Tree Philodendron

How to care for Tree Philodendron

Light

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum thrives in bright, indirect light and will produce its largest, most deeply lobed leaves under such conditions. It tolerates lower light levels better than many large-leaved aroids, but in deep shade growth slows markedly and new leaves may emerge smaller and less divided. Avoid prolonged direct summer sun through glass, which can scorch the foliage, though a little direct morning sun is generally tolerated.

Watering

Water thoroughly so that moisture reaches the entire root ball, then allow the top 2-3 cm of compost to dry out before watering again. This plant is reasonably forgiving of occasional drought but suffers in consistently waterlogged conditions, which rapidly leads to root rot. Reduce watering frequency during winter when growth slows, but never allow the compost to dry out completely for extended periods.

Soil and potting

Use a well-draining, nutrient-rich aroid compost. A suitable mix can be made from peat-free multipurpose compost combined with perlite and a small proportion of coarse bark chippings to ensure good aeration and drainage. Avoid dense, compacted growing media, as the thick roots require ample oxygen. A slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0 is appropriate.

Feeding

Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser at half to full strength every two to four weeks during the growing season from spring through to early autumn. A formulation with a roughly equal NPK ratio suits general foliage growth, though a slightly higher nitrogen content encourages lush leaf production. Do not feed during winter, as the plant's reduced metabolic activity means excess fertiliser accumulates and may damage roots.

Humidity and temperature

This species originates from warm, humid subtropical environments and grows best when humidity is kept above 50%. In centrally heated homes, where winter humidity often drops well below this, occasional misting, grouping plants together, or placing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles all help. The ideal temperature range is 18-27 C. Plants tolerate brief dips to around 13 C but sustained cold causes stress and can lead to yellowing or blackening of the foliage. Keep away from cold draughts and unheated windowsills in winter.

Repotting

Repot every two to three years in spring, or sooner if roots are visibly circling the base or emerging from drainage holes. Choose a pot only one or two sizes larger than the current container, as an oversized pot retains excess moisture and increases the risk of root rot. Terracotta pots suit this plant well because they allow the compost to breathe and dry more evenly. As the plant matures and develops a visible trunk, it becomes increasingly difficult to repot, and top-dressing with fresh compost is a practical alternative.

Pruning

Pruning is largely limited to the removal of old, yellowing or damaged leaves, which should be cut cleanly at the base of the petiole using sharp, sterile secateurs. Wear gloves during pruning, as the sap contains calcium oxalate crystals that can irritate skin and eyes. The plant does not require routine pruning for shape in the way that some houseplants do, but removing spent leaves keeps the plant tidy and directs energy toward new growth. Do not cut back the growing tip of the main stem.

Is Tree Philodendron toxic?

Common problems

How to propagate

Stem cuttings

Take a cutting that includes at least one node and one leaf, allow the cut end to callous for an hour or two, then place it in moist perlite or a well-draining aroid mix. Provide warmth (22-25 C) and high humidity, keeping the medium just moist until roots develop over several weeks.

Offset division

Mature plants often produce basal offsets or suckers at soil level. These can be carefully separated from the parent plant during repotting, ensuring each division retains its own roots, and potted individually into appropriate compost.

Seed

Fresh seed can be sown on the surface of warm, moist compost and covered with a thin layer of vermiculite, then kept at around 25-27 C with high humidity. Germination is slow and variable, and plants take many years to reach a significant size, making this method impractical for most home growers.

Where Tree Philodendron comes from

Native to southern Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Bolivia.

Story and origins

The genus name Thaumatophyllum is composed of two Greek elements: 'thauma', meaning wonder or marvel, and 'phyllon', meaning leaf. The species epithet 'bipinnatifidum' is Latin and describes the leaf shape: 'bi' meaning twice, 'pinnat' referring to pinnate or feather-like division, and 'fidum' meaning cleft or split, so the full epithet translates roughly as 'twice pinnately cleft', describing the doubly divided lobes of the mature leaf. The former genus name Philodendron, under which this plant was classified for most of its horticultural history, comes from the Greek 'philos' (loving) and 'dendron' (tree), alluding to the climbing or tree-associating habit common in that genus.

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum was first formally described by the German botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott in 1856, based on specimens collected in South America. It became well established in European and North American horticulture during the twentieth century under the name Philodendron selloum, a synonym commemorating the German botanist Friedrich Sellow, who collected plants in South America in the early nineteenth century. The plant gained considerable popularity as an indoor and landscape specimen during the mid-to-late twentieth century, particularly in warmer regions of the United States and Australia, where it is grown outdoors as a low-maintenance garden plant. Its reclassification into Thaumatophyllum in 2018, based on genetic and morphological evidence distinguishing it from true Philodendron species, remains a source of some confusion in the trade, and the old names continue to be widely used by retailers and gardeners alike.

Varieties to know

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum 'Hope'

A compact selection that remains smaller than the species and is particularly popular as a houseplant; sometimes sold under the name 'Hope Philodendron'.

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum 'Glad Hands'

A cultivar noted for its distinctively shaped leaf lobes that are said to resemble outstretched hands; less commonly available than the species.

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum 'Variegatum'

A variegated form with irregular creamy-yellow or white splashes on the foliage; slower growing and considerably rarer than the standard green form.

Fun facts

• In 2018, molecular phylogenetic studies led to Philodendron bipinnatifidum being reclassified into the genus Thaumatophyllum, a change not yet universally reflected in the horticultural trade.
• The name Thaumatophyllum derives from the Greek words 'thauma' (wonder or miracle) and 'phyllon' (leaf), meaning roughly 'wonder leaf', a reference to the extraordinary, deeply divided foliage.
• This species can produce aerial roots from its stem that grow downward into the soil, helping to anchor and support the plant as it develops its trunk-like stem over time.
• Mature plants growing in suitable outdoor climates can produce a spathe-and-spadix inflorescence that generates its own heat through a process called thermogenesis, attracting insect pollinators.
• Despite being commonly called 'Split-leaf Philodendron', this species is entirely distinct from Monstera deliciosa, which shares that common name; the two belong to different genera and the leaf fenestrations form differently.

Tree Philodendron FAQ