Chinese Money Plant
Pilea peperomioides
Pet-safe
Hibiscus
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis · Malvaceae
Moderate
Toxic to pets
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis is a frost-tender, evergreen shrub native to tropical Asia, widely cultivated for its large, showy flowers that come in shades of red, pink, yellow, orange, white, and bi-colours. In its natural habitat it can reach 3 metres or more, but as a houseplant or conservatory specimen it is typically kept much smaller through pruning. Each individual bloom lasts only one to three days, though a healthy plant produces flowers in succession throughout the growing season.
☀ Light
Bright, direct or near-direct sun
💧 Water
Regular watering in growth, reduced in winter
🌡 Temp
15 to 27 degrees C, minimum 10 degrees C
💦 Humidity
Moderate to high, above 50%
🌿 Soil
Fertile, free-draining loam-based compost
🍽 Feeding
Fortnightly with a high-potassium fertiliser during growing season
Photo: Andy / Andrew Fogg from near Cambridge, UK / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
How to care for Hibiscus
Light
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis requires as much bright light as possible indoors. A south- or west-facing window that receives several hours of direct sun each day is ideal. Insufficient light is the most common reason for failure to flower; plants that receive less than four hours of direct sun typically produce sparse or no blooms. Moving the plant outdoors to a sheltered, sunny spot during the summer months greatly improves flowering and overall vigour.
Watering
During the growing season (spring to autumn) water thoroughly whenever the top centimetre or two of compost feels dry, allowing excess water to drain freely and never leaving the pot standing in water. In winter, when growth slows, reduce watering considerably but do not allow the compost to dry out completely. Inconsistent watering, particularly allowing the plant to dry out severely, often causes buds to drop before they open.
Soil and potting
A fertile, free-draining compost is essential. A loam-based compost such as John Innes No. 2 or No. 3, mixed with approximately 20 per cent horticultural grit or perlite, provides good drainage while retaining sufficient nutrients. Avoid peat-heavy composts that stay wet for extended periods, as these encourage root rot.
Feeding
Feed every two weeks from spring through to early autumn using a liquid fertiliser high in potassium, such as a tomato feed, to encourage flowering. Avoid high-nitrogen formulations during the flowering season as these promote leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Feeding can be stopped entirely during winter when the plant is resting.
Humidity and temperature
As a tropical plant, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis prefers temperatures between 15 and 27 degrees C and appreciates relative humidity above 50 per cent. Temperatures below 10 degrees C can cause leaf drop and may damage or kill the plant. Keep it away from cold draughts, unheated windowsills in winter, and drying heat sources such as radiators. Misting the foliage, placing the pot on a pebble tray filled with water, or using a room humidifier all help to maintain adequate humidity indoors.
Repotting
Repot in spring every two to three years, or when roots begin to emerge from the drainage holes. Move up one pot size at a time; excessively large pots hold surplus moisture and can lead to root rot. Once a plant is in a large container, top-dressing with fresh compost each spring is sufficient. After repotting, resume normal watering cautiously until the plant has re-established.
Pruning
Prune in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins, to maintain a compact, bushy shape and to stimulate vigorous flowering shoots. Cut stems back by up to one third, making cuts just above a healthy outward-facing bud or leaf node. Removing spent growth and any crossing or weak branches improves air circulation and reduces the risk of pests. Light tidying can also be carried out after a main flush of flowers.
Is Hibiscus toxic?
Pets: Mildly toxic. According to the ASPCA, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis is considered mildly toxic to cats and dogs. Ingestion may cause gastrointestinal upset including vomiting and diarrhoea. It is not associated with severe systemic toxicity, but contact with a veterinarian is advised if a pet ingests any part of the plant.
People: Generally considered non-toxic to humans. The flowers are edible and used in herbal teas and food in various cultures, though individual sensitivities are possible.
People: Generally considered non-toxic to humans. The flowers are edible and used in herbal teas and food in various cultures, though individual sensitivities are possible.
Common problems
Buds or flowers dropping before opening
Likely cause: Erratic watering, low humidity, sudden temperature fluctuations, draughts, or moving the plant while in bud Fix: Maintain consistent watering and humidity, keep the plant in a stable warm position, and avoid moving it once buds have formed.
Yellowing leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering, waterlogged soil, or occasionally a nutrient deficiency such as magnesium or iron Fix: Check soil moisture and drainage; allow the compost to dry slightly between waterings. If soil conditions are correct, apply a balanced fertiliser or a foliar feed containing trace elements.
Sticky residue on leaves and stems, often accompanied by small insects
Likely cause: Aphid, mealybug, or scale insect infestation Fix: Wipe off insects by hand or with a damp cloth. Treat infestations with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or a suitable systemic insecticide, repeating as needed. Improve air circulation around the plant.
Fine webbing on the undersides of leaves, stippled or bronzed foliage
Likely cause: Red spider mite (Tetranychus urticae), particularly common in warm, dry indoor conditions Fix: Increase humidity around the plant, and treat with a miticide, insecticidal soap, or neem oil. Repeat treatments at weekly intervals until the infestation is cleared.
Wilting despite moist soil, blackened or mushy roots
Likely cause: Root rot caused by overwatering or poor drainage Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, cut away any rotten roots with clean scissors, allow the remaining roots to dry briefly, and repot into fresh, well-draining compost. Reduce watering frequency going forward.
No flowers despite healthy foliage
Likely cause: Insufficient light, too much nitrogen fertiliser, or pot too large Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with direct sun exposure. Switch to a high-potassium fertiliser. If the pot is oversized, consider repotting into a smaller container in spring.
How to propagate
Softwood tip cuttings
Take 8 to 12 cm stem cuttings from non-flowering shoots in late spring or early summer. Remove the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and insert into a free-draining cutting compost. Maintain warmth (around 21 degrees C) and high humidity, ideally under a propagator lid, until roots form after four to eight weeks.
Semi-hardwood cuttings
In mid to late summer, take cuttings from stems that are slightly firmer at the base than softwood cuttings. Treat as for softwood cuttings but expect rooting to take a little longer, typically six to ten weeks.
Where Hibiscus comes from
Native to southern China, possibly Indochina and Southeast Asia.
Story and origins
The genus name Hibiscus is derived from the ancient Greek word 'hibiskos', which was used by the Greek physician Dioscorides in reference to the marsh mallow (Althaea officinalis), a close relative in the family Malvaceae. The specific epithet rosa-sinensis is Latin, translating literally as 'rose of China', reflecting both the flower's visual similarity to a rose and its long history of cultivation in China. The name was formally applied by Carl Linnaeus in his Species Plantarum of 1753.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis has been cultivated in China and across tropical Asia for many centuries, and by the time European botanists encountered it, no wild population could be reliably identified, suggesting cultivation stretching back to antiquity. Portuguese traders and missionaries introduced it to Europe during the 16th and 17th centuries, and it spread rapidly through colonial trade routes to the Caribbean, Africa, and the Pacific. It holds deep symbolic importance in several countries; in Malaysia it was officially designated the national flower in 1960, and it features prominently in Hawaiian cultural iconography, though the native Hawaiian hibiscus species are distinct from H. rosa-sinensis. In traditional medicine across South and Southeast Asia, various parts of the plant have been used to treat ailments ranging from hair loss to fever, and the flowers are still used to make herbal teas and natural dyes.
Varieties to know
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Cooper'
A compact cultivar grown primarily for its ornamental variegated foliage of white, pink, and green, with smaller red flowers.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Cooperi'
Similar to 'Cooper' with highly variegated leaves; often used as a foliage accent plant as much as a flowering one.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'El Capitolio'
Bears large, semi-double blooms in vivid scarlet; a widely grown cultivar noted for its reliable, prolific flowering.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Brilliant'
A classic cultivar producing single, bright red flowers with prominent staminal columns; popular and readily available.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Lemon Chiffon'
Produces large, pale yellow single flowers with a distinctly delicate appearance; an attractive choice for those seeking softer flower colours.
Fun facts
- Each individual flower of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis lasts only one to three days, but a mature plant in peak condition can produce new blooms continuously throughout the growing season.
- Hibiscus rosa-sinensis is the national flower of Malaysia, where it is known as 'bunga raya' and is depicted on coins and official insignia.
- The mucilaginous sap from the leaves and flowers has been used historically in parts of Asia as a natural hair conditioner and as a shoe polish substitute, giving rise to the informal name 'shoeblack plant'.
- The stamens of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis are fused into a characteristic column (the staminal column) around the style, which is a defining feature of the family Malvaceae.
- Despite being widely called Chinese hibiscus and bearing the specific epithet rosa-sinensis (meaning 'rose of China'), the plant's true wild origin is uncertain; it is thought to have been cultivated in China for so long that its original natural range is no longer clearly identifiable.
Hibiscus FAQ
Why are the buds on my hibiscus dropping off before they open?
Bud drop in hibiscus is most commonly triggered by inconsistent watering, low humidity, sudden changes in temperature, cold draughts, or moving the plant while it is in bud. Ensure you water regularly without letting the compost dry out completely, maintain humidity above 50 per cent, and keep the plant in a stable warm position away from draughts.
Why is my hibiscus not flowering?
The most frequent cause is insufficient light. Hibiscus requires several hours of direct sun each day to flower well. Other causes include feeding with a high-nitrogen fertiliser (which encourages leafy growth rather than flowers), a pot that is too large, or not enough warmth. Move the plant to the brightest available spot, switch to a high-potassium feed, and ensure temperatures remain above 15 degrees C.
Can I put my hibiscus outside in summer?
Yes, placing hibiscus outdoors in a warm, sheltered, sunny spot during summer is highly beneficial and usually results in improved flowering and vigour. Acclimatise the plant gradually to outdoor conditions over one to two weeks to avoid leaf scorch. Bring it back indoors before night temperatures drop below 10 degrees C in autumn.
How often should I water my hibiscus in winter?
In winter, watering should be reduced significantly. Allow the top few centimetres of compost to dry out before watering again, but do not let the root ball dry out completely. The frequency will depend on your indoor conditions, but watering once every one to two weeks is often sufficient in a cool room.
Is hibiscus safe to keep around cats and dogs?
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis is classified by the ASPCA as mildly toxic to cats and dogs. Ingestion can cause vomiting and diarrhoea. While it is not associated with severe poisoning, it is sensible to keep the plant out of reach of pets and to contact a veterinarian if you suspect your pet has eaten any part of it.
When and how should I prune my hibiscus?
Prune in late winter or early spring before new growth begins. Cut the stems back by up to one third, making each cut just above a healthy bud or leaf node. This encourages a bushy habit and promotes new flowering shoots. Avoid heavy pruning in autumn or winter as this can stress the plant during its rest period.
Why are the leaves on my hibiscus turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves are most often caused by overwatering or waterlogged compost, which impairs root function and leads to nutrient uptake problems. Check that the pot has adequate drainage and allow the compost to partially dry between waterings. If watering is not the issue, a deficiency in iron or magnesium (both common in container-grown plants) can also cause yellowing; a balanced fertiliser or one containing micronutrients usually resolves this.
