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Philodendron Selloum (Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum)

Philodendron Selloum

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum · Araceae

Easy Toxic to pets Low-light tolerant

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, widely sold under its former name Philodendron selloum, is a large tropical plant native to South America, particularly Brazil, Argentina, Bolivia and Paraguay. It produces dramatic, deeply lobed leaves that can reach over 90 cm in length on mature specimens, creating a bold architectural presence indoors or in sheltered outdoor spaces in mild climates. The species was reclassified from the genus Philodendron to Thaumatophyllum in 2018 following molecular research, though the trade name persists widely.

☀ Light
Bright indirect light; tolerates lower light
💧 Water
Allow top 5 cm of soil to dry before watering
🌡 Temp
18 to 29 C; no lower than 13 C
💦 Humidity
50% or above preferred
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, peat-free aroid mix
🍽 Feeding
Monthly during spring and summer

Photo: VSA.bing / Public domain via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Philodendron Selloum

Light

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum thrives in bright, indirect light and will produce its largest, most deeply lobed leaves under these conditions. It tolerates lower light levels better than many large-leaved aroids, though growth slows noticeably and leaves may become smaller and less incised. Direct summer sun through glass can scorch the leaves, so filter strong rays with a sheer blind or position the plant a metre or so back from a south-facing window.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top 5 cm of compost has dried out, allowing excess to drain freely from the pot. Overwatering is the most common cause of decline; the thick rhizomatous stem and roots are prone to rot if kept consistently wet. Reduce watering frequency in autumn and winter when growth slows, but never allow the compost to dry out completely for extended periods.

Soil and potting

A well-aerated, free-draining aroid mix is ideal. A suitable home blend consists of peat-free compost combined with perlite and bark chips in roughly equal proportions to ensure good drainage and aeration around the roots. Avoid dense, water-retentive composts such as standard multi-purpose mixes used on their own, as these hold too much moisture around the roots.

Feeding

Apply a balanced liquid fertiliser diluted to half the recommended strength once a month throughout the growing season from spring to late summer. Feeding is not necessary during autumn and winter when growth is minimal. Over-feeding can cause salt build-up in the compost, leading to tip burn; if this occurs, flush the pot thoroughly with plain water.

Humidity and temperature

This plant prefers humidity of 50% or above, which helps maintain the vigour and size of its leaves. In centrally heated homes, a pebble tray filled with water, regular misting or a nearby humidifier will all help. Keep temperatures between 18 and 29 C for best growth; the plant will tolerate a minimum of around 13 C but growth ceases below 15 C and prolonged cold can cause significant damage. Avoid cold draughts and sudden temperature fluctuations.

Repotting

Repot every two to three years or when roots visibly emerge from the drainage holes and the plant becomes pot-bound. Choose a pot only one to two sizes larger than the current container; excessively large pots hold surplus moisture and increase the risk of root rot. Spring is the best time to repot. As the plant matures it develops a thickening above-ground stem and aerial roots, both of which are normal and should not be removed.

Pruning

Pruning requirements are minimal. Remove yellowing or damaged leaves at the base of the petiole using clean, sharp scissors or secateurs to maintain appearance and prevent the spread of disease. Wear gloves when handling cut stems, as the sap contains calcium oxalate crystals that cause skin irritation. Periodically wiping the large leaf surfaces with a damp cloth removes dust and improves the plant's ability to photosynthesise.

Is Philodendron Selloum toxic?

Pets: Toxic. All parts of the plant contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. According to ASPCA classification, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (listed under Philodendron selloum) is toxic to dogs and cats, causing oral irritation, intense burning and irritation of the mouth, tongue and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. It is also toxic to horses.
People: The sap and plant material can cause skin and mucous membrane irritation in sensitive individuals. Ingestion by children may cause oral pain and gastrointestinal upset. Gloves should be worn when pruning or repotting.

Common problems

Yellowing lower leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged compost causing root stress or root rot  Fix: Check the roots and remove any that are brown and mushy; repot into fresh, well-draining compost and reduce watering frequency, ensuring the pot drains freely after each watering.
Brown, crispy leaf tips or margins
Likely cause: Low humidity, over-fertilisation or fluoride sensitivity  Fix: Increase ambient humidity, flush the compost to remove excess fertiliser salts and switch to filtered or rainwater if tap water fluoride levels are high.
Pale or washed-out leaves
Likely cause: Excessive direct sunlight causing bleaching, or nutrient deficiency  Fix: Move the plant out of direct sun to bright indirect light; if light levels are adequate, begin a regular feeding programme with a balanced fertiliser.
Small leaves with minimal lobing
Likely cause: Insufficient light or lack of nutrients  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with good indirect light and ensure feeding is carried out monthly during the growing season.
Spider mites (fine webbing, stippled leaves)
Likely cause: Hot, dry conditions favour infestations of Tetranychus urticae  Fix: Increase humidity, shower the plant to dislodge mites and treat with an insecticidal soap or neem oil solution, repeating every five to seven days for three weeks.
Soft, rotting stem base
Likely cause: Root rot caused by Phytophthora or Pythium species secondary to overwatering  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, cut away all infected tissue back to healthy material, dust cuts with powdered cinnamon or a suitable fungicide, allow to callous and repot in fresh, dry, well-draining compost.

How to propagate

Stem cuttings

Take a cutting with at least one node and one leaf, allow the cut end to callous for an hour or two and then place it in moist perlite or water until roots form over four to eight weeks. Maintain warmth above 20 C and indirect light for best results.

Division

When repotting, separate offsets or basal suckers that have developed their own root system from the parent plant using a clean, sharp knife and pot each division individually into a suitable aroid mix.

Seed

Fresh seed can be sown on the surface of moist, well-draining compost at around 25 C; germination typically takes two to four weeks but seed viability drops quickly and commercially available seed is often unreliable, making this a slow method rarely used in cultivation.

Where Philodendron Selloum comes from

Native to southern Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Bolivia.

Story and origins

The genus name Thaumatophyllum is derived from the ancient Greek 'thauma' meaning wonder or miracle, and 'phyllon' meaning leaf, a reference to the remarkable size and form of the foliage. The species epithet bipinnatifidum is Latin, meaning twice-pinnately cleft, describing the deeply and repeatedly divided lobes of the mature leaf blade. The long-used synonym selloum, now reduced to a trade name, is thought to have honoured Friedrich Sello (also written Sellow), a Prussian botanist and plant collector who gathered specimens in Brazil during the early nineteenth century.

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum was first formally described by the German botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott in 1856, drawing on specimens collected in Brazil, Argentina and surrounding countries. Schott was one of the foremost aroid specialists of the nineteenth century, describing hundreds of species in the family Araceae. The plant became widely cultivated as an ornamental during the twentieth century, particularly in tropical and subtropical gardens worldwide, and gained popularity as a houseplant in temperate countries from the 1970s onwards. Its bold foliage made it a signature plant of modernist interior design. It remains one of the most widely recognised large-leaved houseplants despite the 2018 reclassification into Thaumatophyllum, a change that has been slow to filter through the horticultural trade.

Varieties to know

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum 'Hope'

A compact cultivar widely sold as 'Philodendron Hope'; reaches a more manageable size than the species and is a popular choice for indoor cultivation.

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum 'Variegatum'

An uncommon form with irregular cream or yellow variegation on the leaves; slower growing and more difficult to cultivate than the straight species.

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum 'Compactum'

A smaller-growing selection with a more upright habit, suited to indoor use where space is limited.

Fun facts

Philodendron Selloum FAQ

Why is my Philodendron selloum sold as a 'Hope' at garden centres?
'Hope' is a cultivar name given to a more compact form of Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum. It is the same species as selloum but grows to a more manageable size, making it better suited to indoor use. The trade name 'Philodendron Hope' persists in retail despite the botanical reclassification.
How big will a Philodendron selloum get indoors?
Indoors in a container, the plant typically reaches 1 to 1.5 metres in height and spread over several years, with individual leaves growing up to 60 to 90 cm long on mature specimens. Growth is significantly larger in outdoor tropical conditions, where trunks and leaves can exceed these dimensions substantially.
Is it normal for my plant to grow aerial roots from the stem?
Yes, aerial roots emerging from the stem are entirely normal and are a feature of the species. They help the plant anchor itself and can absorb moisture from the air. You can direct them into the compost to provide additional anchorage and nutrient uptake, but there is no need to remove them.
Why are the leaves on my plant not deeply lobed like those I see in photographs?
Young plants and juveniles produce leaves with little or no lobing; the characteristic deeply cut, pinnate lobes develop only as the plant matures. Ensuring adequate light and consistent feeding will encourage the production of larger, more fully lobed mature leaves.
Can I put my Philodendron selloum outside in summer?
Yes, it can be moved outdoors to a sheltered, shaded or semi-shaded position once nighttime temperatures reliably remain above 15 C. Avoid direct sun, which will scorch the leaves, and acclimatise the plant gradually over one to two weeks. Bring it back indoors before temperatures drop below 15 C in early autumn.
How is Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum different from Monstera deliciosa?
Although both produce large, lobed leaves and belong to the family Araceae, they are different genera. Monstera deliciosa is a vining plant that typically develops fenestrations (holes within the leaf blade), whereas T. bipinnatifidum is self-heading with deeply cut margins rather than true fenestrations. The two are often confused in retail.
My plant has developed a thick, woody base and is leaning. Is this a problem?
This is natural and expected. As the plant matures it develops a trunk-like stem, and because leaves grow from one side in sequence the plant can lean in the direction of its oldest growth. You can stake it for support or rotate the pot regularly to encourage more even development.