Chinese Money Plant
Pilea peperomioides
Pet-safe
Crassula Buddha Temple
Crassula Buddha's Temple · Crassulaceae
Moderate
Toxic to pets
Crassula 'Buddha's Temple' is a compact succulent hybrid created by Myron Kimnach at the Huntington Botanical Gardens in California, resulting from a cross between Crassula pyramidalis and Crassula perfoliata var. minor. It is prized for its remarkable architectural form: tightly stacked, square-edged grey-green leaves that spiral upwards to form a neat, column-like structure resembling a tiered pagoda. In ideal conditions it produces clusters of small pink to red tubular flowers at the top of the column, typically in late winter or early spring.
☀ Light
Bright, direct to indirect light
💧 Water
Infrequent; allow compost to dry fully between waterings
🌡 Temp
10-27°C
💦 Humidity
Low; good ventilation essential
🌿 Soil
Free-draining gritty or cactus compost
🍽 Feeding
Monthly in spring and summer with diluted low-nitrogen fertiliser
Photo: Nadiatalent / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
How to care for Crassula Buddha Temple
Light
Crassula 'Buddha's Temple' performs best in a position receiving at least four hours of bright light each day, including some direct sun. A south- or east-facing windowsill indoors is ideal. Insufficient light causes the column to etiolate, with leaves spacing out and losing the tight, stacked form that makes the plant distinctive. Rotate the pot periodically to ensure even growth on all sides.
Watering
This hybrid follows typical succulent watering principles: water thoroughly, then allow the compost to dry out completely before watering again. During the active growing season (spring to summer) this may mean watering every two to three weeks, depending on pot size, temperature, and light levels. In autumn and winter, reduce watering significantly, providing just enough moisture to prevent the leaves shrivelling. Always water at the base and avoid wetting the foliage or allowing water to collect in the leaf axils, as this promotes rot.
Soil and potting
A sharply draining compost is essential. A proprietary cactus and succulent compost works well, or mix standard peat-free compost with roughly 50% coarse horticultural grit or perlite. Good drainage prevents the root rot to which this cultivar is particularly susceptible. Use terracotta pots where possible, as they allow moisture to evaporate through the walls.
Feeding
Feed once a month during spring and summer using a balanced or low-nitrogen liquid fertiliser diluted to half the recommended strength. Excessive nitrogen encourages soft, weak growth that distorts the plant's columnar habit. Cease feeding entirely in autumn and winter when the plant is resting.
Humidity and temperature
Crassula 'Buddha's Temple' tolerates the low humidity typical of most homes and does not require misting. Good air circulation is important to discourage fungal problems. It prefers temperatures between 10°C and 27°C and can tolerate brief dips to around 5°C if kept dry, but it is not frost-hardy. Avoid placing it near cold draughts, radiators, or air-conditioning units.
Repotting
Repot every two to three years, or when the root system has clearly filled the pot. Choose a container only slightly larger than the previous one, as oversized pots hold excess moisture and increase the risk of root rot. Spring is the best time to repot. Handle the plant carefully, as the tightly packed leaves can be dislodged if knocked. Allow the plant to settle for a week or two before watering after repotting.
Pruning
Little pruning is needed or desirable, as removing growth disrupts the architectural column. If the plant produces offsets at the base, these can be removed with a clean sharp blade if a tidier appearance is preferred, or left to form a clump. After flowering, the column that bloomed will typically die back; remove it cleanly at the base to allow offsets to develop.
Is Crassula Buddha Temple toxic?
Pets: Toxic. Crassula species are listed by the ASPCA as toxic to cats and dogs. Ingestion may cause vomiting, depression, and incoordination. The specific toxic compound has not been definitively identified. Keep the plant out of reach of pets.
People: Generally considered of low toxicity to humans, but ingestion is not advisable. Contact with sap may occasionally cause mild skin irritation in sensitive individuals. Wash hands after handling.
People: Generally considered of low toxicity to humans, but ingestion is not advisable. Contact with sap may occasionally cause mild skin irritation in sensitive individuals. Wash hands after handling.
Common problems
Soft, mushy stem at the base or throughout the column
Likely cause: Root or stem rot caused by overwatering or poorly draining compost Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, cut away all rotten tissue with a sterile blade, allow the cut surfaces to callous for several days, then repot into fresh, dry gritty compost. Do not water for at least a week.
Leaves spacing apart and column becoming elongated
Likely cause: Etiolation due to insufficient light Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with some direct sun. Note that existing elongated growth cannot revert; however, new growth will be more compact in better light.
White, waxy cottony deposits in leaf axils
Likely cause: Mealybugs Fix: Remove visible insects with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Treat the whole plant with a neem oil solution or an appropriate insecticide, repeating every seven to ten days until the infestation is clear.
Leaves appear shrivelled and wrinkled
Likely cause: Underwatering or extreme heat stress Fix: Water the plant thoroughly, ensuring water drains freely from the base. Review watering frequency during summer months and ensure the plant is not in an excessively hot position without airflow.
Pale, bleached or scorched patches on leaves
Likely cause: Sunscorch, often occurring when a plant acclimatised to lower light is suddenly moved to intense direct sun Fix: Move the plant to a slightly less intense position and acclimatise it gradually to higher light levels over several weeks. Scorched tissue will not recover but new growth will be healthy.
Leaves dropping or plant collapsing at the base
Likely cause: Cold damage or frost exposure Fix: Move the plant to a warmer position immediately. If frost damage is confirmed, remove damaged tissue and ensure the plant stays dry while it recovers. Prevent recurrence by keeping the plant above 5°C at all times.
How to propagate
Stem cuttings
Remove a healthy stem section of 5-8 cm with a clean, sharp blade. Allow the cut end to callous for two to five days, then place it in barely moist gritty compost. Keep in bright, indirect light and avoid overwatering until rooting is established after four to eight weeks.
Offset division
Mature plants often produce basal offsets (pups). Remove these carefully at the base using a sterile blade, allow the cut surface to dry for a few days, then pot into gritty compost as with stem cuttings.
Leaf cuttings
While technically possible, leaf propagation is unreliable in this cultivar and rarely produces viable plants. Stem or offset propagation is strongly preferred and more likely to succeed.
Where Crassula Buddha Temple comes from
Native to Western Cape, South Africa (parent species only).
Story and origins
The genus name Crassula derives from the Latin 'crassus', meaning thick or fat, a reference to the characteristically fleshy, water-storing leaves shared by all members of the genus. The cultivar name 'Buddha's Temple' is an aesthetic descriptor inspired by the tiered, pagoda-like appearance of the stacked leaves, which visually evokes the multi-storey tower structures associated with Buddhist architecture across East and South-East Asia. The name is purely horticultural in origin and carries no formal botanical or taxonomic significance beyond identifying this specific cultivar.
Crassula 'Buddha's Temple' was hybridised by Myron Kimnach, a botanist and curator at the Huntington Botanical Gardens in San Marino, California, during the 1950s. Kimnach crossed Crassula pyramidalis with Crassula perfoliata var. minor to produce a plant with a distinctly architectural columnar form unlike either parent. The cultivar was formally introduced to horticulture and became a sought-after specimen among succulent collectors for its sculptural qualities and compact size. It remains a staple of specialist succulent collections and has gained broader popularity as interest in architectural houseplants has grown. Its parent species are indigenous to the Cape Floristic Region of South Africa, a globally significant centre of plant diversity.
Varieties to know
Crassula 'Buddha's Temple'
The primary cultivar; no widely recognised named sub-varieties exist as this is itself a specific registered hybrid. Plants sold under this name should all be the same cross, though quality and column tightness can vary between suppliers.
Fun facts
- Crassula 'Buddha's Temple' is a man-made hybrid and does not occur naturally in the wild; it was deliberately bred by Myron Kimnach at the Huntington Botanical Gardens in California in the 1950s.
- The remarkably tight stacking of leaves is a result of the plant's inherent growth habit rather than any special treatment; each new leaf pair grows at 90 degrees to the one below, creating a four-sided column.
- After a column flowers, it typically monocarpic at that growing point, meaning the flowering stem dies after blooming, though the plant itself survives via basal offsets.
- Despite its exotic architectural appearance, 'Buddha's Temple' is quite slow-growing, often taking several years to reach its maximum height of around 15 cm.
- The parent species Crassula pyramidalis is native to the Western Cape of South Africa, meaning the hybrid's wild genetic heritage is entirely African.
Crassula Buddha Temple FAQ
Why is my Buddha's Temple losing its tight, stacked shape?
This is almost always caused by insufficient light. The plant needs at least four hours of bright light daily, including some direct sun. Move it to a sunnier windowsill and the new growth should be more compact, though already elongated sections will not revert.
How often should I water Crassula Buddha's Temple?
Allow the compost to dry out completely between waterings. In spring and summer this is typically every two to three weeks; in autumn and winter, once a month or less. Always check the compost is dry before watering rather than following a fixed schedule.
My plant has started to rot at the base. Can I save it?
Yes, often. Remove the plant from its pot, cut away all soft or discoloured tissue with a sterile blade until you reach firm, healthy growth. Leave the cut surfaces to dry and callous for several days, then replant in fresh, dry, gritty compost. Do not water for at least a week afterwards.
Why did the top of my Buddha's Temple flower and then die?
This is normal behaviour. The flowering column is monocarpic at that point, meaning it naturally dies back after blooming. Remove the spent column cleanly at the base. The plant typically produces offsets from the base that will grow on to form new columns.
Is Crassula Buddha's Temple safe around cats and dogs?
No. Crassula species are listed as toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA. Ingestion can cause vomiting, lethargy, and loss of coordination. Keep the plant in a position that is inaccessible to pets.
Can I put my Buddha's Temple outside in summer?
Yes, provided temperatures are reliably above 10°C and the risk of heavy rain is managed. A sheltered spot with bright light but some afternoon shade works well. Acclimatise the plant gradually to outdoor conditions to avoid sunscorch, and bring it back indoors before temperatures drop in autumn.
How do I propagate Crassula Buddha's Temple?
The most reliable method is stem cuttings. Remove a healthy stem section of around 5-8 cm, allow the cut end to callous for a few days, then place it in barely moist gritty compost. Alternatively, basal offsets can be separated and potted individually. Leaf propagation is not reliable for this cultivar.
