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Flamingo Flower (Anthurium scherzerianum)

Flamingo Flower

Anthurium scherzerianum · Araceae

Moderate Toxic to pets

Anthurium scherzerianum is a compact, evergreen perennial native to the cloud forests of Costa Rica and Guatemala, where it grows as an epiphyte in humid, shaded conditions. It is prized as a houseplant for its long-lasting, waxy red spathes and distinctive coiled or curled spadix, which distinguishes it from its close relative Anthurium andraeanum. With proper care it can flower repeatedly throughout the year, making it one of the more rewarding flowering houseplants for indoor cultivation.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light
💧 Water
Water when top 2-3 cm of compost dries out
🌡 Temp
16-24 C
💦 Humidity
60-80% relative humidity
🌿 Soil
Free-draining, bark-based or peat-free orchid-type mix
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid fertiliser at half strength every 4 weeks in growing season

Photo: JJ Harrison (https://www.jjharrison.com.au/) / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Flamingo Flower

Light

Anthurium scherzerianum thrives in bright, indirect light, such as that found a metre or so back from an east- or west-facing window. Direct summer sun will scorch the leaves and bleach the spathes, while deep shade reduces flowering significantly. A north-facing windowsill is usually too dim for consistent blooming, though the foliage will survive. Supplementary LED grow lighting can be used during winter months to maintain flower production.

Watering

Water thoroughly, allowing excess to drain freely, then wait until the top 2-3 cm of the growing medium has dried before watering again. Anthurium scherzerianum is sensitive to both overwatering and drought; consistently waterlogged roots lead rapidly to root rot, while prolonged dryness causes wilting and leaf tip browning. Always use water that is at room temperature and, where possible, use rainwater or filtered water, as this species is sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine present in some mains supplies.

Soil and potting

A free-draining, airy substrate is essential to replicate the epiphytic conditions of the plant's natural habitat. A suitable mix can be made from two parts coarse perlite or bark chips, two parts peat-free compost, and one part horticultural grit or pumice. Ready-made orchid bark compost, amended with additional perlite, also works well. The medium must not compact around the roots or retain standing moisture.

Feeding

During the active growing season from spring through to early autumn, apply a balanced, phosphorus-inclusive liquid fertiliser diluted to half the manufacturer's recommended strength every three to four weeks. A fertiliser with a slightly higher phosphorus ratio (the middle NPK number) can encourage flowering. Feeding should be reduced to once every six to eight weeks in winter when growth slows. Avoid over-feeding, as salt build-up in the compost can damage roots.

Humidity and temperature

This species requires relatively high humidity of 60-80% to perform well. In centrally heated homes, humidity can drop well below this level, particularly in winter. Stand the pot on a tray of damp gravel, group it with other plants, or use a cool-mist humidifier nearby. Misting directly onto the leaves can encourage fungal issues and is not the most effective method. The ideal temperature range is 16-24 C; the plant will tolerate short dips to around 13 C but should never be exposed to frost or cold draughts.

Repotting

Repot every two to three years, or when roots begin to circle the base of the pot or emerge from drainage holes. Choose a new pot only one size larger, as Anthurium scherzerianum tends to flower more reliably when slightly root-bound. Spring is the best time to repot. Terracotta pots are useful because they allow the substrate to dry more evenly, reducing the risk of root rot. Handle the roots carefully, as they are somewhat brittle.

Pruning

Little pruning is required beyond removing spent flower spathes once they fade and green over, and cutting away any yellowing or damaged leaves at the base of the stem using clean, sharp scissors or a blade. Removing old spathes promptly directs the plant's energy towards new growth and flower production. Do not remove green, healthy leaves unnecessarily, as the foliage is the primary driver of the plant's photosynthetic activity.

Is Flamingo Flower toxic?

Pets: Toxic. All parts of Anthurium scherzerianum contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. Ingestion by cats, dogs, or other pets causes oral irritation, excessive drooling, pawing at the mouth, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. The ASPCA lists Anthurium species as toxic to cats and dogs. Keep the plant out of reach of all pets and seek veterinary advice immediately if ingestion is suspected.
People: The sap and plant material can cause skin and mucous membrane irritation due to calcium oxalate crystals. Ingestion causes a burning sensation in the mouth and throat. Wash hands thoroughly after handling and keep away from young children.

Common problems

Yellow leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged compost, occasionally nutrient deficiency  Fix: Check the root ball for rot; remove any mushy roots and repot into fresh, dry compost. Adjust the watering schedule to allow the top few centimetres to dry before the next watering. If roots appear healthy, apply a balanced liquid feed.
Brown leaf tips or edges
Likely cause: Low humidity, fluoride or salt build-up in compost, or drought stress  Fix: Increase ambient humidity using a pebble tray or humidifier, flush the compost periodically with rainwater to leach accumulated salts, and ensure the plant is not placed near heating vents or draughts.
Failure to flower
Likely cause: Insufficient light, low temperature, or overfeeding with nitrogen  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with more indirect light, ensure temperatures remain above 16 C, and switch to a fertiliser with a higher phosphorus content during the growing season.
Root rot
Likely cause: Consistently waterlogged compost, often combined with a poorly draining growing medium  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, trim all brown and mushy roots back to healthy tissue, dust cut surfaces with powdered cinnamon or a fungicide, and repot into fresh, free-draining compost. Allow the plant to dry slightly before resuming a cautious watering regime.
Mealybugs or scale insects on leaves and stems
Likely cause: Common sap-sucking pests, often introduced on new plants or encouraged by dry air  Fix: Remove visible insects with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol. For heavier infestations, apply a neem oil solution or an appropriate systemic insecticide. Isolate the plant from others and inspect weekly until the infestation is resolved.
Pale, bleached or scorched leaves
Likely cause: Exposure to direct sunlight, especially summer afternoon sun through glass  Fix: Move the plant further from the window or use a sheer curtain to diffuse the light. Any severely scorched leaves can be removed. New growth produced in the correct light conditions should emerge undamaged.

How to propagate

Division

At repotting time in spring, carefully separate offsets or side shoots that have developed their own root system from the parent plant. Pot each division into a small container with fresh, free-draining compost and keep it warm and humid while it establishes.

Stem cuttings

Take a stem cutting that includes at least one node and ideally one or two aerial roots, and place it in a small pot of moist, perlite-heavy compost or in a jar of water. Maintain high humidity and temperatures of around 20-22 C until new root and leaf growth is evident, then pot on normally.

Seed

Seed is rarely available commercially and requires hand pollination to produce. Ripe berries are harvested from the spadix, the seeds cleaned and sown fresh onto the surface of moist, fine compost at around 22-25 C. Germination is slow and variable, and seedlings take several years to reach flowering size.

Where Flamingo Flower comes from

Native to Costa Rica.

Story and origins

The genus name Anthurium is derived from the Greek words 'anthos' meaning flower and 'oura' meaning tail, a reference to the tail-like spadix characteristic of plants in this genus. The species epithet scherzerianum commemorates the Austrian naturalist Karl Scherzer (1821-1903), who participated in the Novara Expedition of 1857-1859, one of Austria's most significant scientific voyages, during which many new plant species were collected and documented across the tropics.

Anthurium scherzerianum was first described formally by Heinrich Wilhelm Schott, a leading Austrian botanist and specialist in the family Araceae, in 1857. It was among the species brought to European attention during the mid-nineteenth century era of intensive botanical exploration in Central America. The plant was introduced to European horticulture relatively quickly after its discovery and became popular as a conservatory and later houseplant throughout the Victorian era, prized for its exotic appearance and long-lasting floral display. It gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit, reflecting its enduring value as an ornamental plant in suitable indoor conditions.

Varieties to know

Anthurium scherzerianum 'Rothschildianum'

A striking cultivar bearing white spathes spotted with red, creating a distinctive polka-dot effect.

Anthurium scherzerianum 'Album'

Produces pure white spathes rather than the typical red, giving a more understated appearance.

Anthurium scherzerianum 'Wardii'

Features deep, dark red spathes and is considered one of the more richly coloured cultivars.

Anthurium scherzerianum 'Compactum'

A more compact-growing form, well suited to smaller spaces, with proportionally smaller spathes and leaves.

Fun facts

Flamingo Flower FAQ

Why are the leaves on my Flamingo Flower turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves are most commonly caused by overwatering or waterlogged compost leading to root stress or rot. Allow the top few centimetres of compost to dry before watering, ensure the pot drains freely, and check the roots for any sign of rot. Nutrient deficiency and very low light can also cause yellowing, though these are less frequent causes.
How do I get my Anthurium scherzerianum to flower again?
Ensure the plant receives bright, indirect light for several hours each day, as insufficient light is the most common reason for failure to rebloom. Maintain temperatures above 16 C, provide high humidity, and switch to a fertiliser with a higher phosphorus content during spring and summer. Removing spent spathes promptly also encourages the plant to produce new flower stems.
How is Anthurium scherzerianum different from Anthurium andraeanum?
The most obvious difference is the spadix: in Anthurium scherzerianum it is coiled or curled like a pigtail, whereas in Anthurium andraeanum it is straight and erect. Anthurium scherzerianum is also generally smaller and more compact in habit, and its spathes tend to be slightly more textured rather than the very smooth, lacquered appearance typical of Anthurium andraeanum.
Is Anthurium scherzerianum safe to have around cats and dogs?
No. Like all Anthurium species, it contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals throughout the plant, which are toxic to cats and dogs. Ingestion causes oral pain, drooling, swelling of the mouth and throat, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. The plant should be kept well out of reach of pets, and a vet should be contacted immediately if ingestion occurs.
What type of compost should I use for my Flamingo Flower?
Anthurium scherzerianum needs a free-draining, airy growing medium that does not retain excess moisture. A good approach is to use a bark-based orchid compost mixed with extra perlite, or to create your own blend of coarse bark chips, perlite, and a small proportion of peat-free compost. Standard houseplant compost used alone is generally too water-retentive and increases the risk of root rot.
How often should I repot my Anthurium scherzerianum?
Repotting is typically needed every two to three years, and ideally only when the plant is clearly root-bound, with roots circling the base or growing out of the drainage holes. Choose a pot only one size larger than the current one, as this species tends to flower more readily when slightly pot-bound. Spring is the best time to carry out repotting.
Can I grow Anthurium scherzerianum in a bathroom?
A bathroom can be a suitable location provided there is adequate natural or artificial light. The naturally higher humidity found in bathrooms is beneficial for this species. However, if the bathroom has no window or only a very small one, the light levels will be too low for reliable flowering and the plant may decline over time. A bright bathroom with a frosted or east-facing window is often an ideal spot.