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Ctenanthe Burle Marxii (Ctenanthe burle-marxii)

Ctenanthe Burle Marxii

Ctenanthe burle-marxii · Marantaceae

Moderate Pet-safe

Ctenanthe burle-marxii is a compact, rhizomatous perennial native to the humid Atlantic forests of Brazil. It is grown for its distinctive pale grey-green leaves marked with dark green herringbone patterning along the midrib, and for the contrasting deep maroon undersides of its foliage. Like other members of the Marantaceae family, it exhibits nyctinasty, folding its leaves upward at night in a movement often likened to praying hands.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light; no direct sun
💧 Water
Keep evenly moist; allow top centimetre to dry slightly
🌡 Temp
16 to 27 C
💦 Humidity
High; above 60% preferred
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, peat-free, moisture-retentive mix
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid fertiliser every 2 to 4 weeks in growing season

Photo: Benutzer:Callipides / CC BY-SA 2.0 de via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Ctenanthe Burle Marxii

Light

Ctenanthe burle-marxii thrives in bright, indirect light. A position near an east- or north-facing window in the UK is often ideal, or set back from a south- or west-facing window to avoid direct sun, which will scorch and bleach the patterned foliage. Low light is tolerated to a degree but will cause the markings to fade and growth to slow considerably.

Watering

Water with room-temperature, low-fluoride water whenever the top centimetre of the compost feels just dry to the touch. This plant dislikes both drought and waterlogging; consistently wet roots will lead to root rot, while allowing it to dry out causes leaf curl and brown edges. Rainwater or filtered water is preferable to tap water where fluoride and chlorine levels are high, as this species is sensitive to mineral build-up.

Soil and potting

Use a well-draining yet moisture-retentive compost. A suitable mix might combine two parts peat-free houseplant compost with one part perlite and one part fine bark or coir to ensure good aeration and drainage. A slightly acidic to neutral pH of around 6.0 to 7.0 is appropriate. Avoid heavy or compacted soils that hold excess water around the roots.

Feeding

Apply a diluted balanced liquid fertiliser at half the recommended strength every two to four weeks during spring and summer. Reduce feeding to once monthly in autumn and cease entirely in winter when the plant is not actively growing. Over-fertilising can cause salt build-up and tip burn, so flushing the pot through with water every few months is advisable.

Humidity and temperature

This species requires consistently high humidity, ideally above 60%, to maintain leaf condition and prevent brown leaf margins. Grouping plants together, placing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, or using a room humidifier are all effective approaches. Misting directly onto the foliage can encourage fungal issues and is not recommended. Keep the plant in temperatures between 16 and 27 C and away from cold draughts, radiators, and air-conditioning units.

Repotting

Repot every one to two years in spring when the roots begin to circle the base of the pot or emerge from the drainage holes. Choose a pot only one or two sizes larger than the current one, as an overly large container retains excess moisture and raises the risk of root rot. Terracotta pots can help regulate soil moisture but require more frequent watering than plastic or ceramic alternatives.

Pruning

Pruning requirements are minimal. Remove any yellowed, damaged, or dead leaves at the base with clean scissors or secateurs to maintain the plant's appearance and direct energy into healthy growth. Do not remove more than one-third of the foliage at once. Trimming spent flower stalks, if the plant flowers indoors, will keep the plant looking tidy.

Is Ctenanthe Burle Marxii toxic?

Pets: Non-toxic. Ctenanthe burle-marxii is not listed as toxic to cats or dogs by the ASPCA. It is generally considered safe around common household pets.
People: Not known to be toxic to humans; however, ingestion of houseplants is not advisable, particularly for young children.

Common problems

Brown, crispy leaf edges and tips
Likely cause: Low humidity, fluoride or chlorine in tap water, or irregular watering  Fix: Increase humidity, switch to rainwater or filtered water, and maintain a consistent watering routine. Trim affected leaf edges with clean scissors.
Yellowing leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering, poor drainage, or root rot  Fix: Check the roots for rot; remove any affected sections and repot into fresh, well-draining compost. Allow the top layer of soil to dry slightly before the next watering.
Faded or dull leaf markings
Likely cause: Insufficient light  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which paradoxically also bleaches the patterning through scorch.
Leaves failing to fold at night (no nyctinastic movement)
Likely cause: Stress caused by drought, cold, low light, or root-bound conditions  Fix: Assess overall care conditions and address any deficiencies; ensure the plant is in good health and has sufficient root space.
Fine webbing on leaves or stippled, pale foliage
Likely cause: Red spider mite infestation, typically in dry conditions  Fix: Increase humidity, isolate the plant, and treat with an appropriate insecticide or neem oil solution, wiping the undersides of leaves thoroughly. Repeat treatment weekly for several weeks.
Sticky residue or distorted new growth
Likely cause: Scale insects or mealybugs  Fix: Remove pests manually with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, then treat the plant with neem oil or an appropriate contact insecticide. Inspect regularly and repeat as needed.

How to propagate

Division

The most reliable method is to divide the rhizome at repotting time in spring. Separate the plant into sections, each with a healthy stem and a portion of root, and pot each division into its own container with fresh compost.

Stem cuttings

Take a cutting just below a leaf node, retaining one or two leaves, and place it in a glass of water or moist propagation mix in a warm, humid environment. Roots should develop within four to eight weeks, after which the cutting can be transferred to compost.

Where Ctenanthe Burle Marxii comes from

Native to south-eastern Brazil, Atlantic Forest region of Brazil.

Story and origins

The genus name Ctenanthe is derived from the ancient Greek words 'kteis' (meaning comb) and 'anthos' (meaning flower), referring to the comb-like arrangement of the bracts surrounding the flowers. The species epithet 'burle-marxii' is a Latinised form of the name of Roberto Burle Marx (1909 to 1994), the pioneering Brazilian landscape architect, artist, and botanist who championed the use of native Brazilian flora in designed landscapes and was instrumental in collecting and propagating many species from the Atlantic Forest.

Roberto Burle Marx was among the first landscape designers to systematically seek out and promote native Brazilian plants, including members of the Marantaceae family, at a time when tropical garden design was dominated by imported species. Ctenanthe burle-marxii was formally described in the mid-twentieth century and was named to honour his contribution to Brazilian botany and horticulture. The species became popular in European and North American houseplant collections from the latter decades of the twentieth century, valued for the ornamental quality of its foliage and its relative compactness compared with larger Marantaceae relatives.

Varieties to know

Ctenanthe burle-marxii 'Amagris'

A popular cultivar with pale silvery-grey leaf surfaces and darker green herringbone markings; among the most widely available forms in cultivation.

Fun facts

Ctenanthe Burle Marxii FAQ

Why are the edges of my Ctenanthe burle-marxii turning brown?
Brown leaf edges are most commonly caused by low humidity, watering with fluoride- or chlorine-rich tap water, or inconsistent watering. Try switching to rainwater or filtered water, increase ambient humidity using a pebble tray or humidifier, and ensure you are watering before the compost dries out completely.
How often should I water my Ctenanthe burle-marxii?
There is no fixed schedule; instead, water whenever the top centimetre of compost feels just dry. In a warm home during summer this may be every five to seven days, while in winter it could be every ten to fourteen days. Always check the soil rather than watering by the calendar.
Is Ctenanthe burle-marxii safe for cats and dogs?
Yes, it is considered non-toxic to cats and dogs according to ASPCA guidance. However, ingestion of any plant material can cause mild digestive upset in some animals, so it is sensible to discourage pets from chewing the leaves.
Why does my Ctenanthe burle-marxii fold its leaves at night?
This is a natural behaviour called nyctinasty, common to many plants in the Marantaceae family. Changes in light levels trigger cells in the pulvinus at the base of the leaf stalk to alter their water pressure, causing the leaves to fold upward in the evening and open again in the morning.
What is the difference between Ctenanthe burle-marxii and a Calathea?
Both belong to the Marantaceae family and share similar ornamental foliage and prayer-plant behaviour. They are distinct genera, though they are closely related. Many plants once sold as Calathea have since been reclassified as Goeppertia, but Ctenanthe remains its own separate genus with slightly different floral structures and a more sprawling, low-growing habit.
How much light does Ctenanthe burle-marxii need?
It prefers bright, indirect light, such as a position near an east-facing window or set back from a south- or west-facing window. It will tolerate lower light but the leaf patterning will become less vivid and growth will slow. Direct sunlight should be avoided as it scorches and bleaches the foliage.
Does Ctenanthe burle-marxii produce flowers?
It can flower, producing small white blooms arranged in a spike with conspicuous bracts, typically in spring or summer. However, flowers are infrequent when the plant is grown as an indoor houseplant in the UK, and the plant is cultivated primarily for its foliage rather than its blooms.