Chinese Money Plant
Pilea peperomioides
Pet-safe
Clivia
Clivia miniata · Amaryllidaceae
Easy
Toxic to pets
Low-light tolerant
Clivia miniata is a robust, evergreen perennial native to the shaded forests and stream banks of South Africa. It produces strap-shaped, dark green leaves and striking clusters of orange, trumpet-shaped flowers, typically in late winter to spring. It is widely grown as a houseplant in temperate regions and is valued for its tolerance of low light and relatively undemanding nature.
☀ Light
Bright indirect light; tolerates low light
💧 Water
Allow compost to dry slightly between waterings
🌡 Temp
10 to 24 C
💦 Humidity
Average household humidity is sufficient
🌿 Soil
Well-draining loam-based or peat-free multipurpose compost
🍽 Feeding
Monthly with balanced liquid fertiliser during active growth
Photo: JLPC / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
How to care for Clivia
Light
Clivia miniata thrives in bright, indirect light, such as that found near a north- or east-facing window. It tolerates lower light levels better than most flowering houseplants, though insufficient light will reduce flowering. Direct summer sun should be avoided as it can scorch the leaves; a little gentle morning sun is acceptable.
Watering
During the growing season from spring through summer, water thoroughly and then allow the top few centimetres of compost to dry out before watering again. In autumn and winter, particularly during the cool rest period, watering should be reduced significantly to roughly once a month. Overwatering is the most common mistake and can cause root rot; ensure the pot drains freely after each watering.
Soil and potting
A well-draining, moderately fertile compost is ideal. A loam-based mix such as John Innes No. 2 combined with additional perlite or coarse grit works well. Clivia has fleshy, water-storing roots and is very susceptible to waterlogging, so good drainage is essential. Peat-free multipurpose compost blended with around 20 to 30 per cent perlite is a suitable alternative.
Feeding
Feed every two to four weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser at half the recommended strength from spring through to late summer. Once flower buds begin to appear, switching to a high-potassium fertiliser can support better blooming. Feeding should be stopped entirely during the autumn and winter rest period.
Humidity and temperature
Clivia miniata is not particularly demanding with regard to humidity and adapts well to the relatively dry air of centrally heated homes. Average indoor humidity of 40 to 60 per cent is perfectly adequate. A winter rest at cooler temperatures of around 10 to 13 C for six to eight weeks is important to stimulate flowering; without this cool period, plants may fail to bloom.
Repotting
Clivia actually flowers best when slightly pot-bound, so repotting should only be done every three to four years or when roots are visibly emerging from the drainage holes and the plant appears congested. Spring is the best time to repot, moving the plant up by only one pot size. The fleshy roots are brittle and should be handled carefully to avoid breakage.
Pruning
Little pruning is required. Remove spent flower stalks by cutting them off at the base once flowering has finished to keep the plant tidy and prevent unnecessary energy expenditure on seed production, unless seed is desired. Yellow or damaged leaves can be removed at any time by pulling them gently downward or cutting them close to the base.
Is Clivia toxic?
Pets: Toxic. All parts of Clivia miniata are toxic to dogs and cats according to ASPCA classifications. The plant contains lycorine and other Amaryllidaceae alkaloids, which can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, salivation, and in large quantities, low blood pressure and tremors.
People: All parts are toxic if ingested by humans, particularly the roots and berries. Symptoms of ingestion include nausea, vomiting, and diarrhoea. Wash hands after handling the plant. Keep away from young children.
People: All parts are toxic if ingested by humans, particularly the roots and berries. Symptoms of ingestion include nausea, vomiting, and diarrhoea. Wash hands after handling the plant. Keep away from young children.
Common problems
No flowers produced
Likely cause: Insufficient cool, dry winter rest period; plant may also be too young or in too large a pot Fix: Move the plant to a cooler location of around 10 to 13 C from late autumn for six to eight weeks, water very sparingly, and withhold fertiliser. Resume normal care in late winter to initiate flowering.
Yellowing leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged compost leading to root rot; also possible nutrient deficiency or natural ageing of lower leaves Fix: Check the compost moisture and drainage. If root rot is suspected, remove the plant from its pot, trim rotten roots, dust with fungicide, and repot into fresh, well-draining compost. Adjust the watering routine accordingly.
Brown leaf tips or scorched patches
Likely cause: Exposure to direct, intense sunlight; low humidity or fluoride in tap water can also cause tip burn Fix: Move the plant away from direct sunlight. Use rainwater or filtered water if tap water is heavily chlorinated or fluoridated.
Mealybugs visible as white, fluffy deposits
Likely cause: Infestation by mealybugs, which favour the leaf bases and undersides Fix: Remove visible mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Treat the whole plant with an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray, repeating every seven to ten days until the infestation is cleared.
Flower stalk fails to emerge properly from the leaves
Likely cause: Stalk is being physically trapped between tightly packed leaves, often associated with being moved too early from the cool rest period Fix: Gently ease the stalk free with your fingers to help it emerge. Avoid moving the plant from its cool resting spot until the flower stalk is at least 10 cm tall.
Root rot and mushy stem base
Likely cause: Persistent overwatering or poor drainage causing fungal infection Fix: Remove the plant from its pot and inspect the roots. Cut away all soft, brown, rotten roots with sterilised scissors. Allow the roots to air dry briefly, treat with a fungicidal powder, and repot into fresh, gritty compost in a clean pot with good drainage holes. Reduce watering frequency going forward.
How to propagate
Division of offsets
Clivia produces offsets, known as pups, around the base of the parent plant. These can be detached when they have at least four to six leaves of their own, ideally at repotting time in spring. Separate them carefully and pot individually into small pots of well-draining compost.
Seed
Seeds can be harvested from the red berries that develop after flowering. Remove the seed from the berry, sow fresh in moist, free-draining compost, and keep at around 20 C. Germination takes several weeks, but seedlings will not flower for three to five years.
Where Clivia comes from
Native to KwaZulu-Natal, Eastern Cape, Mpumalanga, Swaziland.
Story and origins
The genus name Clivia was established by the botanist John Lindley in 1828 and is a direct tribute to Lady Charlotte Florentina Clive, Duchess of Northumberland, who was a keen horticulturalist and granddaughter of Robert Clive of India. The species epithet miniata derives from the Latin word 'minium', meaning red lead or vermilion, referring to the vivid orange-red colour of the flowers.
Clivia miniata was collected from the KwaZulu-Natal region of South Africa in the 19th century and first described and named by the botanist John Lindley in 1828. It became a popular conservatory and greenhouse plant throughout Victorian Britain and continental Europe, particularly prized for its ability to flower in winter. The plant holds cultural significance in Japan, where Clivia breeding has become a dedicated horticultural pursuit since the 20th century, with collectors developing numerous specialist cultivars, particularly yellow-flowered forms, which are considered exceptionally prestigious. In its native South Africa, the plant has some traditional medicinal uses among local communities, though its toxicity means such use requires care.
Varieties to know
Clivia miniata var. citrina
A naturally occurring variety producing pale yellow to cream flowers rather than the typical orange; highly sought after by collectors.
Clivia miniata 'Flame'
A cultivar selected for particularly deep red-orange flowers with a rich, intense colouration.
Clivia miniata 'Belgian Hybrid'
A group of cultivars developed in Belgium in the 19th century, known for large, well-shaped flower heads and robust growth.
Clivia miniata 'Aurea'
Produces soft yellow flowers; similar to var. citrina but developed through selective cultivation.
Fun facts
- Clivia miniata was introduced to cultivation in Britain in the 1850s and quickly became a fashionable conservatory plant among the Victorian upper classes.
- The plant is named in honour of Lady Charlotte Florentina Clive, Duchess of Northumberland, who was one of the first to flower the plant in cultivation in Britain.
- In Japan, Clivia cultivation is taken extremely seriously, with rare yellow and variegated forms commanding prices equivalent to thousands of pounds per plant.
- Unlike most members of the Amaryllidaceae family, Clivia miniata does not grow from a true bulb but from a fleshy rhizomatous rootstock.
- The bright red berries produced after flowering can take nine months or more to fully ripen on the plant.
Clivia FAQ
Why is my Clivia not flowering?
The most common reason is a lack of a cool, dry rest period in winter. Move the plant to a cooler room of around 10 to 13 C from October onwards, reduce watering to once a month, and stop feeding. After six to eight weeks, bring it back into warmth and resume normal watering, and a flower stalk should emerge within a few weeks.
How often should I water my Clivia?
During spring and summer, water when the top few centimetres of compost feel dry, roughly every one to two weeks depending on conditions. In autumn and winter, reduce watering to approximately once a month. Clivia is far more tolerant of drought than of overwatering.
Is Clivia safe around cats and dogs?
No. Clivia miniata is toxic to both cats and dogs. All parts of the plant contain lycorine and related alkaloids that can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, and other symptoms if ingested. Keep the plant out of reach of pets and seek veterinary advice immediately if ingestion is suspected.
When should I repot my Clivia?
Clivia flowers best when slightly pot-bound, so there is no need to repot frequently. Only repot when roots are clearly bursting out of the drainage holes or the plant is visibly struggling. Every three to four years in spring is usually sufficient, moving up by just one pot size.
Can Clivia be grown outdoors in the UK?
Clivia miniata is frost-tender and cannot survive outdoors year-round in most of the UK. It can be placed outside in a sheltered, shaded spot during warm summer months but must be brought back indoors before temperatures drop below about 10 C in autumn.
How do I get my Clivia to produce offsets?
Offsets are produced naturally around the base of a mature plant, though this can take several years. Keeping the plant healthy, slightly pot-bound, and giving it a proper winter rest will encourage the production of offsets over time. Avoid removing them until they have at least four to six leaves of their own.
What should I do with the berries that form after flowering?
The red berries contain viable seed and can be allowed to ripen on the plant for up to nine months. If you wish to propagate from seed, harvest the berries once fully red, extract the seed, and sow fresh. Bear in mind that seed-grown plants will take three to five years to flower for the first time.
