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Neon Pothos (Epipremnum aureum Neon)

Neon Pothos

Epipremnum aureum Neon · Araceae

Easy Toxic to pets Low-light tolerant

Neon Pothos is a cultivar of Epipremnum aureum selected for its strikingly bright, chartreuse to lime-green foliage that is more vivid than the standard species. It is a vigorous, trailing or climbing aroid native to the Solomon Islands, widely grown as a houseplant for its tolerance of low light and neglect. The leaves are heart-shaped and entirely self-coloured, lacking the variegation seen in many other pothos cultivars.

☀ Light
Bright indirect light preferred; tolerates low light
💧 Water
Allow top third of soil to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
15-29 C
💦 Humidity
40-60% relative humidity; tolerates average household levels
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, peat-free potting mix with added perlite
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid fertiliser monthly during growing season

Photo: Photo by David J. Stang / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Neon Pothos

Light

Neon Pothos performs best in bright, indirect light, which encourages the most intense chartreuse colouration. Placing the plant within one to two metres of a north- or east-facing window is generally ideal in UK homes. It will tolerate lower light conditions reasonably well, though the foliage may become a deeper, less vivid green and growth will slow considerably. Direct summer sun through glass should be avoided as it can scorch the leaves and wash out the colour.

Watering

Water thoroughly until water drains freely from the drainage holes, then allow the top third of the compost to dry out before watering again. In a typical UK home this usually means watering every seven to fourteen days in summer and every two to three weeks in winter. Overwatering is the most common cause of decline; always check the soil moisture before watering rather than following a fixed schedule. Use room-temperature water if possible, as cold water can occasionally cause spotting on the leaves.

Soil and potting

A well-draining, aerated potting mix is important to prevent waterlogging. A suitable blend consists of a peat-free multipurpose compost mixed with approximately 20-30% perlite or coarse horticultural grit. Adding a small amount of orchid bark can further improve drainage and aeration. Avoid heavy, moisture-retentive composts sold for outdoor use, as these raise the risk of root rot significantly.

Feeding

Feed with a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser at half the manufacturer's recommended strength once a month during the active growing season from April to September. A fertiliser with an NPK ratio balanced around 3:1:2 suits most tropical foliage plants well. Do not feed during autumn and winter when growth slows, as unused nutrients accumulate in the soil and can cause root burn. Flush the compost with plain water every few months to prevent mineral salt build-up.

Humidity and temperature

Neon Pothos tolerates the typical humidity levels found in UK homes, usually between 40 and 50%, without difficulty. Higher humidity of 60% or above will support slightly larger leaves and more vigorous growth, which can be achieved with a pebble tray or by grouping plants together. The plant prefers temperatures between 15 and 29 C and should not be exposed to temperatures below 10 C, draughts from open windows, or proximity to radiators. Avoid cold windowsills in winter.

Repotting

Repot when roots begin to emerge from the drainage holes or when the plant shows signs of becoming rootbound, typically every one to two years for younger plants and less frequently as the plant matures. Choose a new pot only one size larger, as an oversized pot holds excess moisture and increases the risk of root rot. Spring is the best time to repot, just as the growing season begins. Refresh the compost entirely at this stage to remove any accumulated mineral salts.

Pruning

Prune stems back to the desired length at any point during the growing season using clean, sharp scissors or secateurs. Cutting just below a node encourages branching and results in a fuller, bushier plant. Remove any yellowed, damaged, or dead leaves promptly to maintain the plant's appearance and reduce the risk of fungal issues. The cut stems can be used for propagation. In winter, limit pruning to the removal of unhealthy growth only.

Is Neon Pothos toxic?

Pets: Toxic. Epipremnum aureum is listed by the ASPCA as toxic to both dogs and cats. All parts of the plant contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which cause oral irritation, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing if ingested. It is also toxic to horses.
People: The calcium oxalate crystals can cause skin irritation and a burning sensation in the mouth if leaves are handled or chewed. Severe poisoning in healthy adults from casual contact is unlikely, but the plant should be kept out of reach of young children.

Common problems

Yellowing leaves
Likely cause: Most commonly overwatering or waterlogged soil; less frequently, underwatering, low light, or nutrient deficiency  Fix: Check soil moisture before watering; ensure the pot has drainage holes; review watering frequency and reduce if soil is staying wet for extended periods
Brown, crispy leaf tips or edges
Likely cause: Low humidity, drought stress, fluoride or salt accumulation in the compost, or proximity to heat sources  Fix: Increase ambient humidity, water more consistently, flush the compost with plain water to leach salts, and move the plant away from radiators
Pale or washed-out leaf colour
Likely cause: Insufficient light; Neon Pothos requires adequate bright indirect light to maintain its vivid chartreuse colouration  Fix: Move the plant closer to a bright window or supplement with a grow light, particularly during the dim UK winter months
Root rot and wilting despite moist soil
Likely cause: Overwatering combined with poorly draining compost, leading to fungal root rot caused most commonly by Pythium or Phytophthora species  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, trim away brown or mushy roots with sterile scissors, dust with powdered cinnamon or sulphur, and repot into fresh, well-draining compost
Small, sticky insects on stems and leaf undersides
Likely cause: Infestation by mealybugs, fungus gnats, or less commonly spider mites, often worsened by dry air or stressed plants  Fix: Wipe mealybugs off with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol; treat spider mites with insecticidal soap; allow compost to dry further between waterings to deter fungus gnats; use yellow sticky traps as monitors
Leggy, widely spaced growth with small leaves
Likely cause: Insufficient light causing etiolation, where the plant stretches in search of a stronger light source  Fix: Move to a brighter position and prune back leggy stems to promote compact, bushy regrowth; the cut sections can be propagated

How to propagate

Stem cuttings in water

Cut a healthy stem section of 10-15 cm just below a node, remove the lower leaves, and place in a glass of clean water in a bright spot. Roots typically appear within two to four weeks and the cutting can be potted into compost once roots reach 3-5 cm in length.

Stem cuttings in compost

Prepare cuttings as above and insert them directly into moist, perlite-rich compost. Cover loosely with a clear plastic bag to retain humidity and place in a warm, bright position; roots usually establish within three to five weeks.

Division

At repotting time, a large, established plant can be carefully divided by separating distinct stem clusters and their associated roots, then potting each section individually into fresh compost. This method is less commonly used than cuttings but produces an instantly sizeable new plant.

Where Neon Pothos comes from

Native to Mo'orea (French Polynesia), Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, northern Australia (Queensland).

Story and origins

The genus name Epipremnum is derived from the Greek words 'epi' (upon) and 'premnon' (trunk), referring to the plant's natural habit of growing upon and climbing tree trunks in its native range. The species epithet 'aureum' is Latin for golden, a reference to the yellow variegation seen on the most common wild-type form. The cultivar name 'Neon' is a modern horticultural designation describing the intensely bright, electric lime-green colour of the foliage, which resembles the luminous quality of neon light.

Epipremnum aureum originates from Mo'orea in French Polynesia and the Solomon Islands, where it grows as a climbing liana in tropical forest. It was introduced to cultivation in Europe during the nineteenth century and spread rapidly as a popular houseplant due to its extraordinary resilience and attractive foliage. By the mid-twentieth century it had been distributed across tropical and subtropical regions worldwide and had naturalised in many of them. The Neon cultivar is a more recent selection, developed and popularised from the 1990s onwards as demand grew for houseplants with unusual or striking leaf colour. In parts of Southeast Asia and China, pothos cultivars are associated with good fortune and prosperity and are commonly kept in homes and businesses.

Varieties to know

Epipremnum aureum 'Golden'

The standard cultivar, bearing mid-green leaves splashed and streaked with irregular golden-yellow variegation; the most widely sold pothos worldwide.

Epipremnum aureum 'Marble Queen'

Heavily variegated in white and green with a marbled appearance; slower growing than Neon due to reduced chlorophyll content.

Epipremnum aureum 'Manjula'

A patented cultivar with broad, wavy-edged leaves showing green, white, yellow, and silver tones; developed by the University of Florida.

Epipremnum aureum 'Pearls and Jade'

Another University of Florida introduction with smaller leaves variegated in white and green, with flecks of grey-green at the variegation margins.

Epipremnum aureum 'Global Green'

A newer cultivar with a mid-green centre and darker green margins, creating a reversed variegation effect compared to most other cultivars.

Fun facts

Neon Pothos FAQ

Why is my Neon Pothos losing its bright green colour and looking more ordinary green?
The vivid chartreuse colour depends on adequate light. If the plant is in a dim position, the leaves will produce more chlorophyll to compensate, which shifts the colour toward a deeper, duller green. Move the plant to a brighter spot with indirect light and new growth should return to the characteristic neon colouration.
How often should I water my Neon Pothos in a UK home?
There is no single correct frequency, as it depends on pot size, light levels, season, and temperature. A practical rule is to water when the top third of the compost feels dry to the touch. This often works out at roughly once a week in summer and once every two to three weeks in winter.
Can Neon Pothos grow in a hanging basket outdoors in the UK?
It can be placed outdoors in a sheltered, shaded spot during mild summer weather, but it must be brought back indoors before temperatures drop below around 12 C in autumn. It is not frost hardy and will be killed by frost. It should never be placed in direct outdoor sun.
Is Neon Pothos safe to keep in a house with cats or dogs?
No. Epipremnum aureum is toxic to cats, dogs, and horses according to the ASPCA. Ingestion causes oral pain, drooling, and vomiting due to calcium oxalate crystals. Keep the plant well out of reach of pets or choose a genuinely non-toxic alternative such as Chlorophytum comosum (spider plant) or Calathea species.
My cuttings have been in water for weeks but the roots are very slow to develop. What can I do?
Ensure the cutting has at least one node submerged in the water, as roots emerge from nodes rather than from the cut stem end. Change the water every few days to keep it oxygenated and free from bacteria. Placing the glass in a warmer, brighter spot will also speed up rooting considerably.
Can Neon Pothos be grown in just water permanently?
Yes, Neon Pothos can be grown hydroponically in water long-term. Change the water weekly to prevent stagnation, add a diluted hydroponic or liquid fertiliser at low concentration every two to four weeks, and ensure the container is kept in a bright position. The roots will adapt to water growing over time, though transitioning an established soil-grown plant can cause a period of stress.
How do I make my Neon Pothos bushier rather than just producing long trailing stems?
Prune the longest stems back to just above a node, which encourages the plant to produce new shoots lower down and results in a fuller appearance. Keeping several cuttings taken during pruning and planting them back into the same pot is a common method of increasing density without waiting for the original plant to branch naturally.