in the depths of winter made it commercially valuable, and breeding programmes across Europe, particularly in the Netherlands and Denmark, refined the range of flower colours and plant habits over subsequent decades. The Calandiva cultivar group, characterised by its fully double flowers, was introduced in the early 2000s and represented a significant development in the commercial Kalanchoe market, broadening consumer appeal by offering blooms that more closely resembled traditional cut flowers such as roses. Today Calandiva is one of the best-selling flowering houseplants in Europe, particularly during the Christmas and New Year retail period.

Varieties to know

Calandiva 'Kerinci'

A widely available cultivar with deep red double flowers, one of the original Calandiva introductions.

Calandiva 'Simone'

Bears fully double pale pink flowers and is noted for its compact, neat habit.

Calandiva 'Faro'

Produces bright orange double blooms and is valued for its strong, upright flower stems.

Calandiva 'White Lady'

A cultivar with pure white double flowers, popular as a gift plant and for bridal displays.

Calandiva 'Purple'

Features rich purple to violet double flowers, a colour variant less commonly seen in the standard Kalanchoe blossfeldiana range.

Fun facts

Christmas Kalanchoe FAQ

Why has my Calandiva stopped flowering and how do I get it to bloom again?
Calandiva is a short-day plant that requires at least six consecutive weeks of 14 or more hours of complete darkness each night to trigger flowering. Move the plant to a room that receives no artificial light after dark, or cover it with an opaque box each evening and uncover it each morning. After six weeks, return it to its normal bright position and flower buds should develop within a few weeks.
How often should I water my Calandiva?
Allow the top half of the compost to dry out before watering again, then water thoroughly and let all excess drain away. In warm conditions during active growth this may mean watering roughly every one to two weeks, but always check the compost rather than watering on a fixed schedule. Reduce watering in winter.
Is Calandiva safe to keep if I have cats or dogs?
No. Calandiva, like all Kalanchoe species, contains cardiac glycosides that are toxic to cats, dogs, and birds. Ingestion can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, and potentially serious heart problems. Keep the plant in a location that is completely inaccessible to pets, and contact a vet immediately if ingestion is suspected.
Should I deadhead the flowers?
Yes. Remove spent flower clusters by cutting the stem back to the next set of leaves as soon as the blooms fade. This keeps the plant tidy, prevents wasted energy on seed production (although Calandiva is sterile), and encourages the plant to produce new growth.
What is the difference between Calandiva and standard Kalanchoe blossfeldiana?
The key difference is the flower structure. Standard Kalanchoe blossfeldiana has single flowers with four petals, whereas Calandiva cultivars have fully double flowers with many petals arranged in a rosette, resembling small roses. Both plants share the same care requirements and are derived from the same parent species.
My Calandiva's leaves are turning yellow. What is wrong?
Yellowing leaves most commonly indicate overwatering or waterlogged compost leading to root rot. Check that the pot has adequate drainage and that you are allowing the compost to partially dry out between waterings. Less commonly, yellowing can result from very low light or a nitrogen deficiency if the plant has been in the same compost for a long time without feeding.
Can I plant Calandiva outdoors in the UK?
Calandiva is not frost hardy and cannot survive outdoors year-round in the UK. It may be placed outside in a sheltered, bright spot during warm summer months, but must be brought back inside before temperatures drop below about 10-12°C in autumn. It should never be exposed to frost.