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Xanadu Philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu)

Xanadu Philodendron

Thaumatophyllum xanadu · Araceae

Easy Toxic to pets

Thaumatophyllum xanadu, commonly called the Xanadu philodendron, is a compact, clump-forming aroid native to Brazil that was long classified as Philodendron xanadu before being reclassified in 2018. It produces deeply lobed, glossy green leaves on sturdy stems, forming a tidy mound typically reaching 60 to 90 cm in height and spread indoors. Its manageable size and tolerance of indoor conditions have made it a popular houseplant across the world since its commercial introduction in Australia during the 1980s.

☀ Light
Bright indirect light; tolerates moderate shade
💧 Water
Allow top 2 to 3 cm of soil to dry between waterings
🌡 Temp
16 to 27 C
💦 Humidity
Moderate to high; 50 to 70% preferred
🌿 Soil
Well-draining, peat-free aroid mix
🍽 Feeding
Balanced liquid fertiliser monthly in spring and summer

Photo: Piwaiwaka / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

How to care for Xanadu Philodendron

Light

Thaumatophyllum xanadu thrives in bright, indirect light and will produce the largest, most deeply lobed leaves under these conditions. It tolerates moderate shade reasonably well, making it suitable for interior positions a metre or two from a window, though growth will slow and leaf lobing may be less pronounced. Direct summer sun through glass should be avoided as it can scorch the foliage, but a few hours of gentle morning sun is generally tolerated.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top 2 to 3 cm of compost has dried out, then allow excess to drain freely from the pot. Overwatering is the most common cause of decline; the plant is susceptible to root rot if left sitting in waterlogged compost. Reduce watering frequency in autumn and winter when growth slows, but never allow the root ball to dry out completely. Use room-temperature water and, where possible, allow tap water to stand overnight to off-gas chlorine.

Soil and potting

A well-draining, aerated aroid mix is ideal. A suitable blend combines two parts peat-free multi-purpose compost with one part perlite and one part orchid bark or coarse horticultural grit. Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot while still retaining enough moisture to sustain growth. Avoid heavy, compacted composts that hold excessive moisture around the roots.

Feeding

Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser at half the recommended strength once a month during the active growing season from spring through to early autumn. A fertiliser with an NPK ratio of around 20-20-20 or one formulated for foliage plants is suitable. Do not feed during winter when the plant is resting, as unused nutrients accumulate in the soil and can cause root burn.

Humidity and temperature

This plant prefers moderate to high humidity of 50 to 70% but is more tolerant of typical indoor humidity than many tropical aroids. In dry interiors, particularly during winter when central heating is running, misting the leaves occasionally, placing the pot on a pebble tray filled with water, or using a room humidifier can help. Keep the plant away from cold draughts, radiators, and air-conditioning units. It prefers temperatures between 16 and 27 C and will suffer damage if exposed to temperatures below 10 C for any prolonged period.

Repotting

Repot every two to three years in spring, or sooner if roots are visibly emerging from the drainage holes or circling the base of the pot. Choose a new container only one pot size larger, as an overly large pot increases the risk of waterlogging. Use fresh aroid compost and water well after repotting. As the plant matures it forms a dense clump with a woody base, so handle it carefully to avoid snapping stems.

Pruning

Minimal pruning is required. Remove any yellowing, dead, or damaged leaves by cutting the petiole cleanly at its base using sterile scissors or a sharp blade. Avoid pulling leaves off, as this can damage the main stem. Light tidying throughout the year is sufficient to keep the plant looking neat. If the plant becomes too large for its space, stems can be removed at the base, but the overall clumping form is best preserved by minimal intervention.

Is Xanadu Philodendron toxic?

Pets: Toxic. Thaumatophyllum xanadu contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to dogs and cats according to the ASPCA. Ingestion causes oral irritation, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. Keep the plant out of reach of all household pets.
People: The same calcium oxalate crystals cause skin and mucous membrane irritation in humans. Contact with sap may cause skin irritation or a rash; wear gloves when pruning or repotting and wash hands thoroughly afterwards. Ingestion causes mouth and throat burning and is not recommended.

Common problems

Yellowing leaves, particularly lower leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering or waterlogged compost leading to root stress or early root rot  Fix: Check the root zone and allow the compost to dry appropriately between waterings. Improve drainage and, if root rot is found, remove affected roots and repot into fresh, well-draining compost.
Brown leaf tips and edges
Likely cause: Low humidity, underwatering, or fluoride and salt build-up from tap water or over-fertilising  Fix: Increase ambient humidity, ensure consistent watering, and flush the soil periodically with plain water to remove accumulated salts. Switch to filtered or rainwater if possible.
Pale or washed-out leaf colour
Likely cause: Too much direct sunlight causing bleaching, or nutrient deficiency particularly of nitrogen  Fix: Move the plant to a position with bright indirect rather than direct light, and resume a regular feeding regime during the growing season.
Leggy growth with widely spaced, smaller leaves
Likely cause: Insufficient light  Fix: Move the plant closer to a bright window or supplement with a grow light. Improved light levels should encourage more compact growth and better-lobed leaves.
Wilting despite moist soil
Likely cause: Root rot caused by prolonged overwatering preventing water and nutrient uptake  Fix: Unpot the plant, inspect roots, cut away any black or mushy sections, dust with sulphur or cinnamon, and repot into fresh, dry compost. Withhold water for several days.
Small crawling or flying insects on leaves or in compost
Likely cause: Fungus gnats, spider mites, or mealybugs, common in warm, dry or consistently moist conditions  Fix: For fungus gnats, allow the surface compost to dry out and use sticky yellow traps or a neem-drench. Treat mealybugs with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud and follow up with neem oil spray. For spider mites, increase humidity and apply an insecticidal soap or neem oil solution.

How to propagate

Division

At repotting time in spring, separate offsets or distinct clumps from the parent plant, ensuring each division has a healthy root system and at least two or three stems. Pot each division into fresh aroid compost and keep it warm and humid while it establishes.

Stem cuttings

Take a stem cutting that includes at least one node and, ideally, one or two leaves, and allow the cut end to callous for a few hours. Place the cutting in moist perlite, sphagnum moss, or water and maintain warmth and humidity until roots of 2 to 3 cm develop before potting on.

Where Xanadu Philodendron comes from

Native to Brazil South, Paraguay.

Story and origins

The genus name Thaumatophyllum derives from the Greek words 'thauma', meaning wonder or miracle, and 'phyllon', meaning leaf, a reference to the remarkable lobed or divided foliage characteristic of the genus. The species epithet 'xanadu' is an allusion to the legendary, idyllic realm of Xanadu, itself derived from Shangdu, the summer capital of Kublai Khan's Yuan dynasty in China, and popularised in English through Samuel Taylor Coleridge's 1816 poem 'Kubla Khan'. The name was applied by the Australian nursery that patented the plant, intended to evoke an exotic, lush paradise suitable for a plant of this attractive appearance.

Thaumatophyllum xanadu was first brought to wider horticultural attention through its commercial release by the House Plants of Australia nursery in Perth, Western Australia, during the 1980s, where it was patented under the cultivar name 'Winterbourn'. For a considerable period, the plant's wild origins were disputed and it was thought by some to be a nursery-raised hybrid or selection. Botanical investigation eventually confirmed that it originates from Brazil, where it grows as a terrestrial plant in seasonally dry to moist forests. Its taxonomic home was revised in 2018 when a major molecular study led by Eduardo Gonçalves and colleagues transferred several large-leafed species out of Philodendron and into the resurrected genus Thaumatophyllum, placing xanadu alongside species such as T. bipinnatifidum. The plant remains one of the best-selling foliage houseplants worldwide.

Varieties to know

Thaumatophyllum xanadu 'Winterbourn'

The original cultivar name used in Australia before the plant became widely known as Xanadu; some nurseries still sell plants under this name, and it is botanically the same plant.

Thaumatophyllum xanadu 'Golden Xanadu'

A cultivar with yellowish-green to golden-toned foliage rather than the standard deep green; requires slightly more light to maintain its colouration.

Fun facts

Xanadu Philodendron FAQ

Is Thaumatophyllum xanadu the same as Philodendron xanadu?
Yes, they are the same plant. Philodendron xanadu was the accepted name for many years, but in 2018 it was reclassified into the genus Thaumatophyllum following a molecular phylogenetic review. Many nurseries and retailers still use the old name, so both names refer to the same species.
How big does a Xanadu philodendron get indoors?
Indoors, Thaumatophyllum xanadu typically reaches 60 to 90 cm in both height and spread at maturity. With ideal conditions it can occasionally exceed 1 metre, but it generally remains compact compared to many other aroids, which makes it well-suited to average home and office environments.
Why are my Xanadu's leaves not deeply lobed?
Young or juvenile leaves tend to be less lobed than mature ones; deep lobing develops as the plant and individual leaves mature. Insufficient light can also reduce lobing. Moving the plant to a brighter position with indirect light should encourage more characteristically divided foliage on new growth.
How often should I water my Xanadu philodendron?
Rather than following a fixed schedule, water when the top 2 to 3 cm of compost has dried out. In a warm, bright position during summer this may be every five to seven days; in winter or a cooler, darker spot it may be every ten to fourteen days. Always check the compost before watering rather than watering on a set routine.
Can a Xanadu philodendron survive in low light?
It is more tolerant of lower light than many tropical houseplants and can survive in moderate shade, but it will grow more slowly, produce smaller and less lobed leaves, and become more susceptible to overwatering-related problems in low light. It will not thrive in very dark corners and a bright, indirectly lit position is always preferable.
Is the Xanadu philodendron safe to keep around children?
The plant contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which cause oral irritation, burning, and swelling if chewed or ingested. While fatalities from ingestion are not documented, it should be kept out of reach of young children who might chew on the leaves. Seek medical advice promptly if a child ingests any part of the plant.
Does the Xanadu philodendron flower indoors?
Flowering indoors is rare but not impossible on a mature plant. If it does flower, it produces a typical aroid inflorescence comprising a spathe and spadix, similar in form to a peace lily flower but less ornamental. The plant is grown primarily for its foliage, and flowering is considered an unusual occurrence in a household setting.