HomePlants › Cyclamen
Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum)

Cyclamen

Cyclamen persicum · Primulaceae

Moderate Toxic to pets

Cyclamen persicum is a tuberous perennial native to rocky hillsides and scrubland across the eastern Mediterranean, from Greece and Turkey through to Lebanon and Israel. It is widely grown as a houseplant and seasonal gift plant, prized for its distinctive reflexed petals in shades of white, pink, red, and purple, which appear above attractively marbled, heart-shaped foliage. Unlike many popular houseplants, it thrives in cool conditions and follows a natural summer dormancy cycle, which can catch inexperienced growers off guard.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light
💧 Water
Water from below; keep compost moist but not waterlogged
🌡 Temp
10 to 18 degrees C
💦 Humidity
Moderate; avoid dry, stuffy air
🌿 Soil
Free-draining, peat-free multipurpose compost
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid feed every 2 to 3 weeks when in growth

Photo: Hanay / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Cyclamen

Light

Cyclamen persicum requires bright, indirect light during its growing and flowering season, which runs from autumn through to spring. A north- or east-facing windowsill, or a position set back slightly from a south- or west-facing window, suits it well. Direct summer sun will scorch the leaves and stress the plant. During dormancy in summer, light requirements diminish as the tuber rests.

Watering

Water from below by placing the pot in a shallow tray of water for about 20 to 30 minutes, then allowing it to drain fully. This prevents water from pooling on or around the crown of the tuber, which is prone to rot. Allow the top layer of compost to dry slightly between waterings, but do not let the plant dry out completely while in active growth. Reduce watering significantly as the plant enters dormancy in late spring and early summer, stopping almost entirely until new growth emerges.

Soil and potting

A free-draining, peat-free multipurpose compost is suitable, ideally with added perlite or grit to improve drainage further. The tuber is highly susceptible to waterlogging, so the growing medium must never remain saturated. A slightly acidic to neutral pH of around 6.0 to 7.0 is appropriate. Specialist cyclamen compost is available commercially but is not essential if a well-draining general compost is used.

Feeding

During the active growing season, from autumn through to early spring, feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser diluted to half strength every two to three weeks. A formulation with a slightly higher potassium content can help support and prolong flowering. Do not feed during dormancy, as the tuber is resting and cannot use the nutrients, which may accumulate and cause root damage.

Humidity and temperature

Cyclamen persicum performs best in cool, consistent temperatures of 10 to 18 degrees C. Temperatures above 20 degrees C, particularly when sustained overnight, shorten the flowering period significantly and can cause premature dormancy or flower drop. The plant should be kept away from radiators, fireplaces, and draughts from doors. Moderate ambient humidity is beneficial; occasional light misting of the surrounding air (avoiding direct misting of flowers and the crown) or placing the pot on a pebble tray with a little water can help in centrally heated rooms.

Repotting

Cyclamen persicum tubers are typically repotted once they emerge from dormancy in late summer or early autumn, usually every one to two years. Select a pot only slightly larger than the tuber, as the plant prefers slightly snug conditions. When repotting, the tuber should be positioned so that its upper half sits just above the compost surface. This reduces the risk of crown rot and reflects how the plant grows in its native habitat. Refresh the compost fully at this stage.

Pruning

Pruning cyclamen is largely a matter of removing spent flowers and yellowing leaves to encourage continued blooming and maintain plant health. Deadheading is best done by grasping the flower stalk firmly at its base and giving it a sharp, twisting tug to remove the entire stalk cleanly, rather than cutting, which can leave a stump prone to rot. The same method applies to yellowing leaves. Do not use scissors unless necessary, and avoid leaving any decaying material on or near the tuber.

Is Cyclamen toxic?

Pets: Toxic. All parts of Cyclamen persicum are considered toxic to dogs and cats according to ASPCA classifications. The highest concentration of toxic saponins (particularly cyclamin) is found in the tubers. Ingestion can cause salivation, vomiting, and diarrhoea; ingestion of large quantities of tuber material may lead to more serious symptoms including abnormal heart rate and seizures. Veterinary advice should be sought immediately if ingestion is suspected.
People: The plant is also toxic to humans if ingested, particularly the tuber. Contact with the sap may cause mild skin irritation in sensitive individuals. Keep away from young children.

Common problems

Yellowing leaves and wilting despite moist compost
Likely cause: Crown or root rot caused by overwatering or water sitting on the tuber  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, allow the tuber to dry briefly, trim away any rotten roots or tissue, and repot into fresh, dry, well-draining compost. Allow the compost to dry out before watering again. Water from below in future.
Flowers and buds dropping prematurely
Likely cause: Excessive heat, low humidity, or exposure to cold draughts  Fix: Move the plant to a cooler position away from heat sources and draughts. Aim for 10 to 18 degrees C. Increase ambient humidity slightly and ensure good air circulation without direct cold blasts.
Pale, stretched leaves and poor flowering
Likely cause: Insufficient light  Fix: Relocate the plant to a brighter position with good indirect light. Avoid deep shade or positions far from a window during the growing season.
Grey mould (Botrytis) on leaves, stems or flowers
Likely cause: Botrytis cinerea fungal infection, encouraged by poor air circulation, excessive humidity, or overwatering  Fix: Remove all affected plant material immediately. Improve ventilation around the plant. Reduce watering frequency and avoid misting directly onto the foliage or flowers. A suitable fungicide may be applied if the problem persists.
Tiny, fast-moving insects on the undersides of leaves; distorted growth
Likely cause: Cyclamen mite (Phytonemus pallidus) or, less commonly, vine weevil larvae in the compost  Fix: For cyclamen mites, isolate the plant immediately as they spread rapidly. Treat with an appropriate miticide or, if the infestation is severe, dispose of the plant. For vine weevil, repot the plant, remove any grubs found in the compost, and treat with a biological nematode control or a suitable insecticide.
Leaves curling inward with sticky residue or sooty mould
Likely cause: Aphid infestation  Fix: Remove aphids by hand or with a soft damp cloth. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem-based spray, taking care to cover undersides of leaves. Repeat weekly until clear.

How to propagate

Seed

Sow seeds in late summer or early autumn at 12 to 15 degrees C in moist, free-draining seed compost. Germination takes four to six weeks and can be slow and uneven; seedlings take approximately 12 to 18 months to reach flowering size.

Tuber division

A mature tuber can be carefully divided when dormant in summer, ensuring each section has at least one growing point. Cut sections should be dusted with powdered sulphur or allowed to dry slightly before potting to reduce the risk of rot, though this method carries a significant risk of losing the plant and is not generally recommended for beginners.

Where Cyclamen comes from

Native to eastern Mediterranean basin, Greek islands, Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, Israel, northern Algeria, Tunisia, Cyprus.

Story and origins

The genus name Cyclamen is derived from the Greek 'kyklaminos', which itself is thought to relate to 'kyklos', meaning circle or wheel, most likely a reference to the rounded shape of the tuber or possibly to the way the flower stalks coil downward in a spiral as the seeds develop after pollination. The species epithet persicum means 'of Persia' (modern-day Iran), a name applied by early European botanists who associated the plant with the eastern Mediterranean and western Asian region, though its native range does not in fact extend into Iran.

Cyclamen persicum has been cultivated in Europe since at least the sixteenth century, when it was introduced to western European gardens from the eastern Mediterranean. It became a subject of significant interest among early botanists including Carolus Clusius, who described it in the late 1500s. Intensive breeding began in earnest in the nineteenth century, particularly in Germany and Britain, producing the large-flowered forms that remain popular today. In the Victorian era, cyclamen became fashionable as a winter-flowering pot plant for cool conservatories and parlours. It carries symbolic associations with sincerity and heartfelt emotion in the Victorian language of flowers, and in some Mediterranean cultures the plant has historically been associated with love and fertility.

Varieties to know

Cyclamen persicum 'Sierra' series

A widely available, compact F1 hybrid series producing abundant flowers across a broad colour range; bred for reliability as a commercial pot plant.

Cyclamen persicum 'Halios' series

A vigorous, large-flowered commercial series with good heat tolerance relative to many cyclamen cultivars; popular in retail settings.

Cyclamen persicum 'Miracle' series

A miniature to intermediate-sized cultivar group noted for its extremely long flowering period and compact growth habit.

Cyclamen persicum 'Victoria'

A distinctive cultivar bearing white flowers with a frilled, serrated petal margin edged in deep pink or red; considered a heritage-style variety.

Cyclamen persicum 'Odisseo' series

One of the few fragrant cyclamen series available commercially; flowers carry a light, sweet scent unusual in modern bred varieties.

Fun facts

Cyclamen FAQ

Why are my cyclamen leaves turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves on cyclamen are most commonly caused by overwatering, excessive heat, or the plant entering its natural summer dormancy. Check that you are watering from below and allowing the compost to drain fully. If the temperature in the room is above 18 degrees C, the plant may simply be preparing to rest. Reduce watering and allow the foliage to die back naturally.
Can I keep my cyclamen going after it finishes flowering?
Yes. As flowering finishes in spring, gradually reduce watering and stop feeding. Allow the foliage to die back fully and store the dormant pot in a cool, dry, shaded spot over summer. In late summer, resume light watering and move the plant back to a bright, cool position. New growth should emerge within a few weeks.
Why has my cyclamen suddenly wilted even though I have been watering it?
Sudden wilting despite regular watering often indicates crown or root rot caused by overwatering or water collecting around the tuber. Remove the plant from its pot and inspect the tuber and roots. Soft, mushy, or discoloured tissue indicates rot. Trim away affected areas, allow the tuber to dry, and repot in fresh, free-draining compost.
What temperature does cyclamen need?
Cyclamen persicum prefers cool conditions, ideally between 10 and 18 degrees C. It will tolerate brief dips to around 5 degrees C but should not be exposed to frost. Temperatures consistently above 20 degrees C cause the plant to decline rapidly and drop flowers. A cool bedroom, hallway, or conservatory is often an ideal location.
Is cyclamen safe to have around cats and dogs?
No. Cyclamen persicum is toxic to both cats and dogs. All parts of the plant contain toxic saponins, with the tuber having the highest concentration. Symptoms of ingestion include vomiting, salivation, and diarrhoea; large quantities can cause more severe reactions. Keep the plant out of reach of pets and contact a vet immediately if ingestion is suspected.
Why will my cyclamen not re-bloom after dormancy?
Failure to re-bloom after dormancy is usually due to insufficient light, excessively warm temperatures, or the tuber having been kept too dry or too wet during the dormant period. Ensure the plant is moved to a bright, cool position in early autumn, resume regular watering from below, and begin feeding once new growth is clearly established. If the tuber feels completely dried out and shrivelled, it may not recover.
How do I remove dead flowers from my cyclamen properly?
Grasp the entire flower stalk, not just the flower head, at its base near the tuber and give it a firm, twisting pull to detach it cleanly. Do not cut it, as a short stump left behind can become an entry point for rot. The same technique applies to yellowing leaves. Removing spent flowers regularly encourages the plant to continue producing new blooms.