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Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)

Heartleaf Philodendron

Philodendron hederaceum · Araceae

Easy Toxic to pets Low-light tolerant

Philodendron hederaceum is a robust, trailing or climbing aroid native to the tropical rainforests of Central America and the Caribbean. It is one of the most widely cultivated houseplants in the world, prized for its glossy, heart-shaped leaves and its tolerance of a wide range of indoor conditions. In its natural habitat it grows as an epiphyte and hemiepiphyte, sending out aerial roots to anchor itself to trees and absorb moisture.

☀ Light
Bright indirect light; tolerates low light
💧 Water
Allow top 2-3 cm of soil to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
16-29 C
💦 Humidity
40-70% relative humidity preferred
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, peat-free aroid mix
🍽 Feeding
Monthly during spring and summer

Photo: Moheen Reeyad / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Heartleaf Philodendron

Light

Philodendron hederaceum thrives in bright, indirect light and will produce its largest, most deeply coloured leaves under these conditions. It tolerates low light better than many tropical houseplants, making it suitable for north-facing rooms, though growth will slow noticeably and internodes may elongate. Direct summer sun through glass should be avoided as it can scorch the foliage, but a few hours of gentle morning sun is generally harmless.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top 2-3 cm of compost have dried out, then allow excess water to drain freely from the pot. Reduce watering frequency in autumn and winter when growth slows. Overwatering is the most common cause of decline; the roots are susceptible to rot in consistently wet conditions. Always use room-temperature water and avoid leaving the pot standing in a saucer of water for prolonged periods.

Soil and potting

A light, well-draining aroid mix is ideal. A suitable home blend can be made from peat-free multipurpose compost, perlite and orchid bark in roughly equal parts by volume. Good aeration around the roots is more important than fertility; compacted or water-retentive compost promotes root rot. Reputable peat-free mixes formulated for aroids are widely available and perform well.

Feeding

Feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser at half the manufacturer's recommended strength once a month during the active growing season from spring through to early autumn. A fertiliser with a roughly equal NPK ratio or one slightly higher in nitrogen suits the plant's foliage-focused growth. Do not feed during winter when the plant is resting, as unused salts can accumulate in the compost and cause root burn.

Humidity and temperature

This species prefers temperatures between 16 and 29 C and should not be exposed to temperatures below 13 C, even briefly, as cold can cause cellular damage to the leaves. It tolerates average household humidity reasonably well but grows more vigorously when humidity is above 50%. Misting is less effective than standing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles or using a humidifier nearby. Keep the plant away from radiators, cold draughts and air-conditioning units.

Repotting

Repot every one to two years in spring when roots are visibly circling the base of the pot or emerging from the drainage holes. Move the plant up by one pot size only, as an excessively large pot holds more moisture than the roots can take up and increases the risk of root rot. Terracotta pots can help regulate moisture levels but plastic pots are perfectly acceptable. After repotting, water lightly and keep the plant out of direct sun for a few days.

Pruning

Prune to control length, improve bushiness or remove damaged and yellowing growth. Cut stems just above a node using clean, sharp scissors or secateurs. Pruning encourages branching and can be done at any time of year, though spring and early summer are the most productive times as the plant actively grows after cutting. Wear gloves if you have sensitive skin, as the sap contains calcium oxalate crystals and can cause irritation on contact.

Is Heartleaf Philodendron toxic?

Pets: Toxic. Philodendron hederaceum is listed by the ASPCA as toxic to dogs and cats. All parts of the plant contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which cause oral irritation, pain, swelling of the mouth and throat, drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing if ingested. It is also considered toxic to horses.
People: The sap and plant material contain the same calcium oxalate crystals and can cause skin and eye irritation on contact, and mouth and throat irritation if chewed or ingested. Gloves should be worn when pruning or handling cut stems, and hands should be washed afterwards. Ingestion by children should be treated as a medical concern and Poison Control or a healthcare professional consulted.

Common problems

Yellowing leaves, especially lower or older leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged compost leading to root stress or early root rot  Fix: Check the compost and drainage; allow the soil to dry further between waterings and improve drainage if needed. Remove any blackened or mushy roots if repotting becomes necessary.
Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges
Likely cause: Low humidity, over-fertilisation causing salt build-up, or inconsistent watering  Fix: Increase ambient humidity, flush the compost with plain water to remove accumulated salts, and water more regularly to prevent the rootball drying out completely.
Pale or washed-out leaf colour
Likely cause: Too much direct sunlight causing bleaching of the foliage  Fix: Move the plant to a position with bright but filtered light, away from direct sun. New growth will emerge with normal colouring.
Long, leggy stems with small leaves and wide gaps between nodes
Likely cause: Insufficient light causing etiolation  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter location. Prune leggy stems back to encourage bushier growth closer to the base.
Sticky residue on leaves or visible small insects on stems and undersides of leaves
Likely cause: Infestation by scale insects, mealybugs or aphids  Fix: Wipe affected areas with a cotton pad soaked in diluted isopropyl alcohol. For larger infestations, treat with an insecticidal soap or neem-oil solution, repeating every seven to ten days for several weeks.
Fine webbing on leaves with tiny moving dots
Likely cause: Spider mite infestation, typically triggered by hot, dry conditions  Fix: Increase humidity, rinse the foliage thoroughly with water and apply an insecticidal soap or neem-based treatment. Repeat treatments are usually necessary to eliminate all life stages.

How to propagate

Stem cuttings in water or moist compost

Cut a stem section with at least one node and one or two leaves using clean scissors. Place in a jar of water, keeping the node submerged and the leaves above water, or insert into moist perlite or aroid compost. Roots typically appear within two to four weeks in a warm, bright location.

Layering

While the stem is still attached to the parent plant, wound a node lightly with a knife, wrap it in damp sphagnum moss and cover with clear film to retain moisture. Once roots at least 2-3 cm long have developed, cut the stem below the rooted node and pot up independently.

Where Heartleaf Philodendron comes from

Native to Honduras, Mexico Gulf, Mexico Northeast, Mexico Southwest.

Story and origins

The genus name Philodendron comes from the Greek words 'philos', meaning loving or dear, and 'dendron', meaning tree, giving the sense of 'tree lover' or 'fond of trees'. This is a direct reference to the climbing, tree-dependent growth habit of most species in the genus. The specific epithet hederaceum means 'resembling Hedera', the genus of ivies, and refers to the way the plant climbs and trails in a manner similar to ivy. The common name heartleaf philodendron describes the distinctive cordate, or heart-shaped, outline of the leaves.

Philodendron hederaceum was formally described by the German botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott in 1832, though European naturalists had encountered the plant in the Caribbean and Central America considerably earlier. The genus Philodendron itself was first described by Schott in 1829. The species became a popular houseplant in Europe and North America during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when the fashion for growing tropical foliage plants indoors was at its height. Its tolerance of shade and relatively dry indoor air made it particularly well suited to domestic environments of that era, and it remained one of the most commonly sold houseplants throughout the twentieth century. It carries no particularly notable cultural symbolism in the UK but is widely associated with resilience and ease of care in popular horticulture.

Varieties to know

Philodendron hederaceum 'Brasil'

A popular variegated cultivar with streaks and patches of lime green and yellow through the centre of each dark green leaf.

Philodendron hederaceum 'Lemon Lime'

Produces bright chartreuse to yellow-green foliage throughout, a striking contrast to the typical dark green species form.

Philodendron hederaceum var. hederaceum

The velvet philodendron variety, featuring smaller leaves with a velvety dark green surface and reddish-purple undersides; sometimes sold as Philodendron micans.

Philodendron hederaceum 'Silver Stripe'

Has a central stripe of silvery pale green on each leaf, offering subtle variegation compared to the bolder 'Brasil'.

Fun facts

Heartleaf Philodendron FAQ

Why are the leaves on my heartleaf philodendron turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves are most commonly caused by overwatering or poorly draining compost. Check that the top few centimetres of soil are drying out between waterings and that water is not sitting in the saucer beneath the pot. Occasional yellowing of the oldest, lowest leaves is normal as the plant matures and can be ignored.
How often should I water my heartleaf philodendron?
There is no fixed schedule as watering frequency depends on pot size, season, temperature and light levels. A reliable guide is to water thoroughly when the top 2-3 cm of compost feel dry to the touch, which in most UK homes means roughly every seven to ten days in summer and every two to three weeks in winter.
Can heartleaf philodendron grow in low light?
Yes, it is one of the more tolerant houseplants in low light conditions and can survive in north-facing rooms or spots some distance from a window. However, growth will be slow and stems may become leggy. Bright, indirect light produces the healthiest and most vigorous growth.
Is heartleaf philodendron safe to have around cats and dogs?
No. The plant is toxic to cats, dogs and horses according to the ASPCA, as all parts contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. Ingestion causes oral pain, drooling, vomiting and swelling of the mouth and throat. It should be kept well out of reach of pets, or an alternative non-toxic plant chosen if this is a concern.
How do I make my heartleaf philodendron bushier?
Prune the stems back to a node regularly, especially in spring. Each cut encourages the plant to branch, producing a fuller, more compact appearance. Ensuring the plant receives adequate light also reduces the leggy, stretched growth that can make it appear sparse.
Why are the leaves on my plant so much smaller than the ones I see in photographs?
Leaf size in Philodendron hederaceum is strongly influenced by growing conditions. Plants given a support to climb, such as a moss pole, along with bright indirect light and consistent warmth and humidity, will produce substantially larger leaves than trailing specimens kept in average indoor conditions. Juveniles and plants that have recently been propagated also tend to produce smaller leaves until they become more established.
Can I grow heartleaf philodendron in a bathroom?
Yes, a bathroom can be an excellent location provided there is adequate light, at least from a frosted window if not a clear one. The higher humidity typical of bathrooms suits the plant well. Avoid placing it in a bathroom with no natural light at all, as even this tolerant species requires some natural light for long-term health.