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Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima)

Poinsettia

Euphorbia pulcherrima · Euphorbiaceae

Moderate Toxic to pets

Euphorbia pulcherrima is a woody shrub native to Mexico and Central America, widely cultivated as a seasonal houseplant for its striking coloured bracts, which are commonly mistaken for petals but are in fact modified leaves. The true flowers are the small, yellow cyathia clustered at the centre of the bracts. In its natural habitat the plant can reach several metres in height, though commercially produced specimens are kept compact through the use of growth regulators.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light; some direct winter sun
💧 Water
Water when top centimetre of compost is dry; avoid waterlogging
🌡 Temp
15 to 22 C; no lower than 13 C
💦 Humidity
Moderate; avoid dry air and draughts
🌿 Soil
Free-draining, peat-free multi-purpose compost
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid fertiliser fortnightly once bracts fade

Photo: André Karwath aka Aka / CC BY-SA 2.5 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Poinsettia

Light

Poinsettias require bright, indirect light for most of the year, with some gentle winter sun being beneficial rather than harmful. They should be placed near a south- or east-facing window but shielded from harsh summer midday sun, which can scorch the bracts and leaves. Crucially, to initiate the bract colouration cycle for a second flowering, the plant must receive a strict regime of 14 hours of complete, uninterrupted darkness each night for approximately 8 to 10 weeks in autumn.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top centimetre of compost feels dry to the touch, then allow excess water to drain freely; never allow the pot to stand in water as waterlogged roots will rot rapidly. During the display period in winter, watering requirements are relatively modest. Reduce watering further after the bracts drop, keeping the compost barely moist during the rest period, then increase again when new growth appears in spring.

Soil and potting

A free-draining, peat-free multi-purpose compost is suitable, ideally with added perlite at a ratio of around 1 part perlite to 4 parts compost to improve aeration and drainage. Poinsettias are sensitive to waterlogging, so good drainage is essential. Slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 5.8 to 6.5) is preferred.

Feeding

Do not feed during the winter flowering display. Once the coloured bracts have dropped and new vegetative growth is evident in spring and summer, apply a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser at half the recommended strength every two weeks. Switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium feed in late summer to encourage bract development. Cease feeding again once the darkness regime for reflowering begins.

Humidity and temperature

Poinsettias prefer moderate humidity and will suffer in very dry indoor air, particularly near radiators or other heat sources. Temperatures between 15 and 22 C are ideal during the display period. Avoid placing the plant near cold draughts, open windows, or doors in winter, as sudden temperature drops below 13 C cause rapid leaf drop. A consistent, draught-free position is important to prolong the life of the bracts.

Repotting

Repot in spring once new growth is active, moving the plant into a container only one size larger to avoid excessive soil moisture retention. Use fresh, free-draining compost and ensure the new pot has adequate drainage holes. If you are attempting to reflower the plant year on year, repotting annually in spring is advisable to refresh the growing medium and provide additional nutrients.

Pruning

Once the bracts and leaves have dropped after the winter display, cut the stems back to roughly 10 to 15 cm above compost level in early spring. This encourages vigorous new growth and maintains a compact, bushy habit. Wear gloves when pruning, as the milky white latex sap can irritate skin and eyes. Pinch out the growing tips of new shoots in early summer to promote branching and a fuller plant.

Is Poinsettia toxic?

Pets: Mildly toxic. The white latex sap of Euphorbia pulcherrima can cause mild irritation to the mouth, excessive salivation, and gastrointestinal upset (vomiting, diarrhoea) if ingested by cats or dogs, according to ASPCA classification. The sap may also cause mild skin or eye irritation on contact. Severe toxicity is unlikely, but veterinary advice should be sought if a pet ingests a significant quantity.
People: The sap can cause skin irritation and dermatitis in sensitive individuals; wear gloves when handling or pruning. Ingestion may cause mild nausea and mouth irritation; it is not considered severely toxic to adults but keep away from young children.

Common problems

Yellowing and dropping leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering, cold draughts, or sudden temperature fluctuations  Fix: Check the compost is not waterlogged; move the plant to a stable, draught-free position above 13 C and adjust watering frequency
Wilting despite moist compost
Likely cause: Root rot caused by prolonged overwatering and poor drainage  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, trim away any blackened, mushy roots, allow to dry slightly, and repot in fresh, free-draining compost; improve drainage going forward
Bracts fading or dropping prematurely
Likely cause: Insufficient light, dry air, draughts, or temperature extremes  Fix: Move to a brighter position away from draughts and heat sources; increase ambient humidity slightly by placing a tray of damp pebbles nearby
White, cottony clusters on stems or leaf axils
Likely cause: Mealybug infestation  Fix: Remove visible bugs with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol; treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, repeating every 7 to 10 days for several weeks
Fine webbing on leaves with mottled, pale discolouration
Likely cause: Red spider mite, favoured by hot, dry conditions  Fix: Increase humidity, mist the undersides of leaves, and treat with an appropriate miticide or neem oil; isolate the plant to prevent spread
Failure to develop coloured bracts in subsequent years
Likely cause: Insufficient exposure to the strict long-night (short-day) photoperiod treatment in autumn  Fix: From early October, give the plant 14 hours of complete darkness each night for 8 to 10 weeks, even brief light interruptions will disrupt the process; maintain daytime temperatures around 18 to 21 C during this period

How to propagate

Softwood stem cuttings

In late spring or early summer, take tip cuttings of around 10 cm, allow the cut end to dry for 30 minutes to reduce latex bleed, then dip in rooting hormone and insert into a moist, free-draining propagating mix. Maintain warmth (around 21 C) and humidity under a propagator lid until roots form, typically within 3 to 5 weeks.

Semi-ripe cuttings

In midsummer, take cuttings from slightly firmer, semi-ripe growth and treat as for softwood cuttings. Success rates are slightly lower but the firmer stem is less prone to wilting during the rooting process.

Where Poinsettia comes from

Native to southern Mexico, Central America, Colombia, Venezuela.

Story and origins

The genus name Euphorbia honours Euphorbus, the physician to the ancient Numidian king Juba II of Mauretania, who reportedly used a related plant medicinally. The specific epithet pulcherrima is Latin for 'most beautiful' or 'very beautiful', a superlative of pulcher, reflecting the striking ornamental appearance of the plant. The common name 'poinsettia' derives from Joel Roberts Poinsett (1779 to 1851), the American diplomat and botanist who brought specimens back from Mexico to the United States, after which the plant was taxonomically honoured in his name.

Euphorbia pulcherrima has been cultivated in Mexico for centuries. The Aztecs valued it for practical purposes, using the bracts as a source of reddish-purple dye and the latex medicinally to treat fevers. A Mexican legend associated the plant with Christmas, telling of a girl named Pepita who, too poor to provide a gift for Jesus on Christmas Eve, gathered weeds from the roadside; when placed at the church altar the weeds transformed into the brilliant red-bracted plant. Franciscan friars in Mexico incorporated it into their Christmas nativity celebrations from the 17th century onwards. Joel Roberts Poinsett introduced the plant to cultivation in the United States in 1828, and by the 20th century it had become firmly established as the quintessential Christmas houseplant across Europe and North America, a status reinforced by the large-scale commercial production that began in the mid-20th century.

Varieties to know

Euphorbia pulcherrima 'Prestige Red'

One of the most widely sold commercial cultivars, with large, vivid red bracts and good longevity as a houseplant display

Euphorbia pulcherrima 'Ice Crystal'

White to creamy bracts with a marbled appearance, offering an alternative to the traditional red

Euphorbia pulcherrima 'Jingle Bells'

Red bracts splashed with pink and white speckles, giving a distinctive mottled appearance

Euphorbia pulcherrima 'Cortez Burgundy'

Deep wine-red to burgundy bracts with a velvety appearance and vigorous habit

Euphorbia pulcherrima 'Princettia'

A series bred in Japan producing smaller, more compact plants with delicate pink to hot-pink bracts; marketed as less toxic than standard types, though caution is still advised

Fun facts

Poinsettia FAQ

How do I get my poinsettia to turn red again next year?
From early October onwards, give the plant 14 hours of total, uninterrupted darkness every night (place it in a dark cupboard or cover with a light-proof bag) and bring it back to bright light during the day. Continue for 8 to 10 weeks. Even brief exposure to artificial light during the dark period will disrupt the process. Maintain daytime temperatures around 18 to 21 C throughout.
Why are the leaves on my poinsettia dropping?
Leaf drop is most commonly caused by exposure to cold draughts, temperatures below 13 C, overwatering, or sudden changes in environment such as being moved from a warm shop to a cold car. Ensure the plant is in a stable, draught-free position at a consistent temperature and that the compost is not waterlogged.
Is poinsettia poisonous to cats and dogs?
Poinsettia is classified as mildly toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA. Ingestion of the sap or leaves can cause drooling, vomiting, and mild gastrointestinal upset, but severe poisoning is unlikely. It is best kept out of reach of pets nonetheless, and a vet should be contacted if a pet ingests any part of the plant.
How long do poinsettias last indoors?
With good care, the coloured bracts can last anywhere from 4 to 8 weeks, and sometimes longer. Keeping the plant away from draughts, heat sources, and direct sun, and watering carefully, will prolong the display. The plant itself can be kept alive indefinitely if maintained through the year and given the correct darkness treatment in autumn.
How often should I water my poinsettia?
Water when the top centimetre of compost feels dry, then water thoroughly and allow all excess to drain away from the saucer. Frequency will vary depending on room temperature and pot size, but overwatering is the most common cause of failure. During the post-display rest period in late winter, reduce watering significantly.
Can I plant a poinsettia outdoors in the UK?
Poinsettias are frost-tender and not hardy outdoors in the UK. They may be placed outside in a sheltered spot during warm summer months, but must be brought indoors before temperatures drop in autumn. In their native Mexico they grow as outdoor shrubs, but the UK climate is too cold for permanent outdoor cultivation.
Why does my poinsettia have green bracts instead of red?
Green bracts almost always indicate that the plant did not receive sufficient uninterrupted darkness during the short-day induction period in autumn. Even a small amount of stray artificial light can prevent the bracts from colouring. Ensure the darkness regime is completely light-tight for the full 8 to 10 week treatment period next time.