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Streptocarpella (Streptocarpus saxorum)

Streptocarpella

Streptocarpus saxorum · Gesneriaceae

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Streptocarpus saxorum (often sold under the trade name Streptocarpella) is a trailing, semi-succulent perennial native to rocky outcrops in East Africa. It bears small, lilac to pale violet tubular flowers almost continuously throughout spring, summer and into autumn, making it a rewarding choice for hanging baskets and windowsills. The plant has small, fleshy, grey-green leaves and a naturally cascading habit that distinguishes it from the rosette-forming Cape primroses in the same genus.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light; some morning sun tolerated
💧 Water
Water moderately; allow the top centimetre of compost to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
13-24 C
💦 Humidity
Moderate; around 40-60%
🌿 Soil
Free-draining, peat-free multipurpose compost with added perlite
🍽 Feeding
Balanced or high-potassium liquid feed every 2-3 weeks in the growing season

Photo: NasserHalaweh / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Streptocarpella

Light

Streptocarpus saxorum thrives in bright, indirect light, such as a few metres back from a south-facing window or directly in an east- or west-facing window. A small amount of gentle morning sun is tolerated, but harsh afternoon sun will scorch the leaves and cause the compost to dry out too rapidly. In low light the plant will survive but flower production drops off markedly, so supplemental grow lighting in winter is worthwhile in dimmer homes.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top centimetre of compost feels dry, then allow excess water to drain freely. Streptocarpus saxorum is semi-succulent and stores water in its fleshy leaves, so it is considerably more tolerant of a missed watering than of waterlogged roots. Reduce watering in winter when growth slows, but never allow the plant to shrivel completely. Always use water that is at room temperature, and avoid wetting the foliage, as standing water can promote fungal issues.

Soil and potting

A light, open, free-draining mix is essential. A good recipe is two parts peat-free multipurpose compost to one part perlite, or a commercial African violet compost with added perlite. The roots need both moisture retention and excellent aeration; dense, heavy compost will cause root rot. Slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0-7.0) suits this species well.

Feeding

During the growing season (roughly April to September), feed every two to three weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser or, to encourage prolific flowering, switch to a high-potassium feed (such as a tomato fertiliser at half the recommended strength). Avoid overfeeding, which promotes lush foliage at the expense of blooms. Do not feed during winter when the plant is resting.

Humidity and temperature

This species prefers moderate humidity of around 40-60% and tolerates typical household air well, making it easier to grow than many other gesneriads. Misting is not recommended as it can mark the leaves; instead, stand the pot on a pebble tray with water to raise local humidity if the air is very dry. Keep temperatures between 13 and 24 C. The plant can tolerate brief dips to around 10 C but consistent cold or draughts will cause the foliage to take on a purplish tinge and flowering will cease.

Repotting

Repot in spring every one to two years, or when roots are clearly congested and emerging from the drainage holes. Move up only one pot size at a time, as too large a container encourages root rot. Streptocarpus saxorum performs well in hanging baskets or shallow pots that suit its trailing habit. Refresh the compost mix at each repotting even if the pot size is not increased.

Pruning

Deadhead spent flowers regularly to encourage continuous blooming throughout the season. Periodically pinch out the growing tips of trailing stems to promote a bushier, more compact plant and prevent it from becoming straggly. In early spring, older plants can be cut back quite hard to rejuvenate them, and they will typically reshoot vigorously. Remove any yellowing or damaged leaves at the base promptly to maintain good airflow and reduce disease risk.

Is Streptocarpella toxic?

Pets: Non-toxic. Streptocarpus saxorum is not listed as toxic to cats or dogs by the ASPCA. However, ingestion of plant material in quantity may cause mild gastrointestinal upset in some animals.
People: Not considered toxic to humans; however, as with all houseplants, ingestion is not recommended, particularly for young children.

Common problems

Yellowing leaves with soggy, dark stems at the base
Likely cause: Overwatering leading to root and stem rot  Fix: Remove affected tissue, allow the compost to dry out considerably, and repot into fresh, well-draining mix. Adjust watering frequency going forward.
Wilting leaves despite moist compost
Likely cause: Root rot from waterlogged soil preventing the roots from taking up water  Fix: Check the roots; remove rotted portions, treat with a fungicide if available, and repot into dry, fresh compost with improved drainage.
Few or no flowers despite healthy growth
Likely cause: Insufficient light, too much nitrogen fertiliser, or the plant is pot-bound or resting  Fix: Move to a brighter location, switch to a high-potassium feed, check root congestion, and ensure the plant is not under stress from temperature extremes.
Pale, washed-out or bleached foliage
Likely cause: Too much direct sun causing leaf scorch  Fix: Move the plant away from intense direct sunlight and into bright, filtered light. Scorched leaves will not recover but new growth should be normal.
Small insects on stems and undersides of leaves, sticky residue or distorted growth
Likely cause: Aphids or whitefly infestation  Fix: Treat with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil, covering all leaf surfaces and stems. Repeat weekly until the infestation is cleared. Isolate the plant from others.
Grey, powdery coating on leaves and stems
Likely cause: Powdery mildew fungal infection, often triggered by poor air circulation or fluctuating humidity  Fix: Improve ventilation around the plant, avoid wetting the foliage, and treat with a sulphur-based or potassium bicarbonate fungicide. Remove heavily affected leaves.

How to propagate

Stem tip cuttings

Take 5-8 cm tip cuttings in spring or summer, remove the lower leaves, and insert into a moist, free-draining cuttings compost. Place in a warm, bright spot out of direct sun; roots typically form within 3-5 weeks.

Leaf cuttings

Remove a healthy, mature leaf with its petiole intact and insert the petiole into moist cuttings compost at a slight angle. Keep warm and covered to maintain humidity; small plantlets will emerge at the base of the petiole within several weeks.

Division

When repotting a mature, multi-stemmed plant, the root ball can be carefully divided into two or more sections, each with healthy shoots and roots. Pot each division individually into fresh compost and water sparingly until established.

Where Streptocarpella comes from

Native to Tanzania, Kenya.

Story and origins

The genus name Streptocarpus derives from the Greek words 'streptos', meaning twisted, and 'karpos', meaning fruit, referring to the distinctive spirally twisted seed capsules characteristic of the genus. The species epithet saxorum comes from the Latin 'saxum', meaning rock or stone, combined with the genitive plural suffix '-orum', giving the sense 'of the rocks' or 'rock-dwelling'. Together, the full name describes a twisted-fruited plant found growing on rocky substrates, which accurately reflects both its reproductive structures and its preferred wild habitat on cliff faces and rocky outcrops in East Africa.

Streptocarpus saxorum was first formally described by the British botanist Arthur Dallimore Millar in 1939, based on specimens collected from rocky habitats in what is now Tanzania and Kenya. The genus Streptocarpus as a whole has a long history of cultivation in Europe, with the first Cape primroses reaching Britain from southern Africa in the early nineteenth century. S. saxorum arrived in the European horticultural trade considerably later than its southern African relatives and gained popularity primarily as a basket plant from the mid-twentieth century onward, valued for its trailing stems and remarkably long flowering season. It is frequently sold under the informal trade name 'Streptocarpella', a name that has no formal botanical standing but has become widely used in the retail houseplant trade to distinguish this trailing, multi-leaved species from the rosette-forming Cape primroses.

Varieties to know

Streptocarpus saxorum 'Concord Blue'

A widely available cultivar with slightly deeper blue-violet flowers, often used in hanging baskets.

Streptocarpus saxorum 'White'

A white-flowered form with the same trailing habit; less commonly available than the lilac types.

Fun facts

Streptocarpella FAQ

Why has my Streptocarpella stopped flowering?
The most common causes are insufficient light, overfeeding with a high-nitrogen fertiliser that promotes foliage over flowers, or the plant being too pot-bound or too cold. Move it to a brighter spot, switch to a high-potassium feed, and check whether it needs repotting.
How often should I water my Streptocarpella?
Water when the top centimetre of compost has dried out, then water thoroughly and allow excess to drain. In summer this may be every 5-7 days; in winter every 10-14 days or longer. The frequency depends more on your conditions than a fixed schedule, so always check the compost before watering.
Can I grow Streptocarpella outdoors in the UK?
It can be placed outdoors in a sheltered spot during frost-free summer months, but it must be brought inside before temperatures drop below about 10 C. It is not frost-hardy and will not survive a UK winter outside.
Is Streptocarpella the same as an African violet?
No. Although they are in the same family (Gesneriaceae) and have superficially similar flowers, Streptocarpus saxorum and African violets (Saintpaulia species) are distinct plants. Streptocarpella has trailing stems and smaller, tubular flowers, whereas African violets form compact rosettes with flatter, more open blooms.
What is the best compost for Streptocarpella?
Use a light, free-draining mix. A good option is two parts peat-free multipurpose compost combined with one part perlite, or a commercially prepared African violet compost with extra perlite added. Heavy or compacted compost will cause root rot.
Why are the leaves on my Streptocarpella turning purple or bronze?
Purplish or bronze discolouration of the foliage is usually a stress response to cold temperatures or draughts. Move the plant to a warmer, draught-free location and the new growth should return to its normal grey-green colour.
How do I make my Streptocarpella bushier instead of long and straggly?
Pinch out the growing tips of long stems regularly throughout the growing season. This encourages branching and a denser, more compact growth habit. An annual hard cut-back in early spring also helps rejuvenate older, leggy plants.