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Giant Taro (Alocasia macrorrhizos)

Giant Taro

Alocasia macrorrhizos · Araceae

Moderate Toxic to pets

Alocasia macrorrhizos is a large, fast-growing tropical aroid native to the rainforests and forest margins of South and Southeast Asia, including Sri Lanka, India, Malaysia, and the Philippines. It produces enormous, upright, arrow-shaped leaves that can exceed one metre in length in mature specimens, held on thick, pale green petioles. In temperate climates it is grown as a dramatic houseplant or conservatory specimen, valued for its bold architectural form.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light
💧 Water
Consistently moist but never waterlogged
🌡 Temp
18 to 30 C
💦 Humidity
High, above 60%
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, aerated, rich mix
🍽 Feeding
Fortnightly during growing season

Photo: KENPEI / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Giant Taro

Light

Alocasia macrorrhizos thrives in bright, indirect light that mimics the dappled canopy conditions of its native habitat. A position near a large east- or west-facing window is ideal; direct summer sun, particularly through south-facing glass, will scorch the leaves. It can tolerate lower light levels for short periods but will slow its growth considerably and become prone to overwatering issues if kept in deep shade for extended spells.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top 2 to 3 cm of compost have dried out, allowing excess to drain freely from the pot. During the active growing season from spring through summer this may mean watering every five to seven days, but always check the compost rather than following a rigid schedule. Reduce watering significantly in autumn and winter when the plant enters a period of rest, as sitting in wet compost at lower temperatures is the most common cause of root rot. Use room-temperature water and avoid leaving the plant standing in a saucer of water.

Soil and potting

A well-draining yet moisture-retentive mix is essential. A reliable blend combines one part peat-free potting compost, one part perlite or pumice, and one part coarse bark chips. This replicates the loose, humus-rich forest floor soils the plant favours, provides adequate aeration around the roots, and reduces the risk of waterlogging. A slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0 is appropriate.

Feeding

Feed every two weeks throughout spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertiliser diluted to the manufacturer's recommended strength. A fertiliser with an NPK ratio of roughly 20-20-20 or one slightly higher in nitrogen suits the plant's need to support rapid, leafy growth. Cease feeding entirely from October through February when the plant is resting, as unused nutrients can accumulate as salts in the compost and damage roots.

Humidity and temperature

This species demands high humidity, ideally above 60%, and will develop brown, crispy leaf margins if kept in dry air. Group it with other plants, place the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, or use a cool-mist humidifier nearby; misting the foliage directly is less effective and can encourage fungal spots. Keep temperatures between 18 and 30 C and protect the plant from draughts, cold windowpanes in winter, and temperatures below 15 C, at which point growth ceases and corm rot becomes a serious risk.

Repotting

Repot every one to two years in spring when roots are visibly emerging from the drainage holes or circling the base of the rootball. Choose a pot only one or two sizes larger than the current one, as an excessively large container retains too much moisture. Terracotta pots aid aeration and help prevent overwatering. At repotting, inspect the rhizome for any soft or discoloured rot and trim affected areas cleanly with a sterile blade, dusting cuts with powdered cinnamon or activated charcoal.

Pruning

Pruning is largely limited to the removal of old, yellowing, or damaged leaves. Cut the petiole cleanly at its base using sharp, sterile scissors or secateurs. Wear gloves during this task, as the sap contains calcium oxalate crystals that irritate skin and mucous membranes. Do not remove healthy leaves unnecessarily, as each leaf contributes to the plant's photosynthetic capacity; the plant naturally sheds older lower leaves as it matures.

Is Giant Taro toxic?

Pets: Toxic. All parts of Alocasia macrorrhizos contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to cats and dogs according to ASPCA classifications. Ingestion can cause intense oral irritation, pawing at the mouth, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. Veterinary attention is advisable if significant ingestion is suspected.
People: Toxic if ingested; causes intense burning and irritation of the mouth, throat, and digestive tract due to calcium oxalate crystals. The sap also causes skin and eye irritation on contact. Note that in some Pacific and Southeast Asian cultures the rhizome and leaves are consumed after extensive cooking and preparation, which neutralises the crystals, but the raw plant should never be eaten. Keep out of reach of children.

Common problems

Yellow leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged compost, occasionally low light or nutrient deficiency  Fix: Allow the compost to dry out more between waterings, check drainage holes are clear, and review the soil mix. If rot is suspected, remove the plant from its pot, trim affected roots, and repot into fresh, well-draining compost.
Brown, crispy leaf edges or tips
Likely cause: Low humidity, exposure to draughts, or fluoride and salt build-up in the compost  Fix: Increase ambient humidity using a humidifier or pebble tray, move the plant away from draughts and air-conditioning vents, and flush the compost thoroughly with water every few months to leach out mineral deposits.
Drooping or collapsing leaves
Likely cause: Underwatering, overwatering, or cold temperatures  Fix: Check the compost moisture level; if dry, water thoroughly. If wet and cold, allow it to dry and move the plant to a warmer position. Persistent drooping despite correct watering may indicate root rot.
Spider mite infestation (fine webbing, pale stippled leaves)
Likely cause: Low humidity and warm, dry indoor conditions favour spider mites  Fix: Increase humidity, wipe leaves clean with a damp cloth, and treat with an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray, repeating weekly for at least three applications.
Scale insects (brown lumps on stems and leaf undersides)
Likely cause: Common sap-feeding pest that spreads from other affected houseplants  Fix: Remove individual scales by wiping with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol, then treat the whole plant with neem oil or horticultural oil. Isolate the plant to prevent spread.
Dark, irregular spots or patches on leaves
Likely cause: Fungal or bacterial leaf spot, often triggered by poor air circulation, overmisting, or water left sitting on foliage  Fix: Remove affected leaves, improve air circulation around the plant, avoid wetting the foliage, and if necessary apply a copper-based fungicide. Ensure the growing environment is not excessively humid without adequate ventilation.

How to propagate

Rhizome division

When repotting in spring, carefully separate offsets or suckers that have developed their own roots from the main rhizome using a clean, sharp blade. Pot each division into a small container of moist, well-draining compost and keep warm and humid until new growth is established.

Stem cuttings from the corm

Sections of the thick stem or corm, each containing at least one growth node, can be cut and allowed to callous for several hours before being placed in moist perlite or sphagnum moss. Maintain warmth of around 24 C and high humidity; roots and shoots typically emerge within four to eight weeks.

Seed

Seeds can be germinated at temperatures above 22 C in moist, well-aerated seed compost, though this method is slow, rarely practical for indoor growers, and requires access to fresh seed as viability declines rapidly.

Where Giant Taro comes from

Native to Bismarck Archipelago, Borneo, Maluku, New Guinea, Philippines, Queensland, Solomon Is., Sulawesi. Now naturalised or cultivated in 62 other regions worldwide.

Story and origins

The genus name Alocasia is thought to derive from the Greek prefix 'a', meaning without or distinct from, combined with Colocasia, the related genus of taro, indicating a plant closely allied to but distinct from Colocasia. The species epithet macrorrhizos comes from the Greek 'makros' meaning large and 'rhiza' meaning root, referring to the plant's substantial, fleshy rhizome or corm. The name was formalised by the German botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott in the nineteenth century as he worked to classify the large and complex Araceae family.

Alocasia macrorrhizos has a long history of human use across South and Southeast Asia and the Pacific. It was among the staple crops transported by Austronesian-speaking peoples during their migrations across the Indo-Pacific thousands of years ago, and it features in the traditional food systems and cultural practices of communities from India to the Solomon Islands. European botanists documented the species during the colonial era, with early descriptions appearing in the works of Georg Rumphius in the seventeenth century. In the nineteenth century it became a coveted foliage plant in European conservatories and stove houses, where its dramatic size made it a popular specimen during the Victorian enthusiasm for tropical exotica. Today it enjoys renewed popularity as a houseplant due to the widespread resurgence of interest in large-leaved tropical aroids.

Varieties to know

Alocasia macrorrhizos 'Variegata'

An uncommonly available cultivar with irregular cream, white, or pale yellow variegation on the large leaves; slower growing than the species and requires brighter indirect light to maintain colouration.

Alocasia macrorrhizos 'Lutea'

Distinguished by yellow-green petioles and midribs, giving the foliage a striking two-tone appearance.

Alocasia macrorrhizos 'Borneo Giant'

A particularly large-growing selection reputedly capable of producing leaves of exceptional size; mainly of interest to collectors with space for a specimen plant.

Fun facts

Giant Taro FAQ

Why are my Alocasia macrorrhizos leaves turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves are most commonly caused by overwatering or poor drainage leading to root rot. Check that the compost is not remaining wet for extended periods, ensure the pot has drainage holes, and allow the top few centimetres to dry out before watering again. Yellowing of the oldest, lowest leaves can also be normal as the plant sheds them with age.
My plant seems to have died back completely in winter. Is it dead?
Not necessarily. Alocasia macrorrhizos can go dormant, particularly in cooler or darker conditions, and the above-ground leaves may die back entirely while the rhizome remains viable. Keep the compost barely moist rather than dry, maintain warmth above 15 C, and new growth will typically emerge in spring when temperatures and light levels increase.
How often should I water Giant Taro indoors?
There is no universal schedule; frequency depends on pot size, compost type, light, temperature, and season. A reliable method is to check the compost by inserting a finger two to three centimetres deep and watering only when it feels dry at that depth. In warm, bright summer conditions this may be every five to seven days; in winter it may be every two to three weeks.
Can Alocasia macrorrhizos tolerate low light?
It can survive in lower light conditions temporarily but will not thrive. In poor light growth slows, new leaves become smaller, and the plant becomes more susceptible to overwatering problems. Bright, indirect light is strongly recommended for healthy growth.
Is Giant Taro safe to keep in a home with cats or dogs?
No. All parts of the plant are toxic to cats and dogs due to calcium oxalate crystals, which cause oral and gastrointestinal irritation. It is advisable to keep the plant in a location that is entirely inaccessible to pets, or to choose a non-toxic alternative if you have animals that chew houseplants.
Why does my plant have water droplets on the leaf tips in the morning?
This is guttation, a normal physiological process in which the plant exudes excess water from specialised pores called hydathodes. It typically occurs overnight when the soil is moist and evaporation is low. It is not a cause for concern and does not indicate overwatering by itself.
How large will Alocasia macrorrhizos get indoors?
Indoors in a container, growth is constrained compared to its outdoor tropical potential. A well-cared-for specimen in a large pot can reach 1.5 to 2.5 metres in height, with leaves of 60 to 90 centimetres in length. Restricting pot size, lower light, and cooler temperatures all limit ultimate size.