How to care for Haworthia
Light
Haworthiopsis attenuata thrives in bright, indirect light and will tolerate a north- or east-facing windowsill better than most succulents. It can adapt to lower light levels, though growth will slow and the white banding may become less pronounced. Direct summer sun, particularly through glass, can scorch the leaves and should be avoided.
Watering
Water thoroughly during spring and summer, allowing the compost to dry out completely between waterings. In autumn and winter reduce watering significantly, watering only once every four to six weeks when the compost is entirely dry. Overwatering is the most common cause of failure; the roots are prone to rot if left in damp soil.
Soil and potting
A free-draining compost is essential. Use a proprietary cactus and succulent mix, or blend standard multipurpose compost with at least 50 per cent coarse horticultural grit or perlite. Good drainage prevents waterlogging around the shallow root system.
Feeding
Feed once a month during the active growing season from April to September using a balanced liquid fertiliser diluted to half the recommended strength. A specialist succulent or cactus fertiliser with a lower nitrogen content is preferable. Do not feed during autumn and winter.
Humidity and temperature
This species is well suited to the dry conditions typical of most homes and requires no supplemental humidity. It prefers temperatures between 10 and 26 C and will tolerate cooler conditions in winter, which can encourage flowering. Avoid placing it near radiators or cold draughts, and never allow it to be exposed to frost.
Repotting
Repot every two to three years, or when the plant becomes pot-bound and offsets begin crowding the container. Spring is the best time. Move up only one pot size at a time, using a terracotta or unglazed ceramic pot with drainage holes to help prevent excess moisture retention.
Pruning
Pruning is rarely necessary. Remove dead or withered outer leaves by peeling them cleanly away from the base of the rosette. If the plant produces a flower spike that has finished blooming, cut it back to the base using clean scissors or a blade. Do not cut into healthy leaf tissue.
Is Haworthia toxic?
Pets: Non-toxic. Haworthiopsis attenuata is listed as non-toxic to dogs and cats by the ASPCA. It is considered a safe choice in households with pets.
People: Not considered toxic to humans. No significant adverse effects are recorded from contact or accidental ingestion.
Common problems
Soft, mushy or brown leaves at the base
Likely cause: Root rot caused by overwatering or poorly draining soil Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, cut away rotten roots and any affected leaves, allow to dry for a day or two, then repot into fresh dry compost. Reduce watering frequency.
Shrivelled or wrinkled leaves
Likely cause: Underwatering or very low humidity Fix: Water thoroughly and allow excess to drain. Check the soil is not completely compacted and repot if necessary. Wrinkling caused by underwatering should resolve within a few days of watering.
Brown, bleached or papery patches on leaves
Likely cause: Sunscorch from prolonged direct sunlight Fix: Move the plant to a position with bright indirect light rather than direct sun. Remove badly damaged leaves.
Pale, elongated or stretched growth (etiolation)
Likely cause: Insufficient light Fix: Move the plant gradually to a brighter position. Sudden exposure to strong light after a period of low light can cause scorch, so transition slowly over one to two weeks.
White or grey cottony clusters at the leaf base or between leaves
Likely cause: Mealybug infestation Fix: Remove visible insects with a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol. Treat the whole plant with an appropriate insecticide or neem oil solution and repeat weekly for several weeks.
Tiny webbing or speckled discolouration on leaves
Likely cause: Spider mite infestation, more likely in very dry, warm conditions Fix: Wipe leaves with a damp cloth, increase air circulation and treat with an insecticidal soap spray. Repeat applications are usually required.
How to propagate
Offsets (pups)
Haworthiopsis attenuata freely produces offsets around the base of the mother rosette. Once an offset has developed its own visible roots, carefully detach it from the parent using a clean knife or by gentle separation, allow the cut surface to callous for a day, then pot individually into dry succulent compost and begin light watering after a week.
Leaf cuttings
Remove a healthy leaf cleanly from the base of the rosette with a gentle twisting motion, ensuring the base is intact. Allow the cut end to callous for two to three days, then lay it on or insert the base lightly into barely moist succulent compost. Rooting is slow and success rates are variable with this species.
Where Haworthia comes from
Native to Eastern Cape Province, South Africa.
Story and origins
The genus name Haworthiopsis means 'resembling Haworthia', the closely related genus from which this species was separated. Haworthia itself was named in honour of Adrian Hardy Haworth (1767 to 1833), an English botanist and entomologist who made significant contributions to the study of succulent plants and British Lepidoptera. The species epithet attenuata is Latin for 'tapered' or 'narrowed', referring to the way the leaves taper to a pointed tip.
Haworthiopsis attenuata was first formally described by the German botanist Alwin Berger in 1908. The plant has long been collected from its native range in the Eastern Cape of South Africa, where it grows among rocky scrubland and semi-arid fynbos. It became popular in European and American horticulture through the twentieth century, in part because it proved more adaptable to indoor conditions than many other succulents. The 2013 revision of the Haworthia complex by Bayer and Manning, based on genetic evidence, resulted in Haworthiopsis being established as a distinct genus, separating this species and its close relatives from the broader Haworthia group.
Varieties to know
Haworthiopsis attenuata var. clariperla
Features rounder, more numerous white tubercles that are more evenly distributed across both surfaces of the leaf.
Haworthiopsis attenuata 'Big Band'
A cultivar with particularly pronounced and broad white banding, making the striped pattern more dramatic.
Haworthiopsis attenuata f. variegata
A rare variegated form displaying longitudinal yellow or pale green stripes within the leaf tissue alongside the typical white tubercles.
Fun facts
- Haworthiopsis attenuata was formerly classified within the genus Haworthia and was reclassified into the new genus Haworthiopsis in 2013 based on molecular phylogenetic studies.
- The white tubercles on the leaves are not a surface coating; they are rigid projections of the leaf tissue itself and cannot be rubbed off.
- In habitat, this species often grows in partial shade beneath shrubs or rocky outcrops, which explains its unusual tolerance of lower light compared with most succulents.
- The flower spike can reach up to 40 cm tall and produces small tubular white flowers with pinkish-green veins, though plants rarely flower indoors without a distinct seasonal temperature drop.
- Haworthiopsis attenuata is one of the most widely cultivated succulents in the world and has been a popular houseplant since at least the early twentieth century.
Haworthia FAQ
Why are the leaves on my zebra plant turning brown at the tips?
Brown leaf tips are most commonly caused by underwatering, very low humidity, fluoride or salt build-up from tap water, or physical damage. Try using rainwater or filtered water, ensure the plant is being watered adequately in the growing season, and avoid wetting the leaves. Some browning of the very tips is considered normal on mature leaves.
How often should I water my Haworthiopsis attenuata?
During spring and summer, water roughly once every two to three weeks, allowing the compost to dry out completely between waterings. In autumn and winter, reduce this to once every four to six weeks or even less. Always check the soil is dry before watering rather than following a rigid schedule.
Can Haworthiopsis attenuata tolerate a north-facing windowsill?
Yes, it is one of the few succulents that can cope reasonably well on a north-facing windowsill, though growth will be slower and the plant may become slightly etiolated over time. An east- or west-facing windowsill with bright indirect light is preferable if available.
Is the zebra plant safe to have around cats and dogs?
Yes. Haworthiopsis attenuata is listed as non-toxic to both cats and dogs by the ASPCA and is considered a pet-safe houseplant.
What is the difference between Haworthiopsis attenuata and Haworthiopsis fasciata?
The two species are very similar and frequently confused. Haworthiopsis fasciata has smooth inner leaf surfaces with white tubercles only on the underside, whereas Haworthiopsis attenuata has white tubercles on both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves. Most plants sold as Haworthia fasciata in the trade are actually Haworthiopsis attenuata.
My zebra plant has produced small plants around its base. What should I do?
These are offsets or pups, a natural part of the plant's growth habit. You can leave them in place to form a larger clump, or detach them once they have their own roots and pot them separately. Spring is the best time to do this, using clean tools to avoid introducing infection.
Will my Haworthiopsis attenuata flower indoors?
It can flower indoors but does so infrequently. A cooler, drier period in winter with reduced watering can help trigger flowering in spring. The flowers are small, tubular and whitish with green veining, borne on a slender spike. They are not especially ornamental but are a sign of a healthy, mature plant.