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Lipstick Plant (Aeschynanthus radicans)

Lipstick Plant

Aeschynanthus radicans · Gesneriaceae

Moderate Pet-safe

Aeschynanthus radicans is a trailing epiphytic plant native to the humid tropical forests of Malaysia and Java, where it grows anchored to tree branches rather than in the ground. It is cultivated as a houseplant chiefly for its glossy, dark green leaves and its striking tubular scarlet flowers, which emerge from dark maroon calyces resembling a tube of lipstick being opened. It performs particularly well in hanging baskets, where its long, arching stems can cascade freely.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light
💧 Water
Allow top third of compost to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
18 to 27 C
💦 Humidity
High, 50% or above preferred
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, airy epiphytic or orchid-based mix
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid fertiliser every two weeks in growing season

Photo: Michael Wolf / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Lipstick Plant

Light

Aeschynanthus radicans requires bright, indirect light to thrive and flower well. A position near an east or west-facing window is ideal; a south-facing window can work if the plant is shielded from direct midday sun, which can scorch the leaves and cause them to yellow. Insufficient light is one of the most common reasons for failure to flower, so avoid placing the plant in dim corners. Some exposure to gentle morning sun is beneficial and can encourage more prolific blooming.

Watering

Water moderately, allowing the top third of the compost to dry out before watering again. Overwatering is the most frequent cause of plant failure and leads to root rot. Use water that is at room temperature, as cold water can shock the roots and cause leaf spotting. Reduce watering during winter when growth slows, but never allow the compost to dry out completely. Ensure the pot has adequate drainage holes so water never pools at the base.

Soil and potting

A light, free-draining epiphytic mix suits this plant best, reflecting its natural habit of growing in accumulated debris on tree branches. A mixture of two parts perlite or orchid bark to one part peat-free multi-purpose compost works well. Alternatively, a commercial orchid or African violet compost amended with extra perlite is suitable. Heavy, compacted potting mixes should be avoided, as they retain too much moisture and suffocate the roots.

Feeding

Feed every two weeks from spring through to early autumn using a balanced liquid fertiliser diluted to the manufacturer's recommended strength. Switching to a high-potassium fertiliser (such as a tomato feed) for four to six weeks before the plant's typical flowering period, usually late summer and autumn, can help to promote bud set. Do not feed during winter, as the plant is resting and cannot use the nutrients effectively, and excess fertiliser salts can damage the roots.

Humidity and temperature

As a plant of tropical humid forests, Aeschynanthus radicans appreciates humidity of at least 50%, and ideally 60 to 70%. Standing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, grouping it with other plants, or using a cool-mist humidifier nearby are effective ways to raise local humidity. Misting can be used sparingly but should be avoided if air circulation is poor, as it may encourage fungal issues. Keep the plant at temperatures between 18 and 27 C and protect it from cold draughts, air conditioning vents, and temperatures below 13 C, which cause chilling damage.

Repotting

Repot every two to three years, or when roots are visibly emerging from the drainage holes. Choose a pot only one size larger than the current one, as this plant tolerates and even performs better when slightly root-bound. Spring is the best time to repot. Handle the roots with care as they are relatively fine and brittle. After repotting, water lightly and keep the plant out of direct sun for a week or two while it re-establishes.

Pruning

Pruning is important for maintaining a bushy, floriferous plant. After flowering has finished, cut back the stems by up to one third to prevent the plant becoming leggy and to encourage fresh, vigorous new growth from which next year's flowers will develop. Pinching out the tips of young stems during the growing season also encourages branching. Remove any dead, damaged, or yellowing stems promptly. Clean, sharp scissors or pruning snips should be used to avoid crushing the stems.

Is Lipstick Plant toxic?

Pets: Non-toxic. Aeschynanthus radicans is listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA. It is not known to cause significant harm to pet rabbits or other small animals, though ingestion of any plant material in large quantities may cause mild gastrointestinal upset.
People: Not considered toxic to humans. Contact with the sap may occasionally cause mild skin irritation in sensitive individuals; wash hands after handling.

Common problems

Failure to flower
Likely cause: Insufficient light, insufficient humidity, too much nitrogen, or the plant has not experienced a brief cooler resting period  Fix: Move to a brighter location, increase humidity, switch to a high-potassium feed before the expected flowering season, and allow temperatures to drop slightly to around 15 to 18 C for four to six weeks in autumn to stimulate bud formation
Yellow leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering, waterlogged compost, or occasionally underwatering and extreme drought stress  Fix: Check the compost moisture level; if soggy, allow it to dry out and review watering frequency and drainage. If bone dry, water more consistently. Remove yellow leaves to keep the plant tidy
Wilting or mushy stems and roots
Likely cause: Root rot, typically caused by overwatering or a poorly draining compost  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, cut away any brown or mushy roots with sterile scissors, allow to air dry briefly, then repot into fresh well-draining compost. Adjust watering habits going forward
Brown leaf tips or edges
Likely cause: Low humidity, cold draughts, fluoride in tap water, or fertiliser salt build-up  Fix: Raise humidity, move away from draughts or vents, switch to filtered or rainwater, and flush the compost with plain water periodically to remove accumulated salts
Pale or bleached leaves
Likely cause: Too much direct sunlight causing leaf scorch  Fix: Move the plant to a position with bright but indirect light, away from direct midday or afternoon sun
Sticky residue or distorted new growth
Likely cause: Infestation by aphids or mealybugs  Fix: Wipe mealybugs off with a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol; treat aphids by spraying with a solution of diluted insecticidal soap or neem oil, repeating every five to seven days until the infestation clears

How to propagate

Stem cuttings

Take tip cuttings of 8 to 12 cm in length just below a leaf node, remove the lower leaves, and insert into a small pot of moist perlite or a half-and-half mix of perlite and peat-free compost. Place in a warm position with bright indirect light and cover loosely with a clear plastic bag to retain humidity; rooting typically occurs within four to eight weeks.

Layering

Pin a healthy, intact stem to the surface of a separate pot of moist compost without detaching it from the parent plant, and once roots have formed at the contact point after several weeks, sever the stem from the parent and grow on as an independent plant.

Where Lipstick Plant comes from

Native to Malay Peninsula, Borneo, Java, Sumatra, Thailand, Myanmar.

Asia

Story and origins

The genus name Aeschynanthus derives from the Greek words 'aischyne', meaning shame or embarrassment, and 'anthos', meaning flower, a reference to the red colouration of the flowers, which early botanists likened to the colour of blushing. The species epithet radicans comes from the Latin 'radicare', meaning to root or to take root, referring to the plant's habit of producing aerial roots along its stems, which in its natural habitat allow it to anchor itself to tree bark and other surfaces.

Aeschynanthus radicans was first formally described by the Dutch botanist Carl Ludwig Blume in 1823, based on specimens collected in Java during his extensive surveys of the flora of the Dutch East Indies. The genus had been established slightly earlier by the Scottish botanist David Don in 1822. The plant was introduced to cultivation in Europe during the Victorian era, when the fashion for growing exotic tropical plants in heated glasshouses and Wardian cases was at its height. It became a popular subject for botanical illustrators due to the vivid contrast between its deep maroon calyces and scarlet flowers. Over the course of the twentieth century it transitioned from a specialist greenhouse curiosity to a widely available houseplant, and it remains one of the most commonly grown members of its genus in cultivation today.

Varieties to know

Aeschynanthus radicans 'Rasta'

Distinctive for its tightly curled and twisted leaves, giving it an unusual sculptural appearance even when not in flower

Aeschynanthus radicans 'Mona Lisa'

A popular cultivar noted for being somewhat more tolerant of lower light levels and for producing flowers with good reliability as a houseplant

Aeschynanthus radicans 'Tangerine'

Produces orange rather than scarlet flowers, offering a warm colour variation from the typical red of the species

Aeschynanthus radicans 'Variegata'

Features green leaves edged or splashed with cream or pale yellow variegation, though it tends to grow more slowly than the plain-leaved form

Fun facts

Lipstick Plant FAQ

Why is my lipstick plant not flowering?
The most common reasons are insufficient light, low humidity, and too much nitrogen from feeding. Move the plant to a brighter position, raise humidity to above 50%, switch to a high-potassium fertiliser in late summer, and consider giving the plant a cooler resting period of around 15 C for four to six weeks in autumn to encourage bud formation.
How often should I water my lipstick plant?
Water when the top third of the compost has dried out, which in average UK home conditions typically means every seven to ten days in summer and every fourteen days or so in winter. Always check the compost before watering rather than watering on a fixed schedule, and ensure the pot drains freely.
Can I put my lipstick plant outside in summer?
It can be moved outdoors in a sheltered spot during summer once night temperatures reliably stay above 15 C, which in the UK is generally from late June to early September at the earliest. Choose a position with bright shade rather than direct sun, and bring it back inside well before temperatures drop in autumn.
Why are the leaves on my lipstick plant turning yellow?
Yellow leaves are most commonly caused by overwatering and waterlogged compost leading to root stress or rot. Check that the compost is not sitting wet, that drainage holes are clear, and that you are allowing the compost to partly dry before watering again. Less commonly, yellow leaves can result from extreme drought, very low temperatures, or a severe nutrient deficiency.
Is the lipstick plant safe for cats and dogs?
Yes, Aeschynanthus radicans is listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA. However, eating large quantities of any houseplant material can cause mild digestive upset in pets, so it is still sensible to discourage chewing.
How do I make my lipstick plant bushier?
Pinch out the growing tips of stems regularly during the growing season to encourage branching, and cut the stems back by up to one third after flowering has finished. This stimulates the production of new lateral shoots and prevents the plant from becoming long and straggly over time.
What is the best type of pot for a lipstick plant?
A hanging basket or a pot displayed on a high shelf works best, as the trailing stems can then cascade freely and are shown to their best advantage. Terra cotta pots aid drainage and reduce the risk of overwatering, though plastic pots are perfectly adequate provided drainage holes are present. Avoid pots that are much larger than the root ball, as excess compost stays wet for too long and increases the risk of root rot.

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