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Pearls and Jade Pothos (Epipremnum aureum Pearls and Jade)

Pearls and Jade Pothos

Epipremnum aureum Pearls and Jade · Araceae

Easy Toxic to pets Low-light tolerant

Pearls and Jade Pothos is a compact, slow-growing cultivar of Epipremnum aureum, developed by the University of Florida in 2009 through irradiation of the 'Marble Queen' cultivar. It is distinguished by its relatively small, heart-shaped leaves patterned with white, grey-green, and mid-green variegation, often appearing in patches and streaks rather than the broad brushstrokes seen in 'Marble Queen'. As a trailing or climbing vine, it suits hanging baskets, shelves, or moss poles, and performs well in typical indoor conditions.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light; tolerates lower light
💧 Water
Water when top 2-3 cm of soil is dry
🌡 Temp
15-29 C
💦 Humidity
40-60% relative humidity
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, aerated potting mix
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid fertiliser monthly in growing season

Photo: Mokkie / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Pearls and Jade Pothos

Light

Pearls and Jade Pothos performs best in bright, indirect light, which helps maintain the clarity and contrast of its variegation. It will tolerate lower light conditions better than many variegated plants, though growth will slow and variegation may become less pronounced in deep shade. Direct sunlight, particularly afternoon sun, should be avoided as it can scorch the lighter portions of the leaves. A position near a north- or east-facing window, or set back from a south- or west-facing one, is generally ideal.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top 2-3 cm of the potting mix has dried out, allowing excess water to drain freely from the pot. Overwatering is the most common cause of decline in this cultivar, so always check soil moisture before watering rather than following a fixed schedule. In winter, when growth slows, watering frequency should be reduced noticeably. Always use room-temperature water and avoid leaving the pot sitting in a saucer of water, as this promotes root rot.

Soil and potting

A well-draining, lightly aerated potting mix is essential to prevent waterlogging. A standard houseplant compost amended with perlite or coarse grit in a ratio of roughly 3:1 works well. The mix should retain enough moisture to sustain the roots between waterings but drain quickly enough to prevent saturation. A slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0-6.5 is appropriate.

Feeding

Feed with a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser at half the recommended strength approximately once a month during the active growing season of spring and summer. Feeding is generally not necessary in autumn and winter when growth slows. Avoid over-feeding, as excess fertiliser salts can accumulate in the soil and cause root damage or leaf tip browning. Occasionally flushing the soil with plain water helps remove any salt build-up.

Humidity and temperature

This cultivar adapts well to typical household humidity levels of 40-60%, though it will appreciate occasional misting or proximity to a humidifier if the indoor air is particularly dry, especially during winter when central heating reduces ambient moisture. It prefers temperatures between 15 and 29 degrees Celsius and should not be exposed to temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius or to cold draughts from windows or air conditioning units. Consistency of temperature is more important than achieving a specific value.

Repotting

Repot when roots begin to emerge from the drainage holes or when growth appears to have stalled despite appropriate care, which typically occurs every 1-2 years. Choose a pot only one size larger than the current one, as an oversized pot increases the risk of waterlogging. Repotting is best carried out in spring at the start of the growing season. Refresh the potting mix fully at each repotting and inspect the roots, trimming away any that are dead or blackened.

Pruning

Prune Pearls and Jade Pothos to control its length, encourage bushier growth, or remove any yellowing or damaged foliage. Use clean, sharp scissors or secateurs and cut just below a leaf node. This cultivar is naturally more compact than many other pothos, so heavy pruning is rarely necessary. Removing any all-green shoots promptly as they appear will help maintain the distinctive variegation, as these shoots tend to be more vigorous and can outcompete the variegated growth.

Is Pearls and Jade Pothos toxic?

Pets: Toxic. Contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to cats and dogs according to ASPCA classifications. Ingestion can cause oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing in both cats and dogs.
People: The same calcium oxalate crystals can cause skin irritation and oral discomfort if the plant's sap contacts skin or is ingested. Keep out of reach of young children.

Common problems

Yellowing leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged soil leading to root stress or root rot  Fix: Allow the soil to dry out more between waterings, ensure the pot has adequate drainage, and inspect roots for rot, removing any blackened or mushy sections before repotting into fresh compost.
Brown leaf tips or edges
Likely cause: Low humidity, fluoride or salt accumulation in the soil, or underwatering  Fix: Increase ambient humidity, flush the soil periodically with plain water to remove salt build-up, and adjust watering frequency to prevent the soil drying out completely for extended periods.
Loss of variegation or predominantly green leaves
Likely cause: Insufficient light, which causes the plant to produce more chlorophyll to compensate  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with more indirect light, and promptly remove any fully green shoots to prevent them dominating the plant.
Wilting or limp stems despite moist soil
Likely cause: Root rot caused by prolonged overwatering or poor drainage  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, trim rotten roots, allow remaining roots to air briefly, and repot into fresh, well-draining compost. Reduce watering frequency going forward.
Sticky residue on leaves or visible small insects
Likely cause: Infestation by sap-sucking pests such as spider mites, mealybugs, or scale insects  Fix: Wipe leaves with a damp cloth to remove pests manually, then treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil spray, repeating every 7-10 days until the infestation is resolved. Isolate the affected plant from others.
Pale, washed-out leaf colour
Likely cause: Exposure to too much direct sunlight, causing bleaching of leaf tissue  Fix: Move the plant away from direct sun to a position receiving bright but filtered light, and remove any severely damaged leaves to encourage fresh, healthy growth.

How to propagate

Stem cuttings in water

Cut a healthy stem section with at least one or two nodes and one leaf, remove any leaves that would be submerged, and place in a jar of room-temperature water in bright indirect light. Roots typically develop within 3-5 weeks, after which the cutting can be potted into compost.

Stem cuttings in compost

Prepare a stem cutting as above, allow the cut end to dry for an hour, then insert directly into moist, well-draining potting compost. Keep the compost lightly moist and provide warmth and bright indirect light; rooting usually occurs within 4-6 weeks.

Where Pearls and Jade Pothos comes from

Native to Society Islands, French Polynesia.

Story and origins

The genus name Epipremnum is derived from the Greek words 'epi' meaning 'upon' and 'premnon' meaning 'trunk', referring to the plant's habit of climbing up tree trunks in its natural habitat. The species epithet 'aureum' is Latin for 'golden', a reference to the golden-yellow variegation found in the most commonly cultivated form. The cultivar name 'Pearls and Jade' was coined by the University of Florida to describe the white (pearl-like) and grey-green (jade-like) patches that characterise the foliage of this particular selection.

Epipremnum aureum originates from the Society Islands in French Polynesia and has been cultivated as a houseplant since at least the early twentieth century, becoming one of the most widely kept indoor plants globally due to its resilience and attractive foliage. The 'Marble Queen' cultivar, the direct parent of Pearls and Jade, became popular in the latter half of the twentieth century for its bold white variegation. Pearls and Jade itself was developed at the University of Florida's Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences and introduced commercially around 2009, representing one of the more methodically produced houseplant cultivars of the modern era. Its compact habit and stable variegation quickly made it a popular choice for collectors and casual growers alike.

Varieties to know

Epipremnum aureum 'Marble Queen'

The parent cultivar from which Pearls and Jade was developed; features broader white marbling on larger leaves.

Epipremnum aureum 'Golden Pothos'

The most widely grown pothos, with solid green leaves splashed with golden-yellow; more vigorous than Pearls and Jade.

Epipremnum aureum 'Njoy'

Another compact, small-leaved cultivar with a similar white and green variegation pattern, sometimes confused with Pearls and Jade.

Epipremnum aureum 'Global Green'

Features green-on-green variegation with lighter centres; a newer cultivar gaining popularity.

Fun facts

Pearls and Jade Pothos FAQ

How do I tell Pearls and Jade Pothos apart from N'Joy Pothos?
Both cultivars have small leaves with white and green variegation, but Pearls and Jade typically shows grey-green or silvery patches alongside the white and green, often with speckled or mottled edges to the variegated areas. N'Joy tends to have cleaner, more clearly demarcated blocks of white and green with less of the grey-green intermediate tone. The differences can be subtle, and they are frequently mislabelled in retail settings.
Why is my Pearls and Jade Pothos growing very slowly?
This cultivar is inherently slower-growing than many other pothos due to the extent of its variegation, which reduces the total chlorophyll available for photosynthesis. Slow growth is also exacerbated by low light, cool temperatures, or underfeeding during the growing season. Providing bright indirect light and feeding monthly in spring and summer should improve the growth rate, though it will never be as fast as less variegated cultivars.
Can Pearls and Jade Pothos grow in low light?
It will survive in lower light than many variegated plants, but growth will slow considerably and the variegation may become less defined. For the best leaf colour and a reasonable rate of growth, a position with bright, indirect light is recommended. Avoid very dark corners where the plant will merely survive rather than thrive.
Is it safe to have Pearls and Jade Pothos in a home with cats or dogs?
No, it is not considered safe. Like all Epipremnum aureum cultivars, Pearls and Jade contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that are toxic to cats and dogs. Ingestion can cause oral pain, drooling, vomiting, and swelling of the mouth and throat. It should be kept well out of reach of pets, ideally in a room they cannot access.
How often should I water my Pearls and Jade Pothos?
There is no fixed schedule; instead, water when the top 2-3 cm of the potting mix has dried out. In a typical warm home this may be every 7-10 days in summer and every 2-3 weeks in winter. Always check the soil with your finger rather than relying on calendar intervals, as frequency will vary with pot size, temperature, humidity, and light levels.
Can I grow Pearls and Jade Pothos in a hanging basket?
Yes, it suits hanging baskets well. Its naturally trailing stems will cascade attractively, and its compact leaf size makes it tidier than larger-leaved pothos cultivars in this setting. Ensure the basket has adequate drainage and be aware that compost in hanging baskets tends to dry out more quickly, so monitor soil moisture more frequently.
Should I mist my Pearls and Jade Pothos?
Misting can temporarily raise humidity around the plant, but the benefit is short-lived. If the air in your home is particularly dry, especially in winter, a small humidifier nearby or placing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles is more effective than misting. Misting can also encourage fungal issues if water sits on the foliage in poor air circulation, so it is not generally recommended as a primary humidity strategy.