How to care for Parlour Palm
Light
Chamaedorea elegans performs best in bright, indirect light but is notably tolerant of lower light levels, which is one reason it became such a popular houseplant. Direct summer sun, especially through glass, will scorch the fronds and cause them to bleach or turn brown at the tips. A position near a north- or east-facing window, or set back from a south- or west-facing one, is ideal. In very dim spots growth will slow considerably and the plant may become more susceptible to pests.
Watering
Water thoroughly when the top 2 cm of compost have dried out, then allow any excess to drain freely from the pot. The parlour palm dislikes sitting in waterlogged compost, which leads to root rot, but equally it should not be allowed to dry out completely for extended periods as this causes frond tips to brown. Reduce watering frequency in autumn and winter when growth slows, but do not let the root ball become bone dry. Always use room-temperature water; cold water from the tap can shock the roots.
Soil and potting
A well-draining, moderately fertile compost is appropriate. A peat-free multipurpose mix combined with around 20 to 30 per cent perlite or coarse grit works well, providing both adequate moisture retention and the drainage this palm requires. Avoid very heavy or compacted soils. A loam-based compost such as a peat-free John Innes No. 2 with added drainage material is a reliable choice.
Feeding
Feed once a month during the growing season from April to September using a balanced, water-soluble liquid fertiliser at half the manufacturer's recommended strength. Palms are sensitive to fertiliser build-up and salt accumulation in the compost, so avoid overfeeding. Do not fertilise during autumn and winter when the plant is not actively growing. A fertiliser formulated for palms or foliage plants is suitable.
Humidity and temperature
The parlour palm prefers temperatures between 16 and 27 degrees C and should not be exposed to temperatures below 10 degrees C. It dislikes cold draughts and should be kept away from doors, windows that let in cold air, and air conditioning units. Although it tolerates average household humidity, it thrives with a relative humidity of 40 per cent or above. Grouping plants together, placing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, or using a humidifier will help in centrally heated homes where air tends to be dry.
Repotting
Repot every two to three years in spring, moving up only one pot size at a time. The parlour palm has a relatively small, compact root system and does not need frequent repotting; it actually performs well when slightly root-bound. Choose a pot with drainage holes and use fresh, well-draining compost. Take care not to damage the fragile roots when repotting, as injury to the roots can stress the plant significantly.
Pruning
Pruning requirements are minimal. Remove only fronds that are entirely brown or dead by cutting them cleanly at the base of the stem with clean, sharp scissors or secateurs. Do not cut green or partially green fronds as this will not improve the plant's appearance and may cause unnecessary stress. Avoid trimming brown tips back into green tissue as a cosmetic measure, since cut ends will themselves turn brown.
Is Parlour Palm toxic?
Pets: Non-toxic. According to the ASPCA, Chamaedorea elegans is listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs. It is also considered non-toxic to horses. It is one of the safer houseplants to keep in homes with pets.
People: Not considered toxic to humans; no significant irritant properties are documented.
Common problems
Brown leaf tips
Likely cause: Low humidity, inconsistent watering, fluoride or salt build-up in the compost, or cold draughts Fix: Increase ambient humidity, water more consistently, flush the compost periodically with plain water to remove salt build-up, and move the plant away from draughts. Use filtered or rainwater if tap water is heavily chlorinated or fluoridated.
Yellow fronds or leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering, waterlogged roots, or natural ageing of lower fronds Fix: Check the compost moisture before watering; if the soil is consistently wet, allow it to dry further between waterings and ensure the pot drains freely. Lower fronds yellowing with age is normal; simply remove them cleanly.
Spider mite infestation (fine webbing, pale stippling on leaves)
Likely cause: Low humidity and warm, dry conditions favour spider mites Fix: Increase humidity immediately. Wipe fronds with a damp cloth and treat with an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray, repeating every five to seven days for several weeks. Isolate the affected plant to prevent spread.
Scale insects (brown, waxy bumps on stems and fronds)
Likely cause: Common indoor pest; can arrive on new plants or spread from nearby specimens Fix: Remove individual scales by wiping with a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol. For heavier infestations, apply an insecticidal soap or neem-based treatment and repeat as necessary. Inspect neighbouring plants.
Pale, washed-out or bleached fronds
Likely cause: Too much direct sunlight Fix: Move the plant out of direct sun to a position with bright, indirect light. Scorched fronds will not recover but new growth should emerge with correct colouration.
Very slow growth or no new fronds
Likely cause: Insufficient light, low temperatures, being pot-bound for many years, or lack of feeding during the growing season Fix: Move to a brighter position, ensure temperatures remain consistently above 16 degrees C, feed monthly in spring and summer, and consider repotting if the plant has not been moved to fresh compost for several years.
How to propagate
Seed
Fresh seeds, if available, can be sown in a free-draining seed compost at a temperature of around 25 to 27 degrees C. Germination is slow and erratic, often taking one to six months; bottom heat from a propagator aids success significantly.
Division
When repotting, multiple stems growing from the same root mass can sometimes be separated carefully and potted individually. Each division must retain a healthy portion of roots; success is not guaranteed and divisions may take time to re-establish.
Where Parlour Palm comes from
Native to Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico Central, Mexico Gulf, Mexico Northeast, Mexico Southeast, Mexico Southwest.
Story and origins
The genus name Chamaedorea derives from the ancient Greek words 'chamai', meaning 'on the ground' or 'dwarf', and 'dorea', meaning 'gift', a reference to the easily accessible fruits produced close to the ground on these low-growing palms. The species epithet elegans is Latin for 'elegant' or 'graceful', describing the plant's slender, refined appearance. The common name parlour palm reflects its Victorian-era popularity as a decorative plant for the parlours, or formal sitting rooms, of middle-class homes.
Chamaedorea elegans was formally described by the German botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott in 1830, though the plant had been known to European botanists through earlier explorations of Mexico and Central America. It gained considerable popularity during the Victorian era, when the fashion for cultivating exotic plants indoors was at its height, and its tolerance of the dim, draughty conditions typical of nineteenth-century interiors made it particularly successful. In its native Mexico, the Nahua peoples and other indigenous groups have long used its leaves in ceremonial and decorative contexts, and the fronds continue to be harvested from wild and semi-cultivated plants for use in the cut-foliage trade, a practice that has led to conservation concerns for some populations in southern Mexico.
Varieties to know
Chamaedorea elegans 'Bella'
A compact cultivar widely sold as the Neanthe Bella Palm, very commonly available and virtually identical in care requirements to the species.
Fun facts
- Chamaedorea elegans can produce small yellow flowers indoors, even in relatively low light, appearing on slender branching stalks; in the wild, pollination produces small black fruits containing seeds.
- It was one of the first palms to be successfully cultivated as an indoor plant at scale, with commercial production for the houseplant trade well established in Europe and the United States by the early twentieth century.
- The cut fronds of Chamaedorea elegans are commonly used by florists and were historically used in Catholic Palm Sunday celebrations, leading to significant harvesting pressure on wild populations in Mexico.
- Despite its common name, the parlour palm is not closely related to many other plants popularly called palms; within Arecaceae it belongs to the large genus Chamaedorea, which contains over 100 species.
- Chamaedorea elegans has been recognised by NASA-affiliated clean air research as having some capacity to remove airborne pollutants such as formaldehyde and benzene, though the practical effect in a typical home is modest.
Parlour Palm FAQ
Why are the tips of my parlour palm's leaves turning brown?
Brown leaf tips are most commonly caused by low humidity, inconsistent watering, or a build-up of fluoride and mineral salts in the compost from tap water. Try increasing humidity by placing the pot on a pebble tray with water, water more regularly, and occasionally flush the compost with plain water or switch to rainwater or filtered water.
How often should I water my parlour palm?
There is no fixed schedule; instead, check the compost before watering. Water thoroughly when the top 2 cm of compost feels dry to the touch, then allow excess water to drain away completely. In summer this may mean watering every seven to ten days; in winter, less frequently. Never let the pot sit in a saucer of standing water.
My parlour palm is not growing. What should I do?
Parlour palms are inherently slow-growing, so some patience is needed. However, very slow or no growth is often caused by insufficient light, temperatures that are too low, lack of feeding during the growing season, or root-bound conditions. Move the plant to a brighter spot, ensure temperatures stay above 16 degrees C, feed monthly from April to September, and consider repotting if the compost is exhausted.
Is the parlour palm safe to have around cats and dogs?
Yes. The ASPCA classifies Chamaedorea elegans as non-toxic to cats, dogs, and horses, making it one of the better choices for pet-friendly households.
Can I put my parlour palm outside in summer?
It can be moved outdoors in summer in the UK, but only to a sheltered, shaded position. It must not be placed in direct sun, which will scorch the fronds, and it should be brought back indoors before temperatures drop below around 12 to 13 degrees C in early autumn. Sudden changes in light intensity can cause stress, so acclimatise the plant gradually.
My parlour palm has small yellow flowers. Is this normal?
Yes, entirely normal. Chamaedorea elegans can flower indoors, producing small yellow flowers on slender panicles. This is a sign that the plant is healthy and reasonably content. The flowers are not particularly ornamental but cause no harm; if you find them untidy, the flower stalks can be removed at their base.
How do I get rid of spider mites on my parlour palm?
Spider mites thrive in warm, dry conditions. First, increase humidity around the plant. Wipe down all fronds with a damp cloth to physically remove mites and their webbing, then apply an insecticidal soap spray or neem oil solution, covering both surfaces of all fronds. Repeat every five to seven days for at least three to four weeks to break the mite lifecycle. Isolate the plant from others during treatment.