HomePlants › Swiss Cheese Vine
Swiss Cheese Vine (Monstera adansonii)

Swiss Cheese Vine

Monstera adansonii · Araceae

Easy Toxic to pets

Monstera adansonii is a tropical climbing or trailing vine native to Central and South America, where it grows through the understorey of humid rainforests. It is closely related to Monstera deliciosa but remains considerably smaller, producing ovate leaves liberally perforated with oval fenestrations rather than the split margins seen in its larger cousin. The plant is popular as a houseplant for its distinctive foliage and its tolerance of typical indoor conditions.

☀ Light
Bright, indirect light
💧 Water
Allow top 2-3 cm of soil to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
18-27 C
💦 Humidity
50% or above preferred
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, aerated potting mix
🍽 Feeding
Monthly in spring and summer with balanced liquid fertiliser

Photo: Jacob Rehage / CC0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Swiss Cheese Vine

Light

Monstera adansonii grows best in bright, indirect light, such as that found a metre or two back from a south- or east-facing window screened by a sheer curtain. It can adapt to moderate light levels but growth will slow and the characteristic leaf fenestrations may be less pronounced. Direct summer sun, particularly through glass, will scorch the foliage and should be avoided.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top 2-3 cm of compost have dried out, allowing excess to drain freely through the pot. Reduce watering frequency in autumn and winter when growth slows. Overwatering is the most common cause of decline; soggy compost encourages root rot, so never allow the plant to sit in standing water for prolonged periods.

Soil and potting

A well-draining, peat-free potting mix is ideal. A suitable blend consists of a general houseplant compost combined with perlite or coarse grit at roughly a 2:1 ratio to improve aeration and drainage. The roots need sufficient oxygen, so compacted or heavy soils should be avoided.

Feeding

Feed once a month during the active growing season (spring through to early autumn) with a balanced liquid fertiliser diluted to the manufacturer's recommended strength. No feeding is necessary during winter when the plant is largely dormant. Avoid over-fertilising, as salt build-up in the compost can damage roots.

Humidity and temperature

As a tropical species, Monstera adansonii prefers relative humidity of 50% or above. In drier homes, placing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, grouping it with other plants, or using a room humidifier will help. Keep the plant at temperatures between 18 and 27 C and protect it from cold draughts, open windows in winter, and temperatures below about 13 C, which can cause cold stress and leaf damage.

Repotting

Repot every one to two years in spring when roots begin to circle the base of the pot or emerge from drainage holes. Move up one pot size (typically 2-3 cm larger in diameter) to avoid an excessively large volume of compost that retains moisture around the roots. Use fresh potting mix at repotting to replenish nutrients and improve soil structure.

Pruning

Pruning is not strictly necessary but can be carried out in spring or early summer to control the plant's length, encourage bushier growth, or remove any damaged, yellowed, or dead stems. Cut cleanly just above a node using sterilised scissors or pruning shears. Removed healthy stem sections can be used for propagation.

Is Swiss Cheese Vine toxic?

Pets: Toxic. Monstera adansonii contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals throughout its tissues. According to ASPCA classifications, it is toxic to cats and dogs; ingestion can cause oral irritation, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. It is also considered toxic to horses.
People: The same calcium oxalate crystals can cause irritation of the mouth, throat, and skin in humans if ingested or handled extensively. Contact with sap may cause mild dermatitis in sensitive individuals. The plant should be kept out of reach of young children.

Common problems

Yellowing leaves
Likely cause: Most commonly caused by overwatering or waterlogged compost; occasionally linked to nutrient deficiency or natural ageing of lower leaves  Fix: Check the compost and allow it to dry appropriately before watering again; ensure the pot has adequate drainage. If nutrient deficiency is suspected, begin a regular feeding programme in the growing season.
Brown, crispy leaf edges or tips
Likely cause: Low humidity, underwatering, or exposure to cold draughts  Fix: Increase ambient humidity using a humidifier or pebble tray, ensure watering is consistent, and move the plant away from draughts or cold windowsills.
Root rot
Likely cause: Consistently waterlogged compost, often combined with a pot lacking adequate drainage holes  Fix: Remove the plant from its pot, trim any blackened or mushy roots with sterilised scissors, allow the root ball to dry briefly, and repot into fresh well-draining compost in a pot with drainage holes. Adjust the watering regime.
Spider mite infestation
Likely cause: Spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) thrive in warm, dry indoor conditions and are a common pest on this species  Fix: Isolate the affected plant. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth to remove mites and webbing, then treat with an insecticidal soap or neem oil solution, repeating every 5-7 days for several weeks. Increasing humidity helps deter further outbreaks.
Leggy growth with small, poorly fenestrated leaves
Likely cause: Insufficient light  Fix: Move the plant to a brighter position with good indirect light. Growth will gradually improve as light levels increase.
Scale insects or mealybugs on stems and leaf undersides
Likely cause: Sap-sucking insect pests that can proliferate quickly indoors  Fix: Remove visible pests manually using a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, then apply insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. Inspect regularly and repeat treatments as necessary until the infestation clears.

How to propagate

Stem cuttings in water

Cut a healthy stem section of 10-15 cm containing at least one node and one or two leaves. Place the cutting in a jar of clean water, ensuring the node is submerged but leaves remain above the waterline. Keep in a warm, bright spot and change the water every few days; roots typically appear within 3-6 weeks, after which the cutting can be potted into compost.

Stem cuttings in compost

Prepare a stem cutting as above and insert it directly into a small pot of moist, well-draining potting mix, ensuring the node is buried. Cover loosely with a clear plastic bag to retain humidity, place in a warm position with bright indirect light, and roots should establish within 4-8 weeks.

Air layering

Select a healthy stem with a visible node, make a shallow upward cut or remove a small ring of bark just below the node, pack damp sphagnum moss around the wounded area, and wrap tightly with clear polythene film secured at both ends. Roots will grow into the moss over several weeks; once well-developed, cut the stem below the rooted section and pot it up.

Where Swiss Cheese Vine comes from

Native to Bolivia, Brazil North, Brazil Northeast, Brazil South, Brazil Southeast, Brazil West-Central, Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, French Guiana, Guyana, Leeward Is., Netherlands Antilles, Nicaragua, Panamá, Peru, Suriname, Trinidad-Tobago, Venezuela, Windward Is.. Now naturalised or cultivated in 1 other regions worldwide.

Story and origins

The genus name Monstera is believed to derive from the Latin word 'monstrum', meaning monster or marvel, likely a reference to the striking, perforated appearance of the leaves, which early European botanists found extraordinary. The species epithet 'adansonii' is a Latinised patronym honouring Michel Adanson (1727-1806), a French-Scottish naturalist and botanist who was among the first to formally describe the species from specimens collected in tropical America. Together, the full name translates roughly as 'Adanson's marvel'.

Monstera adansonii was first described scientifically by Michel Adanson in 1763 based on material from South America, and the species was subsequently further documented as botanical exploration of the New World tropics expanded in the 18th and 19th centuries. For much of the 20th century it remained less prominent in horticulture than its better-known relative Monstera deliciosa, but it gained considerable popularity as a houseplant from the 2010s onwards, partly driven by the broader resurgence of interest in tropical foliage plants and partly by its relatively compact size making it suitable for smaller homes. In its native regions across Central and South America it grows as part of the understorey flora of humid tropical forests, climbing trees without significant cultural symbolism attached to it in the way that some other tropical plants have acquired.

Varieties to know

Monstera adansonii 'Variegata'

A variegated form bearing irregular patches or streaks of white or cream on the foliage; considerably slower growing than the species type and rarer in cultivation.

Monstera adansonii 'Archipelago'

A highly sought-after variegated cultivar with bold, block-like sections of white variegation on the leaves; commands high prices due to its scarcity.

Monstera adansonii var. laniata

A naturally occurring variety with slightly larger, more elongated leaves and fenestrations that tend to be positioned closer to the leaf margin; sometimes sold as a distinct plant in specialist nurseries.

Fun facts

Swiss Cheese Vine FAQ

Why does my Swiss Cheese Vine have few or no holes in its leaves?
Fenestrations tend to be more numerous and pronounced on mature leaves and on plants receiving adequate bright, indirect light. Young plants and juvenile leaves are often relatively whole. If your plant is producing unperforated leaves consistently, move it to a brighter position and ensure it is receiving regular feeding during the growing season.
How often should I water my Monstera adansonii?
There is no fixed schedule; instead, check the compost and water when the top 2-3 cm have dried out. In a warm home during summer this may mean watering every 5-7 days, while in winter it could be once every two weeks or less. Always allow excess water to drain away fully.
Can I grow Monstera adansonii as a hanging plant?
Yes. If not given a support to climb, the plant will trail attractively from a hanging basket or a high shelf. However, it grows most vigorously and produces larger, more fenestrated leaves when given a moss pole or other structure to climb, as this mimics its natural behaviour.
Is Monstera adansonii the same as Monstera deliciosa?
No, they are distinct species. Monstera deliciosa is a much larger plant with deeply split leaf margins and lobes, and it is the species more commonly known as the Swiss Cheese Plant. Monstera adansonii is smaller, with oval leaves perforated by enclosed holes rather than open splits reaching the leaf edge.
My plant's leaves are turning yellow. What is wrong?
Yellowing leaves are most frequently caused by overwatering or poor drainage leading to root stress. Check that the compost is not remaining wet for extended periods and that the pot drains freely. Less commonly, yellowing can result from nutrient deficiency, very low light, or the natural senescence of older lower leaves.
How do I increase humidity for my Monstera adansonii without a humidifier?
Placing the pot on a wide tray filled with pebbles and a small amount of water (ensuring the pot base sits above the waterline) creates a localised zone of higher humidity as the water evaporates. Grouping several plants together also raises ambient moisture. Misting is less reliably effective and can promote fungal issues if done excessively.
Can Monstera adansonii be kept outdoors in the UK?
It can be moved outside to a sheltered, partially shaded spot during the warmer months of summer, once overnight temperatures are reliably above about 15 C. It must be brought back indoors before autumn as it has no frost tolerance and will suffer damage at temperatures below around 10-13 C.