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Episcia (Episcia cupreata)

Episcia

Episcia cupreata · Gesneriaceae

Moderate Pet-safe

Episcia cupreata is a low-growing, stoloniferous perennial native to the tropical rainforests of South America and Central America, prized for its ornate, velvety foliage in combinations of copper, silver, green and brown. Small tubular flowers, typically scarlet or orange-red, appear intermittently throughout the year under good conditions. It is closely related to African Violets and shares similar care requirements, though it demands consistently high humidity to thrive.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light; no direct sun
💧 Water
Keep consistently moist but never waterlogged
🌡 Temp
18 to 27 C
💦 Humidity
High, ideally 60% or above
🌿 Soil
Light, well-draining peat-free mix
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid fertiliser every two to four weeks in growing season

Photo: Dick Culbert from Gibsons, B.C., Canada / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Episcia

Light

Episcia cupreata performs best in bright, indirect light. An east or north-facing windowsill, or a position set back from a south or west-facing window, suits it well. Insufficient light leads to poor flowering and faded leaf markings, while direct sun scorches the delicate foliage. Fluorescent or LED grow lights work well for those without a suitably bright spot.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top centimetre of compost feels barely moist, then allow any excess to drain freely. Episcia is sensitive to both drought and waterlogging; erring towards consistently moist rather than wet is the aim. Use room-temperature water, preferably rainwater or filtered water, as cold water or water containing high levels of fluoride or chlorine can cause leaf spotting and tip damage.

Soil and potting

A light, open, moisture-retentive mix is ideal. A blend of peat-free houseplant compost with added perlite and a little fine bark in roughly equal proportions works well, ensuring good drainage while retaining enough moisture for the roots. Avoid heavy, dense composts that compact and restrict airflow around the roots.

Feeding

During the active growing season from spring through to early autumn, feed every two to four weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser diluted to half the recommended strength. A formulation with a slightly higher potassium content can encourage flowering. Feeding is not necessary in winter when growth slows significantly.

Humidity and temperature

High humidity is one of the most critical requirements for Episcia cupreata. Aim for a minimum of 60% relative humidity; levels below 50% cause leaf edges to brown and curl. Grouping plants together, placing pots on a tray of damp pebbles, or using a room humidifier are all effective strategies. Temperature should remain between 18 and 27 C; the plant is intolerant of cold draughts and should not be exposed to temperatures below 15 C.

Repotting

Repot in spring when roots begin to emerge from the drainage holes or the plant looks crowded in its container. Choose a pot only one size larger, as Episcia flowers better when slightly pot-bound and is prone to root rot in oversized containers. Shallow pots or hanging baskets suit its trailing stolons well. Refresh the compost even if a larger pot is not required.

Pruning

Trim back leggy or overgrown stolons to maintain a tidy, compact shape. Removing spent flowers and any yellowing or damaged leaves keeps the plant healthy and encourages further blooms. If the centre of the plant becomes congested or woody over time, cutting it back moderately in spring can rejuvenate growth. Pruning material can be used directly for propagation.

Is Episcia toxic?

Pets: Non-toxic. Episcia cupreata is not listed as toxic to cats or dogs by the ASPCA. It is generally considered safe around common household pets, though ingestion of any plant material in large quantities can cause mild gastrointestinal upset.
People: Not considered toxic to humans. The plant is safe to handle and grow in households with children, though ingestion is not advisable.

Common problems

Brown, crispy leaf edges
Likely cause: Low humidity or cold draughts  Fix: Raise humidity to 60% or above, move the plant away from draughts and cold windowpanes, and ensure temperatures do not drop below 18 C.
Yellowing leaves and mushy stems
Likely cause: Overwatering or poor drainage leading to root rot  Fix: Allow the compost to partially dry out, check drainage holes are clear, and consider repotting into fresh, well-draining compost. Remove any rotten roots before repotting.
Pale, washed-out foliage and poor flowering
Likely cause: Insufficient light  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with indirect light, or supplement with a grow light for 12 to 14 hours per day.
White or grey powdery coating on leaves
Likely cause: Powdery mildew, often triggered by poor air circulation combined with high humidity  Fix: Improve air circulation around the plant, avoid wetting the foliage, and treat with a suitable fungicide if the problem persists.
Sticky leaves and small insects on stems or leaf undersides
Likely cause: Aphids or mealybugs  Fix: Remove visible pests manually, wipe leaves with a damp cloth, and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil solution, repeating every seven to ten days until resolved.
Leaf spots or patches after watering
Likely cause: Cold water or fluoride/chlorine sensitivity causing contact spotting  Fix: Use room-temperature rainwater or filtered water, and water at the base of the plant rather than over the foliage.

How to propagate

Stolon cuttings

Snip a healthy stolon (runner) with at least one leaf node and pin it onto the surface of moist compost in a small pot. Roots develop within two to four weeks, after which the stolon can be severed from the parent plant.

Stem tip cuttings

Take a tip cutting three to five centimetres long, remove the lower leaves, and insert it into moist perlite or a peat-free propagating mix. Enclose in a clear plastic bag or propagator to retain humidity and place in a warm, bright spot until roots form.

Leaf cuttings

A healthy leaf with a short petiole can be inserted into moist propagating compost; small plantlets should emerge at the base within several weeks, though success rates are lower than with stolon cuttings.

Where Episcia comes from

Native to Colombia, Venezuela, Trinidad, southern Mexico, Central America including Costa Rica and Panama.

Story and origins

The genus name Episcia derives from the Greek word 'episkios', meaning shaded or in the shade, a reference to the plant's natural habitat on the shaded floors of tropical rainforests. The species epithet 'cupreata' comes from the Latin 'cupreus', meaning copper-coloured, alluding to the distinctive coppery hue of the foliage that is characteristic of many forms of this species.

Episcia cupreata was formally described by the Belgian botanist Charles Lemaire in 1847, based on material collected from the tropical regions of South America. It became popular in European and North American horticulture during the mid-twentieth century, particularly after the formation of the Gesneriad Society in 1951, which promoted cultivation of the Gesneriaceae family among enthusiasts. Its vivid foliage and ease of propagation through stolons made it a favourite for hanging baskets and terrarium planting, and numerous cultivars were subsequently selected and named throughout the latter half of the twentieth century.

Varieties to know

Episcia cupreata 'Acajou'

Features particularly rich copper and silver variegated leaves with a strong metallic sheen.

Episcia cupreata 'Silver Sheen'

Displays predominantly silver leaves with a fine green edge and veining; a striking foliage form.

Episcia cupreata 'Chocolate Soldier'

Dark chocolate-brown leaves with silver central markings; a popular cultivar for its dramatic colouring.

Episcia cupreata 'Cleopatra'

A highly ornamental cultivar with pink, green and cream variegation on the foliage, quite different from the typical species.

Episcia cupreata 'Tropical Topaz'

Noted for its yellow flowers rather than the usual red or orange, making it botanically distinct among cultivars.

Fun facts

Episcia FAQ

Why are the leaves on my Episcia going brown at the edges?
Brown leaf edges on Episcia cupreata are almost always caused by low humidity or cold draughts. The plant requires humidity of at least 60% and dislikes temperatures below 18 C. Try grouping it with other plants, placing it on a pebble tray filled with water, or running a humidifier nearby.
How do I get my Episcia to flower?
Episcia cupreata flowers most freely when it receives bright, indirect light for most of the day, consistent warmth above 18 C, high humidity, and regular feeding with a balanced fertiliser during the growing season. Moving it slightly closer to a light source and ensuring it is not pot-bound often encourages blooming.
Can I grow Episcia in a terrarium?
Yes, Episcia cupreata is an excellent terrarium plant. The enclosed environment naturally maintains the high humidity it requires, and its low, trailing growth habit suits open or large closed terrariums well. Ensure there is sufficient indirect or artificial light and that ventilation prevents stagnant air.
Is Episcia safe to keep around cats and dogs?
Episcia cupreata is not listed as toxic to cats or dogs by the ASPCA and is generally considered a pet-safe houseplant. However, as with any plant, ingestion of large amounts of foliage may cause mild stomach upset, so it is sensible to keep it out of reach of animals that regularly chew plants.
How do I propagate Episcia?
The easiest method is to use the stolons (runners) the plant naturally produces. Pin a stolon with a leaf node onto the surface of moist compost in a separate pot; roots will form within a few weeks and the stolon can then be cut from the parent plant. Stem tip cuttings rooted in moist perlite under a propagator lid are also effective.
Why is my Episcia losing its colourful leaf markings?
Fading or loss of the coppery and silver leaf patterning is usually a sign of insufficient light. Move the plant to a brighter spot with indirect light, or introduce a grow light. Avoid direct sun, which causes bleaching and scorch, but ensure it is close enough to a window or artificial light source to maintain good leaf colour.
How often should I water Episcia cupreata?
Water when the top centimetre of compost feels barely moist, then water thoroughly and allow all excess to drain away. In warm conditions during summer this may be every few days; in cooler winter months, watering frequency should be reduced significantly. Always use room-temperature water to avoid leaf spotting.