Peace Lily
Spathiphyllum wallisii
Toxic to pets
Stromanthe Triostar
Stromanthe sanguinea · Marantaceae
Moderate
Pet-safe
Stromanthe sanguinea 'Triostar' is a striking foliage plant native to the tropical rainforests of Brazil. Its lance-shaped leaves display a mosaic of cream, pink, and green on the upper surface, with deep magenta undersides that are revealed as the leaves fold upwards in the evening. It belongs to the Marantaceae family and shares the characteristic nyctinastic leaf movement of its relatives.
☀ Light
Bright indirect light
💧 Water
Keep consistently moist, never waterlogged
🌡 Temp
18 to 27 C
💦 Humidity
High, 60% or above preferred
🌿 Soil
Peat-free, moisture-retentive but well-draining mix
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid feed every two to four weeks in the growing season
Photo: Hardyplants / CC0 via Wikimedia Commons
How to care for Stromanthe Triostar
Light
Stromanthe 'Triostar' requires bright, indirect light to maintain its vivid variegation. Direct sun will scorch the leaves and cause the colours to fade, while too little light results in predominantly green foliage and slow growth. A position near an east- or north-facing window, or set back from a south- or west-facing window with a sheer curtain, is ideal. Rotating the pot periodically helps ensure even growth on all sides.
Watering
The compost should be kept evenly moist during the growing season from spring through to early autumn, watering when the top centimetre of soil feels dry. Reduce watering frequency in winter when growth slows, but never allow the root ball to dry out completely. Stromanthe is sensitive to the chemicals in tap water, particularly fluoride and chlorine; using rainwater or filtered water at room temperature will help prevent leaf tip browning. Always ensure excess water drains freely to prevent root rot.
Soil and potting
A peat-free, well-draining yet moisture-retentive compost is best suited to this plant. A suitable mix can be made by combining two parts general houseplant compost with one part perlite and one part coir fibre. Good aeration around the roots is important, as compacted or waterlogged soil leads quickly to root rot. Slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH of around 6.0 to 6.5 is preferred.
Feeding
Feed with a balanced, water-soluble liquid fertiliser diluted to half strength every two to four weeks during the active growing season from spring to early autumn. Avoid feeding in winter when the plant is not actively growing, as excess nutrients in cold, low-light conditions can lead to salt build-up in the soil and root damage. Flushing the soil with plain water every month or so during the feeding season helps prevent salt accumulation.
Humidity and temperature
As a tropical species, Stromanthe 'Triostar' thrives in high humidity levels of 60 per cent or above. In typical UK home environments, humidity can be low, especially in winter when central heating is running. Placing the pot on a tray of damp gravel, grouping it with other plants, or using a humidifier nearby will all help raise local humidity. The plant prefers temperatures between 18 and 27 C and should be kept away from cold draughts, radiators, and air conditioning units. It will not tolerate temperatures below 15 C.
Repotting
Repot every two to three years in spring when roots begin to emerge from the drainage holes or the plant appears pot-bound. Move up only one pot size at a time, as too large a pot can lead to overwatering problems. Handle the roots gently during repotting, as they can be somewhat fragile. After repotting, water thoroughly and keep the plant out of direct sun for a week or two to allow it to settle.
Pruning
Pruning requirements are minimal. Remove dead, damaged, or yellowing leaves by cutting them cleanly at the base of the petiole with clean scissors or secateurs. Cutting back older stems to the base can occasionally encourage fresh, healthy new growth. Removing spent flower spikes if they appear will redirect the plant's energy into foliage production.
Is Stromanthe Triostar toxic?
Pets: Non-toxic. Stromanthe sanguinea is listed by the ASPCA as non-toxic to cats and dogs. It is also considered non-toxic to horses. While it poses no known toxic risk, ingestion of plant material may still cause mild gastrointestinal upset in some animals.
People: Not considered toxic to humans. Contact with the sap may occasionally cause mild skin irritation in sensitive individuals; washing hands after handling is a sensible precaution.
People: Not considered toxic to humans. Contact with the sap may occasionally cause mild skin irritation in sensitive individuals; washing hands after handling is a sensible precaution.
Common problems
Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges
Likely cause: Low humidity, fluoride or chlorine in tap water, or irregular watering Fix: Increase humidity, switch to rainwater or filtered water, and maintain consistent soil moisture. Trim affected tips with clean scissors.
Yellowing lower leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged compost leading to root rot Fix: Check the root system, remove any rotted roots, allow the soil to dry out slightly, and ensure the pot has adequate drainage. Reduce watering frequency.
Fading or bleached foliage
Likely cause: Too much direct sunlight or placement in excessively bright conditions Fix: Move the plant to a position with bright but indirect light. Avoid windowsills that receive direct afternoon sun.
Curling or rolling leaves
Likely cause: Underwatering, low humidity, or exposure to cold draughts Fix: Water the plant thoroughly, mist the leaves, increase ambient humidity, and move the plant away from draughts or cold windows.
Spider mite infestation (fine webbing, stippled leaves)
Likely cause: Hot, dry indoor conditions that favour spider mite reproduction Fix: Increase humidity, wipe leaves with a damp cloth, and treat with an appropriate insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. Repeat treatments every five to seven days for several weeks.
Limp, mushy stems at the base
Likely cause: Severe overwatering resulting in root and stem rot Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, trim away all rotted roots and stems with sterile tools, allow to dry briefly, and repot into fresh, dry compost. Improve watering practices going forward.
How to propagate
Division
The most reliable method is to divide the plant at repotting time in spring. Gently separate the rhizome clumps by hand or with a clean knife, ensuring each division has at least two to three healthy stems and an intact root system. Pot each division into fresh compost, water lightly, and keep in a warm, humid spot until established.
Stem cuttings
Take a stem cutting with at least one or two leaves and a short section of stem below a node. Place the cutting in a small pot of moist perlite or a peat-free cutting compost, cover loosely with a plastic bag to retain humidity, and keep in a warm position with indirect light. Rooting can take four to eight weeks and is not always reliable compared with division.
Where Stromanthe Triostar comes from
Native to Brazil.
Story and origins
The genus name Stromanthe is derived from the Greek 'stroma', meaning a bed or mattress, and 'anthos', meaning flower, referring to the flattened, bed-like arrangement of the coloured bracts that subtend the flowers. The species epithet 'sanguinea' comes from the Latin 'sanguis', meaning blood, and refers to the blood-red colouring of the stems, bracts, and the undersides of the leaves. The cultivar name 'Triostar' is a trade name reflecting the three colours prominent in the foliage: green, cream, and pink.
Stromanthe sanguinea was first described botanically in the nineteenth century and is native to the Atlantic Forest biome of Brazil. Plants in the Marantaceae family have long had cultural significance in tropical regions, where the large leaves of related species have been used for wrapping food and weaving baskets. The genus Stromanthe was established by Sonder in 1855. The 'Triostar' cultivar was developed through selective cultivation to emphasise the naturally occurring variegation seen in some individuals of the species, and it rose to widespread commercial popularity in Europe and North America from the 1990s onwards as demand for colourful, non-flowering foliage houseplants increased.
Varieties to know
Stromanthe sanguinea 'Triostar'
The most widely cultivated cultivar, featuring cream, green, and pink variegation on the upper leaf surface with bold magenta undersides.
Stromanthe sanguinea 'Magic Star'
Similar to 'Triostar' but with more pronounced pink colouring and slightly different patterning; sometimes sold under the same common name.
Stromanthe sanguinea (species form)
The unselected species has predominantly green leaves with a pale midrib and magenta undersides, lacking the cream and pink variegation of cultivated forms.
Fun facts
- The vivid magenta undersides of the leaves are thought to help the plant capture reflected light from the forest floor in its native Brazilian rainforest habitat.
- Like other members of Marantaceae, Stromanthe sanguinea exhibits nyctinasty, folding its leaves upwards at night in a movement sometimes described as prayer, a trait shared with Calathea and Maranta species.
- The red bracts produced by the plant in its native habitat and in greenhouse conditions are an adaptation to attract hummingbird pollinators.
- The genus name Stromanthe derives from the Greek words 'stroma' (bed or mattress) and 'anthos' (flower), referring to the arrangement of the floral bracts.
- Stromanthe sanguinea can produce small white flowers held on branching red stems when grown in optimal conditions, though flowering is uncommon in typical household environments.
Stromanthe Triostar FAQ
Why are the leaves on my Stromanthe Triostar curling?
Curling leaves are most commonly a response to low humidity, underwatering, or exposure to cold draughts. Try watering the plant if the soil is dry, move it away from any draughts or heating vents, and increase the humidity around it using a pebble tray or humidifier.
Why does my Triostar have brown leaf tips?
Brown tips are typically caused by low humidity, watering with fluoride- or chlorine-rich tap water, or inconsistent watering. Switching to rainwater or filtered water, maintaining higher humidity, and keeping the soil evenly moist usually resolves the issue. Existing brown tips will not revert to green and can be trimmed back neatly.
How often should I water my Stromanthe Triostar?
There is no fixed schedule, as frequency depends on pot size, temperature, and season. Water when the top centimetre of compost feels dry to the touch, ensuring the pot drains fully after each watering. In summer this may be every five to seven days; in winter every ten to fourteen days is often sufficient.
Is Stromanthe Triostar safe for cats and dogs?
Yes, Stromanthe sanguinea is listed as non-toxic to cats, dogs, and horses by the ASPCA. However, ingestion of any plant material can sometimes cause mild stomach upset in pets, so it is still sensible to discourage chewing.
Why is my Triostar losing its pink and cream variegation?
Loss of variegation is almost always caused by insufficient light. Move the plant to a brighter position with good indirect light to encourage the pink and cream patterning to return on new leaves. Note that existing fully green leaves will not revert.
Does Stromanthe Triostar move its leaves?
Yes. Like other members of the Marantaceae family, Stromanthe 'Triostar' exhibits nyctinasty, folding its leaves upward in the evening and lowering them again during the day. This movement is driven by changes in turgor pressure in specialised cells at the base of each leaf stalk and is entirely normal.
Will my Stromanthe Triostar flower indoors?
It is possible but uncommon in typical UK home conditions. In its native habitat and in warm glasshouses, the plant produces small white flowers on branching stems with colourful red bracts, usually in late winter to spring. Most householders grow it purely for its ornamental foliage.
