Snake Plant
Dracaena trifasciata
Toxic to pets
Lithops Living Stone
Lithops aucampiae · Aizoaceae
Moderate
Pet-safe
Lithops aucampiae is a dwarf succulent native to the Northern Cape and North West provinces of South Africa, where it grows among gravel and rocky quartz fields, mimicking surrounding pebbles to avoid detection by herbivores. Each plant body consists of a pair of fused, thick leaves called a 'window plant', with a translucent upper surface that admits light to the photosynthetic tissue below. In autumn it produces solitary, daisy-like yellow flowers that emerge from the central fissure between the two leaves.
☀ Light
Bright direct sun, at least 4 to 5 hours daily
💧 Water
Minimal; water only in late summer to autumn growing season
🌡 Temp
10 to 27 C; protect from frost
💦 Humidity
Low; tolerates very dry air
🌿 Soil
Very gritty, free-draining mineral mix
🍽 Feeding
Rarely; half-strength cactus feed once in the growing season
Photo: yellowcloud / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
How to care for Lithops Living Stone
Light
Lithops aucampiae requires a position in full, bright sun for at least four to five hours each day. A south- or west-facing windowsill is ideal indoors. Insufficient light causes the plant bodies to become elongated and pale, and flowering will not occur. Supplementary grow lights can be used in winter if natural light is very poor, though the plant is dormant for much of this period and does not actively need intense light then.
Watering
Watering is the most critical aspect of Lithops aucampiae care, as overwatering is by far the leading cause of death. Follow the natural growth cycle closely: water moderately from late summer through to late autumn when the plant is actively growing and flowering. From late autumn through spring, withhold water entirely while the old leaf pair is being absorbed by the new growth forming inside. Resume watering cautiously only once the new pair of leaves has fully emerged and the old shrivelled leaves are completely dry. Water the soil directly, avoiding the leaf bodies, and ensure the pot drains fully before replacing it in its saucer.
Soil and potting
A very mineral-rich, fast-draining compost is essential. A suitable mix consists of approximately 80 per cent coarse horticultural grit or perlite combined with 20 per cent loam-based or cactus compost. Commercial cactus and succulent mixes are generally too moisture-retentive on their own and should be amended with additional grit. Good drainage prevents the root rot to which this genus is highly susceptible.
Feeding
Feed sparingly; at most once during the active growing period in late summer or early autumn. Use a diluted cactus or succulent fertiliser at half the recommended strength. Excessive feeding encourages soft, rot-prone growth and is unnecessary for a plant that thrives in nutrient-poor soils in the wild. Do not feed during dormancy.
Humidity and temperature
Lithops aucampiae is well adapted to very low humidity and will thrive in the dry air of a centrally heated home. Avoid placing it near humidifiers or in bathrooms with high moisture levels. It tolerates temperatures between roughly 10 and 27 C. It can endure brief periods slightly above or below these limits but should not be exposed to frost, which will cause cell damage. Good air circulation around the plant is beneficial.
Repotting
Repot infrequently, as Lithops aucampiae prefers being slightly root-bound and disturbing the roots unnecessarily can set the plant back. Repot only when the roots are clearly emerging from the drainage holes or the plant has outgrown its container, typically every three to five years. Repot in late summer at the start of the active growing season. Choose a pot that is only marginally larger than the previous one, with at least one drainage hole, and use a fresh gritty mineral compost mix.
Pruning
No pruning is required or desirable. The only intervention needed is the removal of the old, fully shrivelled leaf pair once it has been completely absorbed by the new growth. This process should never be hurried; the old leaves supply nutrients and moisture to the new pair forming inside, and removing them prematurely will weaken or kill the plant. Once the old skin is fully dry and papery, it can be gently peeled away if it does not detach on its own.
Is Lithops Living Stone toxic?
Pets: Non-toxic. Lithops aucampiae is not listed by the ASPCA as toxic to cats or dogs. However, individual animals may experience mild gastrointestinal upset if they ingest plant material, and it is advisable to keep the plant out of reach as a precaution.
People: Not considered toxic to humans. No significant toxic compounds have been identified in this species.
People: Not considered toxic to humans. No significant toxic compounds have been identified in this species.
Common problems
Plant body splits, rots, or becomes mushy
Likely cause: Overwatering, particularly during the dormant period when the plant should receive no water Fix: Remove from the pot, allow roots to dry for several days, trim any rotten tissue with sterile scissors, dust with sulphur powder, and repot in fresh, dry gritty compost. Do not water again for at least two weeks and then resume a correct seasonal watering schedule.
Elongated, pale or distorted leaf bodies
Likely cause: Insufficient light, commonly known as etiolation Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with direct sun. Etiolated growth cannot be reversed, but new growth forming the following year will be correctly shaped if light conditions are improved.
Failure to flower despite apparent good health
Likely cause: Insufficient light, incorrect watering timing, or the plant being too young; Lithops aucampiae typically flowers from two to three years of age Fix: Ensure the plant receives several hours of direct sunlight daily, follow the strict seasonal watering cycle, and confirm the plant is mature enough. Patience is usually required.
Old leaf pair not being absorbed; new pair failing to emerge
Likely cause: Watering during dormancy, which interrupts the natural cycle of nutrient transfer from old to new leaves Fix: Withhold all water and allow the process to resume naturally. In some cases the old leaves may need to be very carefully removed once they are fully dry if they are physically preventing the new pair from emerging.
White or grey powdery coating on the leaf surface
Likely cause: Mealybugs, which can colonise the crown and root zone Fix: Inspect the roots and crown carefully. Treat light infestations with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol applied directly to the insects. For severe root mealybugs, wash the roots, treat with a systemic insecticide appropriate for succulents, and repot in fresh compost.
Wrinkled, sunken leaf bodies outside of the dormant period
Likely cause: Underwatering during the active growing season, or root damage reducing the plant's ability to absorb moisture Fix: If it is the active growing period (late summer to late autumn), water carefully and the plant should plump up within a few days. If root damage is suspected, check the root system when repotting.
How to propagate
Seed
Sow seeds on the surface of a moist, very gritty mineral compost in spring or summer at a temperature of around 21 C, covering the pot with clear plastic or glass to maintain humidity. Germination typically occurs within one to two weeks; remove the cover gradually once seedlings are established and grow on in bright light with very careful minimal watering.
Division
Mature plants that have formed clumps of multiple heads can be divided carefully during repotting in late summer. Separate the individual plant bodies, ensuring each division retains a portion of the root system, allow the cut surfaces to callous for a day or two, and pot into a gritty compost mix before resuming a careful watering routine.
Where Lithops Living Stone comes from
Native to South Africa, Botswana.
Story and origins
The genus name Lithops is derived from the ancient Greek words 'lithos' meaning stone and 'ops' meaning face or appearance, referring to the plant's remarkable resemblance to the pebbles and stones among which it grows in its native habitat. The species epithet aucampiae is a Latinised form honouring Juanita Aucamp, the South African woman on whose family's farm in the Northern Cape the type specimen was discovered in the early twentieth century and who brought it to scientific attention.
Lithops aucampiae was formally described by the South African botanist Louis Bolus in 1929, based on material collected from the Barkly West and Postmasburg districts of what is now the Northern Cape province of South Africa. The genus Lithops itself was established much earlier, in 1922, by N.E. Brown of Kew Gardens. The extraordinary camouflage of living stones captured the imagination of European botanists and collectors almost immediately after their discovery, and the genus became a subject of dedicated horticultural study, most notably by Desmond Cole, whose monograph published in 1988 remains a foundational reference work. In their native South Africa, Lithops plants have no significant cultural or folkloric tradition, as the people of the semi-arid Karoo regions where they occur regarded them principally as curiosities rather than useful plants.
Varieties to know
Lithops aucampiae subsp. aucampiae
The nominate subspecies, displaying reddish-brown to marbled grey-brown leaf surfaces with darker windowed patterns and yellow flowers.
Lithops aucampiae subsp. euniceae
A subspecies with a more restricted distribution and subtly different surface patterning, sometimes with more pronounced rugulose (wrinkled) markings on the upper leaf surface.
Lithops aucampiae 'Storm's Snowcap'
A cultivar notable for paler, almost whitish upper leaf surfaces with contrasting darker channel markings, prized by collectors.
Fun facts
- Lithops aucampiae can survive without any supplemental watering for months because the new leaf pair forming inside the old one draws all the moisture and nutrients it needs from the shrivelling outer leaves.
- The species name aucampiae honours Juanita Aucamp, a South African farm dweller who first brought the plant to the attention of botanist Hendrik Fourcade in the early twentieth century.
- In the wild, individual Lithops plants can live for several decades, with some specimens estimated to be over fifty years old.
- The transparent 'window' on the upper surface of each leaf allows sunlight to penetrate to the green photosynthetic tissue buried inside the leaf body, allowing the plant to photosynthesise while remaining largely buried in the soil to avoid heat and moisture loss.
- Lithops aucampiae flowers are self-sterile, meaning cross-pollination between two genetically distinct plants is required to set viable seed.
Lithops Living Stone FAQ
Why are my Lithops splitting open or developing a second pair of leaves at the wrong time of year?
This is almost always caused by watering at the wrong time. If you water during dormancy (late autumn through to late summer), the new inner leaf pair absorbs excess moisture and swells prematurely, splitting the old leaves open before they have been properly absorbed. Follow a strict seasonal watering schedule and withhold water completely from late autumn through to late summer.
How do I know when it is safe to water my Lithops aucampiae again after dormancy?
Wait until the old pair of leaves has been almost entirely absorbed by the new pair forming within. The old leaves should be shrivelled, dry, and papery before you resume watering. If in doubt, wait longer rather than watering too early, as Lithops tolerate dryness far better than excess moisture.
My Lithops has not flowered. What am I doing wrong?
The most common reasons for failure to flower are insufficient direct sunlight and incorrect watering timing. Ensure the plant receives several hours of direct sun each day, particularly in the active growing season of late summer and autumn. The plant must also be at least two to three years old to reach flowering maturity. Following the correct watering cycle precisely also encourages flowering.
Can I grow Lithops aucampiae outdoors in the UK?
Lithops aucampiae can be placed outdoors in a sheltered, sunny spot during warm, dry summer months, but it must be brought inside before autumn rains and cold weather arrive. The UK's wet winters would quickly prove fatal. It should never be left outdoors where it will be exposed to frost or prolonged wet conditions.
How long does it take to grow Lithops aucampiae from seed?
Seeds typically germinate within one to two weeks under warm, humid conditions. However, seedlings grow slowly and will take around two to three years to reach flowering maturity. Careful attention to watering is essential throughout, as seedlings are slightly more tolerant of modest moisture than adults but remain vulnerable to overwatering.
Should I use a terracotta or plastic pot for Lithops aucampiae?
Terracotta pots are generally preferable because they are porous and allow the compost to dry out more rapidly between waterings, reducing the risk of root rot. Ensure any pot used has at least one drainage hole. Plastic pots retain moisture for longer and should only be used with extreme care and a very gritty, fast-draining compost mix.
Is it normal for the old Lithops leaves to shrivel up and look dead?
Yes, this is entirely normal and is a vital part of the annual growth cycle. The shrivelling of the old leaf pair signals that the plant is drawing nutrients and moisture from it to fuel the development of the new leaf pair forming inside. Do not remove or water the plant during this process; simply leave it undisturbed until the new pair has fully emerged and the old leaves are completely dry and papery.
